Interesting i will defiantly bring this up with my father and neighbor to see what other testers they have we have quite a few and i will defiantly bring up the head gasket with them as well.Is their anyway to find out if its a blown head other than just ripping it out and having it tested and bored/shaved down along with the block checked?

 

Priority one is to get the engine running, figuring out the head gasket will be the next step and will be easier with a functioning engine.

I strongly suggest using the spark plug tester that I have listed for the reasons already stated. Happy Hunting and keep us informed.

 

1.The water that came out The only time when trying to start it after it first broke down and never have seen it again.was about the size of two quarters sitting inside the end of my exhaust pipe.Did not drip out anywhere as I fully investigated it.This was After I tried to start it twice with no start.It did not blow out of the exhaust just sat their after i stopped cranking my car over to try and start it.The white smoke was almost like a small steam puff and after seeing this twice i Wheeled to the back of my car Checked under my car checked the tip of the exhaust pipe (saw the two quarter size amounts of fluid) n looked down to see if any was on the ground and was none on the ground?The Fluid had no color no odor?Only odor was a Carbon like smell as if u smell when u have a clogged catlack converter.

My accord NEVER shot out oil I was trying to explain how my honda 91 CRX when it blew its second head acted. It was leaking oil like a siv always and did have the blue smoke It had a blown head gasket along with a CRACKED block.And still started and drove for 6 months only 2 cylinders before i fixed it with a new 1.6 engine !I was trying to compare the different diagnosis as this situation is starting to not seem like the head at all? as my accord has compression and spark? no leaks.sorry didn't mean to confuse u with that :/

back to the accord 94 Lx the problem car
2.Made no sounds at all I turned my car off was at half way on temp gauge.Went into store came out of store and wouldn't start.then noticed the little white puffs from my exhaust pipe so tried again to crank again little white puffs from exhaust. then went to investigate finding the quarter size liquid laying in the middle tip of the tail pipe.(inside tail pipe)with none on the ground or around the area?

3.It ran poorly for about 2 days after the thermostat change and after attempt to change water pump.Changed radiator and still ran poorly.Was not a huge big deference thought maybe it was because I put the cheep gas n which was 3.07 at the time was great deal..But at lights it would idle a little rough and the temp would go up (no water pump replaced yet still n back seat) so id turn on the heater it would cool bk down to half way (never got over quarter from half way)then when light would change.car would drop back down to under half way n heater was turned off.The car would take off fine with power.Car stared fine.Only issue was when it idleded a little rough.No back fires.No funny smells.No hot engine smells.no smoke.

4.Did not get worse before it went out stayed same

5.color is gold :P ? color maters how?so is exhaust pipe its gold.

 

First of all some water coming out of the exhaust is normal. If we are talking about more than a small drizzle for no more than 5 mins then there might be a problem regarding that.

Regarding the head gasket, it sounds like there is a very small leak somewhere that only is evident every now and then. This would explain the compression being on spec. However it is also a sign of a failing head gasket. White smoke is a result of coolant burning. If your radiator only has water in it then I would think its oil that you mistook as coolant.

Stuck valves and timing are back burner items. Lets figure out where your spark is at. Then if the spark is actually sufficient then we bust out the timing light.

 

Do you have access to a timing light?

 

Just joking around about the color haha

Um sounds like your thermostat that you replaced was either put in wrong is faulty. That or the temp sensor. but thats why your temp is going up at stop lights.... that and your water pump really does need to be replaced. Did you bleed the system correctly?

 

I would check for engine codes. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum on how to do this.

When you did the compression test, did you have the gas pedal pushed all the way down? Your readings are towards the low side.

I usually unplug the distributor and pull the fuel pump fuse when I do my compression tests.

What items have you replaced since the car stopped starting?

 

UPdate:
ok ,so after checking everything possible AGAIN including the Main Relay and re-soldering it because it looked like..BEEP! today we decided to pull the head off AGAIN because seriously what else could it be ,but a head issue!ITS GETTING ALL SPARK IT NEEDS AND FLUIDS! and now Their IS Water and oil in the head FINALLY WE KNOW!.Since the car is only a 4 cylinder I'm assuming the head damage is pretty bad since my crx ran like no ones business with TWO blown cylinders only getting 60-80 compression(with strait antifreeze and 2wired hot fans) ? but Kinda contemplating it being that bad since the accord is getting 138-140 in ALL cylinders and no smoke on trying to start which almost does(ALMOST STARTS BUT STILL IS MISSING SOMETHING)I'm assuming due to it not having compression enough but seriously with 138-140 it should at least start right?No oil or water leaking bellow to ground from engine or anywhere on the car still (thanks to card board box under it for the last 5 days we know this)It also had a code of 12 which is EGR ,Im pretty sure wouldn't cause it to not crank?So now Its time to send my lil head off to the shop down the street to some good buddies $260 for complete restoration and $60 to check if its warped needs re-serfusing ,shaving ext..(Kinda a oxi moron since it ALWAYS does for me anyways)my car never got to red line or stayed quarter to half way long at all but who knows what the previous chick that had it did??

ok so Questions
again this is about the*94 accord* even tho I brought up my beloved missed totaled CRX baby,which last year NOV threw 1,500 into it restored engine tranny all its guts to be totaled may 9th to some azz in a ford f-150 who didn't think he needed to stop at a STOP SIGN!Striking my lil CRX while i was driving 55-45 n yea leaving me in a wheel chair may 9th to now with multiple 2 heel fractures, multiple spine herniation and o yes he will get his soon as I settle the bass turd :"( ok ok nuff rambling lil bitter still sorry..:"( missing my CRX baby of 10 years

*Car still does not crank over has all Spark it needs getting Fuel Exct..Is this due to the head solely or some other issue. Im have to address when i get the head back from the shop?Everyone saying along with me it should still fire(start)Sound like crap sputter smoke whatever but still fire?With out compression it cant start but it is getting 138-140 in all cylinders?

*Code 12 EGR.Is this a concern to not start the car?
I do know in my CRX I made my own cover from some metal from ace hardware lolz and it ran Great didn't leak!never even warped as I suspected it would.(before the new engine change)In the CRX but as Stated before. I know nothing of this Accord mechanics really. I like the civic and CRX's ,but have 4 tiny chihuahuas that need a back seat and Wanted a bigger car since I almost died in my CRX! and this car the accord seemed ok at the time..It's a nice car just not very familiar with its mechanics as I am with Civic and CRX engines especially 89-91 (CARBERATED CRX/Civics)(confused on where everything's placement wised, the different parts on the accord,Electicsof it. Who knew 4 years or so made such a difference)Its pretty much all the same KINDA... I'm finding out slowly..

*My engine Block is not leaking so should i have concern for it?Obviously after i get the head out we will Do some tests to see if it has some vissable cracks,Clean it up and what not.(which test does everyone else use/do?)

*Since this was white smoke Seen two times only. The day it shut down.The hydraulic lock w/ large amount of water in cylinder still is in now? So,How will I know my crankshaft is Damaged?(head has water and oil in it now).Really got Investigative today started to crank it about 40 times so with all this movement in the engine it finally showed up Along with some Severe pressure in the top radiator hose!

*Are the Alternatives to the Aluminum heads sets worth it?Is it better for them to warp and shut your car down before you crack your block or something? Obviously,Honda made them aluminum for some reason right?or no?

Thanks for your help everyone!and putting up with all my rambulings .I'm laied up in bed feeling pretty good for the next month till I can hopefully walk!Will Try and get some photos on here of my Refurbished head when i get the cash.I love how they look so Pretty,sparkly and new and clean!CAR mechanics is pretty cool to me. I look at it as almost working on a human u got you engine your heart,your radiator your lungs,hoses wires veins and electrics your nervious system ext..And u got your diagnosing and reasoning for them in all.It's Pretty cool I'm actually planning to go bk to school to get certified soon...sometime in future.

 

*Car still does not crank over has all Spark it needs getting Fuel Exct
Response: W/ water in the cylinders and low compression starting would be iffy IMO, but no one can say for certain.

Code 12 EGR.Is this a concern to not start the car?
Response: Agree that EGR code is unlikely to interfere w/ starting.

*My engine Block is not leaking so should i have concern for it?
Response: I would examine as closely as possible before reinstalling head, but block is usually undamaged even w/ overheating.

*So,How will I know my crankshaft is Damaged?
Response: No way to be certain save pulling the oil pan and examining all the rod caps for distress. Even this might miss bearing damage. If engine turned over good w/o knocking, that's promising.

*Are the Alternatives to the Aluminum heads sets worth it?
Response: No experience w/ anything other than honda head.

Suggest using OEM or FelPro gasket set.

I used a couple of thin wood blocks laid on cylinder head ends over the gasket to "land" the cylinder head. It's easy to bounce the cylinder head on your new gasket and damage w/o these! Then one at a time lift cylinder head remove block and lower head onto guide pins. This is especially important if doing this unassisted as weight and reach distance to land the head makes it an awkward effort unless you are very strong (I'm not!).

Before installing head, clean cylinder head bolt holes threads w/ thread chaser (see youtube for how to make one from an old cylinder head bolt), lube bolts w/ motor oil, and carefully follow bolt torque sequence.

good luck

 

I agree with texashonda, but Toni, please please please stop saying that your car won't crank. When you say that you are telling us mechanics and mechanically minded people that your engine won't turn over on the starter. Your engine cranks fine but will not fire and run. there is a big difference between the two.