Will the jacks stands be enough?


So I decided tomorrow morning I'm going to give replacing the rear pads a shot. I may also replace the rotors too. I have a garage, but I do not have jack stands or ramps. Because a ramp won't help in this situation, I'll be buying jack stands (some where tomorrow). I'm looking at the stands as an investment. Then I'll be buying pads.

I'll be going to a Pep-Boys or Strauss tomorrow. Any suggestions on Pads and Rotors?

oh, are then any specific tools I will need?

 

Jack stands are important. Jacks can collapse, & drop the car on you. Not very often, not very likely, but it's just silly to take that chance when you've got your armsaround the brakes.

When the car is up on the stands, try to rock & shake it first, to make sure it's solid before going underneath.

In the picture I posted, there's a littlebolt on each rotor, #43. That's usually stuck, corroded. The trick is to get one of those impact drivers that's like a screwdriver you hit the end with a hammer. Soak the bolt with PB Blaster for awhile first.

If you have to drill out that little bolt, it's not really needed. It's there for convenience on the assembly line. The lug nuts are what REALLY holds the brake disk to the hub.

 

I agree with Jim ...quality jack stands are important. We are talking life and death if you are under the car. I use both (hold the car up with jackstands and a jack). This way a failure in one can be caught by another. Hydraulic jacks use "hydraulics"....seals can easily fail.

I havent been a fan of many of the "cheap" chinese made tools as of late. Its one thing if you buy a cheap chinese made screwdriver and it fails. It's a whole different story if your cheap chinese made jackstand collapses because the steel was cheap or the welds werent done correctly. I would buy a chinese made jack but i wouldnt get under the car unless i had quality jackstands. You may be able to buy an old set used (when they were thicker steel and made in the good ole USA)

Also, I agree with Jim on the little bolt being corroded. I've had to drill mine out in the past because i messed up the screw. Make sure you PB Blast it (or liquid wrench), let it soak, and use something with torque to break it loose (not a standard screwdriver). The impact driver is a good option. If you dont have an impact driver, you can do the following: I used to have a small 1/4 inch socket adapter that fit variousbits (phillips, etc). I would finda large tight fitting bit, put it in the adapter and (while pressingit on thescrew firmly) use a 1/4 inch rachet to apply the torque needed to break and turn the screw.

 

oh yea, when you decide to replace the "front" rotors, make sure to use quality rotors (ie, genuine honda, bremco or something good). Because of the labor involved with "machine pressing" them in, you dont want to replace them again.

Also, when the shop did mine, Ipurchased and had them install new wheel bearings while they had the rotors off. At the time, the car had over 90,000 miles soIfigured they would eventually need to be replaced. Why pay for labor twice.