Yeah, that's why I said I'm just going to sell it. As soon as I get it back from the Dealership today, I'll post it to sell. It's the 4 cyl.

 

My response was to your quesiton on what I think you should do. The only way to reduce the repair cost is to find a less expensive part or less expensive labor.

To save on the part, used OEM parts definitely save money. For reducing labor cost, any shop can swap out a starter. You could look for shops with less expensive labor. Doing the work yourself is free labor. Sounds like you are not a DIY for car repairs, and a lot of people aren't DIYers.

The other factor is your current vehicle needs. If you need to purchase a replacement vehicle, look at the car payment cost, etc. The ~$1000 repair cost vs a $400 dollar car payement takes 2.5 months of no repairs on your accord to break even. The risk is if your car has other problems after the repair where the repairs start adding up. It really is a personal choice on the best course of action for you.

 

If I looked up the correct Honda starter(Genuine Honda 31200-R40-A01) Starter Motor Assembly
for your car it is $274.99 on Amazon. It was/is an actual Honda brand starter. From the TSB for your code what is the starter doing that is causing the code. If it pulls too many amps on start up why doesn't the dealer check that. Any brand starter could do that. I think there are more items that could cause the code produced on start up than the starter. Battery cables and anything that makes the engine hard to rotate the crank shaft. That TSB was written for a almost new car,

 

Does anyone have new information in regards to this thread. I’m having similar issues. I replaced my starter 6 months ago. A few months after that I started having intermittent issues with difficulty starting and limp mode. The code was this infamous p0339. I bought an “oem” crank position sensor from eBay, replaced it, and then the car wouldn’t start at all. Assuming it was a fake and needed relearned anyway I had a legitimate $158 cp sensor put in by mechanic and relearned. 1 week later same issue and same code. The mechanic isn’t sure what to do. The starter put on came from oreillys so he might change that to an oem. He mentioned getting the car to Honda for a software update. This is getting expensive and we are just guessing. Any new mode of thought on this.

 

The original poster decided to sell the vehicle, so you likely won't get the conclusion on this vehicle.

I'm not sure what your mechanic already tested on your car. Testing the battery for charge and capacity would be the first item. Next would be testing the capacity of the battery cable to the starter and the negative battery cable when cranking the engine. You would do a voltage drop test. You want to make sure the cables can carry max current to run the starter.

The TSB is linked above from Honda on this specific issue, so updating the software and relearning the crank sensor signal is likely warranted. It is possible you go through this and will have to replace the starter.

 

Thanks for the reply. I will go there next. After reading across this site I’m skeptical about continuing to throwing $ at this when I’m not seeing definitive fix

 

PAhonda
Ive seen your advice on this issue on a lot of threads over a lot of years. Do you have a sense of what was most commonly the solution? A lot of us had this problem and code after replacing the starter. From what I can tell we all replaced the cp sensor to no avail and a lot had starter replaced with oem starter and still had same problem? In your opinion has there been a fix at all or at least most common?

 

I usually frame my response as what can possibly cause the issue on a vehicle, then advise some troubleshooting suggestions first before replacing any parts. A P0339 means the engine computer detected an intermittent interruption in the CKP signal and does not mean to replace the CKP sensor. For P0339, the CKP sensor picks up a signal from a spinning plate with some notches on the edge. That sensor generates a signal sent through the wiring to the engine computer. The engine computer software analyzes the signal and counts how many "bad" signals came from the CKP sensor. Once the number of bad signals reaches a preset number (say 10), the P0339 code is set by the engine computer.

The truth is a problem along the system can cause the P0339 to appear. The Honda TSB addresses the software part as a common issue and has the engine computer relearn the "good" CKP signal. It doesn't mean something else isn't the real cause of the interrupted signal. The different P0339 threads are possibly or likey caused by different problems.

The challenge for someone not doing the work themselves is to find a shop to diagnose the problem using a scanner and/or an oscillocope to look at the actual CKP signal. Good independent shops can do this work and might do a better job than a dealership. You'll have to pay an hourly diagnostic rate and realize you could pay for multiple diagnostic hours just to figure out the problem. You'll need to find a good shop that can do the diagnostics and the Honda software updates.

I hope this makes sense.

 

The problem is people don't take the threads to a conclusion. You have a low or no voltage to the engine control module. The original TSB was for a basically new car. Now you have older cars with many things that cause this bad battery, battery cables, starter, engine itself, wires going to engine control module and the parts mentioned in the TSB. If you find a solution please post the results. I went through this on my 2014 Accord High fuel pump pressure code. No conclusions on the web, On your car I would do a starter draw test before anything else and look at the negative cables. All were bad on my Accord. The trans one was green. The rest were rusted where they mounted to the body,

 

Appreciate both responses