sorry about that desert...it is a 92 accord lx 4-door w/air

 

you can disconnect the cooler line to drain more fluid but you got to have the engine running and it still might not drain completely but it will drain a lot more than just normal draining
as for the capacity i need to know year and model


Also: This works great to pump out all the old fluid as you add new. Vehicle must be in park, transmission hot, (at least 10 miles driving) and engine at idle. Measure quart marks on a five gallon bucket and as a quart pumps out - add a quart. This works great since ALL fluid is pumped out including the converter.

Note: Some vehicles pump out fluid faster than you can add it. If/When this happens - shut the engine off until you can catch up.

 

Just changed my oil last night actually. I use 10w-30 Mobil 1. It's the best out there. Unfortunately it is about $6-$7 a quart. But if u really want the BEST oil, Redline 10w-30. You'll only find it at import performance shops. It's like 10 bux a bottle.

 

I use straight up dino oil and change every 5K or so.......

 

same here, castrol 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer. no need for additives or overly expensive oil, esp in mine when im pushing 187k.

(1992 accord LX)

 

Another oil to consider is Shell Rotella T 15/40. Yes, it is an oil specified for diesels, but works just fine in any gasoline engines too. I know of fleet truck owners who buy in bulk (obviously) and have used in their cars, including Hondas, for years. Because of it's higher viscosity, it's probably better suited to sun belt states. I use it in my antique cars where straight 30 was originally specified.

 

thats why is designed for diesel engines rather than small gasoline engines, If I put that weight in my honda Id have a god awful valve rattle and sluggish engine because the oil is too thick. the manufacturer gives specific oil weights for a reason.

 

Hmmm... I've owned a 2.5 Acura Legend since new in 1987. It's now got 207K miles and the motor runs as sweetly as ever. Great compression, zero valve bounce, zero lifter noise when cold. As mileage grew, I've progressed from 10/30, 10/40, 15/40 and for the past 50K with 20/50. Have you actually tried a 10/40 or 15/40 oil and experienced the symptoms you describe, or are those expectations in your head? Test & measure! The manufacturer's specs are for new cars. They are in the business of selling new cars. If we all kept out cars for 500K miles, they wouldn't be happy! Just things to ponder!

 

yes I have tried different weight oils, nothing over 10w-40 tho. my engine was very sluggish and I had a valve rattle. (92 accord LX just over 187K) and that type of thinking is the reason people have to put higher weights with later miles. stick with the same weight from the start and the oil eyelets stay the same diameter and dont get foreced wider to where you have to use the higher viscosity oil. I use 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer, just like the manufacturer recommends.

 

A lot of good input here BUT,

None of it is going to change me from Phillips 66 Trop-Artic Synthetic Blend 5W-30 or 10W-30 with the added benefit of the reasonable price of $1.68 at Wally World.

Nice try Guys.