Hey Guys,

After doing as much searching as possible, I've found an incredible amount of information on the fix for the P1457 code. I've got a 1998 Accord EX-V6 and after doing a whole bunch of basic repairs and maintenance, I am left with only two codes. I have the following:

P1457 - Evap Control system leak detected (canister)
P0401 - EGR Recirculation flow insufficient detected

So after a good deal of searching, I found the TSB on the P1457 Code. It appears that the most common fix is replacement of the Evap Control canister vent shut valve. Worst case scenario appears to be failure of the PCM due to some other parts failing. My questions are:

Is replacement of this shut valve worth a shot, or should I have the car diagnosed by an experienced mechanic and/or a Honda dealer? I want to get out of this as cheaply as possible.

I also found one person on another board mention that it cured his EGR restriction code, which is another issue of mine. I have a new EGR valve, but have not gotten around to clearing the ports. I am curious though, is there any possible connection between these two codes?

Any and all comments are appreciated! You guys (and this site as a whole) have already helped me out a great deal and I am grateful.



For those coming across this thread with the same problem as me and looking for solutions, here are the best links I found:

Large discussion covering every possible solution to the problem and the fixes>

http://forum.mpt.org/messages/9/6923.html?1115332443

The link to the TSB can be found on this page>

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...?threadid=1914

 

Clean the EGR ports. Replace the valve/canister. I just replaced the valve/canister on my 4cyl. Got the parts for less than $80 I believe from www.majestichonda.com

 

The ports have been cleaned. They were almost completely clogged, I have never seen anything like it. The amount of build-up was surprising, to say the least.

The pipe kit was previously installed, which I only found out once everything was taken apart. Apparently the fix isn't really a fix... So this is the second time in this cars life that the EGR ports have been thoroughly cleaned.

Right now, the check engine is light is off. I've driven about 10 miles so far without the other codes showing up yet. We'll see how long it lasts. If the 1457 comes back, I'll have to tackle that.

 

I pulled a P1457 a few months ago, re-tightened the gas cap and the code went away. Since then I replaced the gas cap because I stripped the old one, a brand new Honda OEM one is only $16 from TASAuto.

 

After doing a great deal of research (posted some links) as well as a discussion with a few guys at the dealer yesterday, I can say with confidence, this code is not set off because of a gas gap issue - something I was initially told. There is a different code for that, possibly 1456? This one is caused by something that has to do the pressurized system of the evaporative canister/valve/controls. There are two TSB's on thiscode, both of which describe a diagnosis and fix.

 

Right - P1456 isEVAP leak in the tank. One possible reason is the cap.

P1457 is a leak in the canister. On mine (98 4-cyl AT) it WAS the vent-shut valve. When I removed the valve & energized it across the battery terminals, it didnt even click. It was corroded shut.

If your vent-shut valve works, then you might have to go thru the troubleshooting procedure. About 8 pages in the Helm book...
Possible problems are loose vacuum hoses, bad pressure sensor, couple other solenoid valves,or even a crack in the canister case.

 

Yeah, I am having a hard time deciding what I should do.

I am thinking it almost makes sense on this to have the Honda dealer do it, as they charge a $100 diagnostic fee, but that goes towards the repair. The shut valve is about $60, but I don't want to blindly replace it, and I am not even sure I can get the screws off due to corrosion. I am thinking that for $100 I can get a diagnosis of what is wrong and it might be easier/cheaper than me trying totacklethis myself.

Then again, it looks like at least half of all cases if not more end up being that shut valve... Hmmm..

 

With tools & jumper wires, you can check the vent-shut valve yourself. Couple bucks will buy enough wire to run power from battery back to the valve (to avoid removing it). Then just unplug the wire & apply power to the valve. Listen for it to click.

Like I said, in MY case the valve didnt evenclick, so I didnt need to actually check whether it opened & closed.(YMMV...)

 

This is where I got my parts





213970
008
1

VALVE, CANISTER VENT SHUT (MADE IN MEXICO) $39.49





34653
009
1
FILTER, CANISTER


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...L+PIPE+%281%29

 

Thanks Jim, I will run some power straight to the valve and see what happens, as soon as it breaks 40 degrees around here.

BlkCurrantKord, thanks for the links and the info! Those are the lowest prices I have found anywhere for those parts, by a large magin. Hopefully I can get the screws off of the shut valve, if indeed that is the problem. Any tips on easier access or getting the screws off? Were both parts bad on your car?

While I'm at it, can this problem cause any sort of driveability issues?