I bought a 1996 Accord ex wagon about a month ago. It ran fine, until one day it started to sound like it was hitting rev limiter at 3000 rpms. I took the car home, parked it for the night, went to start it the next morning and it would just crank. Over that month i replaced, spark plugs/wires, distributor cap and rotor, verified timing, verified spark, replaced the main relay, and ecu. After replacing the ecu it started up, ran fine for that day. The next morning, back to no starting. I'm lost at this point.
Should add, turning the key to the on position, you hear the fuel pump kick on, the cel light comes on then goes off, as does the d4 light.

 

Did you do any work on the car before it started acting up? Also, did this occur after you visited a gas station?

You pretty much verified spark on your car. You haven't verified fuel. There are 2 tests you can try. Remove the snorkel to the throttle body and have an assistant spray starting fluid into the throttle body while you try to start the car. If the engine runs (even poorly) while you are spraying starting fluid, then dies when you stop spraying starting fluid, then you have a fuel delivery problem and need to diagnose further.

The other test is the caveman test, where you assistant hits the gas tank with medium/light force (don't damage the gas tank when hitting) and see if the car starts up. Make sure you are in park and have the emergency brake on for safety purposes.

Another thought is to put in a gallon of gasoline in case your fuel gauge is not working and you ran out of gas.

 

The day before it started happening, I put new plugs in. I have since changed those out, thinking they weren't gapped correctly. I did get gas at a different gas station than normal. I have tried starting the car with ether, it didn't do anything.

 

Did you check for codes? Your accord has an obd2 connector behind the ashtray, where you can plug in a scanner.

Edit: How did you test for spark?

 

Pulled and grounded a plug x4. There aren't any codes, stored or current.

 

It is possible to see a weak spark when the spark plug is outside of the engine, because the spark has more resistance when the cylinder is under high compression.

You can get a spark tester, where you can adjust the gap the spark must jump. There is a KV scale on the tester where you can set the gap and a strong spark will still jump that gap.

The other item you may want to check is the timing on the engine. Get the #1 cylinder to TDC and see if the crankshaft is also at TDC.