No Start after Cleaning IACV and FITV
#1
HELP No Start after Cleaning IACV and FITV
I'm having a no start issue with my Accord after I cleaned the IACV and FITV. The IAC mesh hole was pretty dirty so I sprayed that down throttle body and carb cleaner. The FITV mechanism was dirty so I cleaned that too.
Put it all back together and ran the car once. It had trouble starting but start and run for a little bit. Went inside and then came back out a bit later and started the car. I noticed it was having issues so I tried cycling it again, that's when it wouldn't start. The lights went on but it wasn't even making a clicking sound and I could not hear any crank.
What could be the issue for not starting? Seems switching TPS and MAP sensors is common.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...problem-60709/
It's too dark to check now but I will tomorrow. FYI, I was having an oil leak from the distributor cap, not the seal, so I took that off to clean the inside I need to get a new cap and rotor, since both are slightly worn, and replace that cap gasket. Could that have something to do with the no start?
Right now I'm charging the battery since it was really cold here today. Don't think that's the issue since my crap HF battery said 12.26 volts. Of course it ain't that accurate.
Advice, tips, how-tos, etc. are appreciated.
Put it all back together and ran the car once. It had trouble starting but start and run for a little bit. Went inside and then came back out a bit later and started the car. I noticed it was having issues so I tried cycling it again, that's when it wouldn't start. The lights went on but it wasn't even making a clicking sound and I could not hear any crank.
What could be the issue for not starting? Seems switching TPS and MAP sensors is common.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...problem-60709/
It's too dark to check now but I will tomorrow. FYI, I was having an oil leak from the distributor cap, not the seal, so I took that off to clean the inside I need to get a new cap and rotor, since both are slightly worn, and replace that cap gasket. Could that have something to do with the no start?
Right now I'm charging the battery since it was really cold here today. Don't think that's the issue since my crap HF battery said 12.26 volts. Of course it ain't that accurate.
Advice, tips, how-tos, etc. are appreciated.
Last edited by slickgeek; 01-08-2015 at 12:21 PM.
#2
Your description sounds more like an issue with the starter or the wiring. You may want to test for ~12V on the small blk/wht wire on the starter when you turn the key to the start position. Use the negative battery post for your ground. You may need an assistant to turn the key while you test for voltage.
#4
Any pictures or videos of this Honda so I know exactly where everything is?
#7
A weak tach signal will not cause the starter not to work.
The quickest way to find the starter is to follow the positive battery cable to the starter.
I'd suggest going to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Open the link for online shop manuals. There is a link for the Honda Tech site that has a 94 shop manual for free that is almost identical to your 96 accord. It will show you component locations.
The quickest way to find the starter is to follow the positive battery cable to the starter.
I'd suggest going to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Open the link for online shop manuals. There is a link for the Honda Tech site that has a 94 shop manual for free that is almost identical to your 96 accord. It will show you component locations.
#10
I grounded the black wire on the negative terminal and then did a had someone try to start it while the red lead was connected to the black wire coming from the starter. No blk/wht wire I see on this Accord.
I tested the solenoid wire coming from the battery on the starter. It show 12v.
I tested the solenoid wire coming from the battery on the starter. It show 12v.