No start - Blinking key while cranking
#1
No start - Blinking key while cranking
Hi everyone. I've decided to reach out for some assistance with the diagnosis of my friends 2.3L 2000 accord. The car ran perfect. She dropped her kids off at school, and that was it. It no longer starts. It cranks very strong though.
The car is no longer starting. We've done quite of bit of testing/diagnosis, but I believe we've reached a potential dead end.
I've confirmed we've for spark. It's an orange spark, but jumps 1/4in easily. New cap and rotor, new plugs.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on, but I've got no way to check fuel pressure. I can check for pulse at the injectors if need be.
On the dash, there is a green security light blinking. It blinks while cranking too. I've tested their spare key, it still blinks. At this point, I'm thinking It may be the immobilizer.
If I replaced the immobilizer with a known good one, will the ecm need programmed? It'll be using the same computer, same keys, and a used immobilizer from another accord.
The car is no longer starting. We've done quite of bit of testing/diagnosis, but I believe we've reached a potential dead end.
I've confirmed we've for spark. It's an orange spark, but jumps 1/4in easily. New cap and rotor, new plugs.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on, but I've got no way to check fuel pressure. I can check for pulse at the injectors if need be.
On the dash, there is a green security light blinking. It blinks while cranking too. I've tested their spare key, it still blinks. At this point, I'm thinking It may be the immobilizer.
If I replaced the immobilizer with a known good one, will the ecm need programmed? It'll be using the same computer, same keys, and a used immobilizer from another accord.
#2
Has the battery been tested?
How are the battery connections?
Low battery voltage can cause what you're describing.
The Immobilizer Logic System is part of the PCM. You can read more about it in this other thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-accord-59686/
How are the battery connections?
Low battery voltage can cause what you're describing.
The Immobilizer Logic System is part of the PCM. You can read more about it in this other thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-accord-59686/
#4
I was able to locate a service manual for the car. Just looking reading the trouble shooting steps points that I may have been in the correct direction with the immobilizer. I don't see anything regarding a need to program new the ecm to recognize the new part, so that makes me happy.
I didn't expect any programming needing to be done. It's simply a reader for rfid/transponder keys, nothing fancy. I'm going to look into replacing this over the week end. Ill let you guys know what I find.
I'm going to be pissed if I find out both keys went bad... lol
I didn't expect any programming needing to be done. It's simply a reader for rfid/transponder keys, nothing fancy. I'm going to look into replacing this over the week end. Ill let you guys know what I find.
I'm going to be pissed if I find out both keys went bad... lol
#5
Before you replace anything, get the Immobilizer Brake Code from the dealer. It may resolve the communication issue.
See this other thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-60482/page5/
See this other thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-60482/page5/
#8
Some might even give you the e-brake code over the phone, worth a try. A friend at work was having a similar issue (2000 Coupe), I told him to get the code. He had to call three before they gave it to him over the phone.
Once you have the code, you can do a google search on how to enter it....pretty simple.
He entered the code, car cranked right up. Then the funny part is he never had another issue with it. He drove it for another year before he sold it for something else. It was like the PCM just forgot the code and had to be reminded of what it was
Good luck
Once you have the code, you can do a google search on how to enter it....pretty simple.
He entered the code, car cranked right up. Then the funny part is he never had another issue with it. He drove it for another year before he sold it for something else. It was like the PCM just forgot the code and had to be reminded of what it was
Good luck
#9
My friend called and got the code over the phone. I'm going to run to out local pick and pull and grab an immobilizer. They are fairly cheap for used stuff out there. $5-10 typically for the part.
My friend and her family live 30 minutes out from me, and the yard is on the way.
Considering pulling some of the wafers out of the cylinder. The key is getting worn. I just pulled wafers out of a friend's civic couple weeks ago. That key wouldn't turn at all lol.
My friend and her family live 30 minutes out from me, and the yard is on the way.
Considering pulling some of the wafers out of the cylinder. The key is getting worn. I just pulled wafers out of a friend's civic couple weeks ago. That key wouldn't turn at all lol.
#10
I was able to grab an immobilizer last night.... But we never installed it.
We went to install it, but figured we'd get the car back to the house and start it with the immobilizer brake code. The car started.
After getting it to the house and letting it idle for a little bit, we turned it off. It started normally after that.
We checked it again in an hour, it started normally.
This morning, it started fine.
Anyone want to buy an immobilizer? lol
We went to install it, but figured we'd get the car back to the house and start it with the immobilizer brake code. The car started.
After getting it to the house and letting it idle for a little bit, we turned it off. It started normally after that.
We checked it again in an hour, it started normally.
This morning, it started fine.
Anyone want to buy an immobilizer? lol