All,
I have a 2003 Accord EX 4 cylinder automatic current setting in a local repair shop, diagnosis was needs two VTCsolenoids replaced.
Symptoms:
Car overheated when in heavy traffic at idle for sometime. Started to stutter and sputter at slow speeds this weekend. Ended up stalling it at stop sign, after running fine for 20 minute drive to store. Went from one store to another, less than .25 mile and then it stalled. Was able to turn over fine and even idle ok for a bit, then you could hear the chug chug. Once running it was operating fine, just at slow speeds she would stall out on me. While waiting for tow truck I started it again and she would run ok for about a minute and then you could hear the stall coming.

I've got $90 wrapped in it for diagnosis and oil change. Should I spend another $60 to have it shipped to another shop for a second opinion. Price is just about $600 for the repair and diagnosis at the shop it is now. Other shop is a little less, but would be about the same at $600 after the tow for second opinion.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Jason

 

So the car is inoperable / undrivable right now? How many miles are on the car, have there ever been any notable incidents involving the car? (Accidents, Floods ect) Most importantly Is there a Check Engine Light??

Its kinda tough to diagnose this since it is at the shop. Since it is your car I would pay the shop what you owe them and leave. My guess is the car will probably run fine when it is cold.

This can help help us pinpoint the issue. I don't know where my repair manual is at the moment but If you are mechanically inclined in the slightest and have a basic tool / socket set I don't think this would be a hard fix.

Roader or Poorman can probably give you more in-depth procedures.

If you are set on having a shop do this then I suggest checking out this site; Mechanics Search | Car Talk - search your area for a reputable shop. Many people write reviews about certain shops and it can help you avoid getting ripped off.

 

How bad did it overheat?

 

It sounds like there may be more than one problem going here. There seems to be an overheating problem and a possible problem with the variable valve timing control (VTC) system.

Can you get and post the trouble code(s) from the mechanic which may be leading him to diagnosis possibly the VTC oil control solenoid valve and some other solenoid/part needing replacement? Also, ask the mechanic the specific name of the parts he would be replacing. There is the VTC oil control solenoid valve, a rocker arm oil control solenoid (aka VTEC solenoid valve), a rocker arm oil pressure switch (aka VTEC oil pressure switch), etc.

Ask whether he knows if the timing chain and timing is okay.

 

Its hard for us to diagnose without you having the car to do some tests for us. It could be multiple problems. You coulda cracked something when it overheated and the crack opens up more when it heats up. And sucks air or loses compression. Metal expands with heat. Or it could be something dumb like a thermostat sensor. I had a full size Chevy truck that had a bad thermo sensor and it would run fine cold but when it heated up it misses like crazy and would stall all the time. Where do u live Maby some one close can help. It sounds like a project that may require some tear down and multiple hands on tests. You need to Help us with symptoms so we can help you. The overheating worries me. I can't see the vtec system affecting all that but idk. Some codes might help us

 

VTEC is not exactly the same as VTC. Although the OP's engine should be a K24, this link for the K20A explains VTEC and VTC components. As a sidenote: A K20 is very similar to a K24 though.

Honda's K20A Engine

The OP may have more than one problem.

 

How bad did it overheat: Gauge almost pegged out, and I am sure it did sometimes. Again this would happen maybe one a week if I was stopped in traffic, say around 4 minutes of 10 mph or slower.

Car has about 177K miles, only accident was deer vs. car. Put dent in hood which is still there, but insurance said nothing looked wrong mechanically. No flooding, etc.

Check engine light was on - don't have the code. It was on as last oil change and usually it gets cleared then but this time did not. Oil light did come on and I added some oil, so clearly we have an oil consumption issue.

Got a call from the shop....issue is timing chain is stretched, and have bent valves to the tune of several thousand dollars...estimate coming. (either way it's going to be way over my available credit) He said it was because the car ran with too little oil.

Currently going to have it towed to another shop recommended by my boss to get a second look. They said over the phone they had never heard of bent valves with my symptoms. Sorry folks I have zero experience with cars, so I hope this is helpful.
Thanks.