Overheating and boiling coolant sound from engine, little oil from drain block plug
#11
Thank you all for your help.
My radiator cap seems to be fine. The cap was fairly new which came with new radiator installed 2 years ago. When the engine is overheating, I can see the excess coolant flowing into reservoir raising the level way up 2-3 inches more.If reservoir is full, it could spill out. I always check the level of coolant in reservoir before and after (I marked it with pen).
BTW, does anybody know what temp gauge is at 35% (1/3 needle) or midpoint in terms of fahrenheit rougly? My infared thermometer indicated the temp on cylinder block/head was 242 F. On ECT switch B upper hose nozzle area was 206 F; on ECT switch A at thermostat nozzle was 185 F.Should my radiator fan come on if engine cylinder head/block is over 200 F or this 200 F has to be on simply switch A thermostat nozzle area?
I guess I still have to look into head gasket problem when I more time.
Thanks, and again appreciated your help.
My radiator cap seems to be fine. The cap was fairly new which came with new radiator installed 2 years ago. When the engine is overheating, I can see the excess coolant flowing into reservoir raising the level way up 2-3 inches more.If reservoir is full, it could spill out. I always check the level of coolant in reservoir before and after (I marked it with pen).
BTW, does anybody know what temp gauge is at 35% (1/3 needle) or midpoint in terms of fahrenheit rougly? My infared thermometer indicated the temp on cylinder block/head was 242 F. On ECT switch B upper hose nozzle area was 206 F; on ECT switch A at thermostat nozzle was 185 F.Should my radiator fan come on if engine cylinder head/block is over 200 F or this 200 F has to be on simply switch A thermostat nozzle area?
I guess I still have to look into head gasket problem when I more time.
Thanks, and again appreciated your help.
#12
Today, I drove my car for 20 mins on a hot day at low speed. I stopped my car in the garage allow to idle. Then I checked under the hood, I saw no radiator fan on or coolant boiling sound. But moment I stopped the engine, my radiator fan kicked on and off randomly for 5 mins. During fan was on I unplugged the ECT switch A by the thermostat to measure resistance continuity. The resistance was still high max 1 K ohms (no change from cold engine). But my fan keep running on and off. It did same thing for ECT switch B, too. I heard coolant boiling sound and raised its level in reservoir almost to the top of mouth. Is this normal? Is my ECT switch still working? I guess when engine was running, coolant was circulating. But moment the engine was off, hot coolant sat at one place and boiling sound could be heard. This might have triggered radiator fan on?
The coolant at lower hose and upper hose was hot. So, I can determined that my thermostat is working, right?
Thanks and appreciated your help on this.
The coolant at lower hose and upper hose was hot. So, I can determined that my thermostat is working, right?
Thanks and appreciated your help on this.
#13
Today, I drove my car for 20 mins on a hot day at low speed. I stopped my car in the garage allow to idle. Then I checked under the hood, I saw no radiator fan on or coolant boiling sound. But moment I stopped the engine, my radiator fan kicked on and off randomly for 5 mins. During fan was on I unplugged the ECT switch A by the thermostat to measure resistance continuity. The resistance was still high max 1 K ohms (no change from cold engine). But my fan keep running on and off. It did same thing for ECT switch B, too. I heard coolant boiling sound and raised its level in reservoir almost to the top of mouth. Is this normal? Is my ECT switch still working? I guess when engine was running, coolant was circulating. But moment the engine was off, hot coolant sat at one place and boiling sound could be heard. This might have triggered radiator fan on?
The coolant at lower hose and upper hose was hot. So, I can determined that my thermostat is working, right?
Thanks and appreciated your help on this.
The coolant at lower hose and upper hose was hot. So, I can determined that my thermostat is working, right?
Thanks and appreciated your help on this.
#14
Donda - please put you car info in you signature line.....
Next just me but there is onlt one ECT - it is the two wire switch under the dist. Thermo A is for the fans when the car is running - it is the green connector on the t-stat housing where the lower hose connects to the engine. Thermo B is in the housing where the upper hose connects. It controls the "fan" when the engine is off.
Pull the green connector from thermo a, stick a paperclip or wire into the wire side of the connector and turn the key to on/pos II - do BOTH fans run?
Next just me but there is onlt one ECT - it is the two wire switch under the dist. Thermo A is for the fans when the car is running - it is the green connector on the t-stat housing where the lower hose connects to the engine. Thermo B is in the housing where the upper hose connects. It controls the "fan" when the engine is off.
Pull the green connector from thermo a, stick a paperclip or wire into the wire side of the connector and turn the key to on/pos II - do BOTH fans run?
#15
My fan motors are working great when jumped with paper clip. I checked the resistance for ECT switch A at thermostat area. It did not read 0 ohms or continuity but somewhere 1500 ohms when overheating no fans come on. I never had a chance to check resisitance when fan was on because fan (both) came on only very short time like 30 sec.and went off. I continue the engine idling until coolant start boiling in reservoir and measured same resistance around 1500 ohms. Then I stopped the engine and radiator fan only came on for few minutes, then stopped. Both lower and upper hose were hot.
By the way, to check/replace thermostat at the rear, I have to remove big fat tube air intake tube. This has 2 mini tubes hooked to 1) vavle cover end 2) EVAP (EGR) system. Is it ok to remove these tubes? Do I have to disconnect battery? Haynes manual does not say in detail.
Thanks again. Need your help!
By the way, to check/replace thermostat at the rear, I have to remove big fat tube air intake tube. This has 2 mini tubes hooked to 1) vavle cover end 2) EVAP (EGR) system. Is it ok to remove these tubes? Do I have to disconnect battery? Haynes manual does not say in detail.
Thanks again. Need your help!
#16
Yes remove those tubes and the big intake tube....much more room to work.
It is always a good idea to disconnect the battery....not sure but some of these you will need the code for the radio once you connect the battery back up.
Also, please bleed the cooling system properly. Air trapped in the system can cause ALL kinds of issues.
It is always a good idea to disconnect the battery....not sure but some of these you will need the code for the radio once you connect the battery back up.
Also, please bleed the cooling system properly. Air trapped in the system can cause ALL kinds of issues.
#17
Thanks for your help.
Yesterday, I removed the ECT switch A over by thermostat for radiator fan. I put in hot water and tested its resistance/ continuity. When my thermometer reached 100C or 212 F, my meter showed about 740 ohms only. Should this be going to zero ohms? or that 740 ohms is ok working good condition? I guess I may have to compare with the new parts.
Thanks again!
Yesterday, I removed the ECT switch A over by thermostat for radiator fan. I put in hot water and tested its resistance/ continuity. When my thermometer reached 100C or 212 F, my meter showed about 740 ohms only. Should this be going to zero ohms? or that 740 ohms is ok working good condition? I guess I may have to compare with the new parts.
Thanks again!
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