NO start No spark in DIY says to put a test light on the neg. term of coil. This is a 94 Accord LX 2.2. I would like to know what I'm looking for. I hooked up the coil to the 4 prong plug that plugs into the coil and checked the voltage at the black/yellow wire at the icm, and the green wire at the icm. Both are giving me 11-12volts with ignition on. So now I want to check the cranking voltage and would like to do it with a test light, since buddies are not readily available. Though MR Haynes manual does not indicate positive and negative wires.

Please help.

 

Green wire is the negative terminal of the coil.

Looking at the wiring diagram, you will have to back probe that wire with one side of the test light and ground the other end of the test light.

 

Thanks, I will give that a shot. I appreciate your help.

 

I'm probably doing something wrong here so I'll ask. I have a 12v test light. It's not LED. When I put the probe in the back side of the green wire and turn on the ignition it turns on. Then when I attempt to start it just glows like it did when I turned the ignition on. Same thing with the green wire on the icm. Do I need to get an LED test light or is this telling me something that I'm not reading?

Thanks again.

 

Your test light should work just fine.

I looked at the wiring diagram again, and Desert's instructions don't make sense to me. It looks like your test light will stay on the whole time according to the wiring diagram.

Here is what I would do.

To test the ICM, back-probe the green and blk/yel wire. Hook the test light up across those two wires. With the ignition switch on, the light should be turned off. When you try to start the car, the light should flash. If it flashes, then the ICM is working and you should replace the coil.

 

Ok, Thanks. I will give that a try, and report the results. I appreciate it.

 

Ok I put a back probe on the black/yellow and the green attached them and put the test light on. First time with the wires disconnected from the icm. Second time with the wires attached to the icm. I back probed on the coil side. Light cam on with ignition on and stayed on during cranking, both times. Should I do this again at the icm? to see what happens?

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html...

hope this helps

 

Thanks Desert for that link. Through systematic diagnosis I've determined that it's the Ignitor. Now the Delima. My local Oreilly's says they have two ignitors for a TEC ignition. One is 49.95 and looks just like the one I took out except it doesn't have the mounting plate on the back. No big deal it's the same foot print and two screws to take off the mountiing plate on the back, but he needs to know the distributor number for that one. Then he says there's another that's 199.99. He interchanged that with the number off of the ignitor that I took in from the car. I guess my question is if I have to pay 199 for the one he interchanged from my ignitor number then fine. But this other one for 50 bucks looks exactly like the one I took in also, except it didn't have the metal plate that screws onto the distributor. Why the large discrepancy.

 

Need help with the above post. Is there a difference? Is the ICM different than the ignitor? The number the guy cross referenced is the icm number for 199.99. But the part that he brought out (in stock) looked just like the icm, it just didn't have the mounting plate for attaching to the distributor. And it was 49.99. Are we talking about the same thing?