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  #21  
Old 03-30-2009 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mugenpaolo
1) would it be a good idea to drain and refill again after i already refilled with new synthetic oil for this transition and had the engine run at idle for a couple of minutes?
Don't bother. No harm with the residual petroleum oil. What do you suppose "Semi-Synthetic" is? Almost all synthetic oil has some mineral oil in it to cause the rubber seals to swell similar to petroleum oil.

The seals shrinking was common for early synthetic oils. Like in the mid-1970s when Mobil-1 first came out. They've probably reformulated it a dozen times since then.
 
  #22  
Old 03-30-2009 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
Automatic? I'd change it a lot more often than 65k.

Manual? Yeah, change it. I changed the oil in my 2003 5-speed at about 60k miles. It was a little dirty, so maybe I'll go 50k instead.
Yes, it's AUTO.

I'll change it soon then. How much do you reckon I will need and how often afterwards should I do it?
 
  #23  
Old 03-31-2009 | 07:32 AM
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Not sure about the 7th-gen auto, but maybe 3 quarts? Check the owner's manual. If I remember I'll look in my Helm book.

On an automatic the torque converter doesn't drain, so you can only drain about 1/3 of the total fluid. If it comes out clean, then maybe change it every 30k or 40k miles.

If it's dirty, then drive around a day or 2 & change it again. And again until it's clean. Then every 30k instead of 40 or 50.
 
  #24  
Old 04-08-2009 | 08:27 PM
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Amazon has a great price on Purolator PureONE. $10 for 2.

You think it is worth it to stock up on these? I was thinking to order 20 of them for $102 including taxes and free shipping.

So easy to change my own oil I don't see myself going to a garage ever again.



And I'm also thinking of ordering some fluids from HandaAccessories. Brake and power steering. Also was going to order like 10 Honda ATF to change the fluid and have extra in case it is dirty and I need to change again. Should I just drain out and replace the 3 qts every 1 year or something to keep it clean after that?
 

Last edited by ZionsWrath; 04-08-2009 at 08:30 PM.
  #25  
Old 04-09-2009 | 07:42 AM
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The ideal thing is change "often enough" so it doesn't get very dirty in the first place. Hard to tell how often that is, because you don't really see much dirt on the dipstick.

1) If it drains out really clean then you don't need to repeat. So then you've wasted money buying all that ATF right now.
2) If it drains out dirty, then you WILL want to do it again after driving around. So you order more ATF & maybe duplicate shipping charges.

Your choice. Either way the consequences aren't very serious.

If the ATF drains out clean at 65k miles, GREAT, then you've found an acceptable interval. IF it drains out dirty, then you have to use some judgement for the interval (after you get it clean).
 

Last edited by JimBlake; 04-09-2009 at 07:52 AM.
  #26  
Old 04-10-2009 | 09:12 AM
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I just was in Autozone, and they had the Purolator Pure One for my 97 Accord and I think the price was 5$ and some change. Have you checked the price at your local auto parts store to give you an idea how much your really saving on price/tax.

I used the PPO filter in the past, never had any issues.
 
  #27  
Old 04-19-2009 | 09:39 AM
rkpatt
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I used PPO or WIX(=NAPA Gold) . I usually use the WIX oversized filter 51344 on my car.
You can buy all types of WIX filters and very good prices at www.filter1.com . Free shipping on $50+ .
 
  #28  
Old 04-20-2009 | 10:58 AM
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I never have problems with FRAM.....
 
  #29  
Old 04-21-2009 | 08:51 PM
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FRAM is horrid. FYI the STP filters are made by the same peeps that make the Bosch/Mobil 1 filters
 
  #30  
Old 04-22-2009 | 12:58 AM
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there isn't much price difference between FRAM or STP
then I might as well stick to STP just be on the safe side
 
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