Please help** Rough Idle after Vtech Solenoid replacement
#1
Please help** Rough Idle after Vtech Solenoid replacement
Hey guys. long time reader. new to posting. I need some REAL Accord expertise as I cant seem to figure this one out.
(sorry for the long read in advance. Ill try to keep it brief)
2008 Honda Accord EXL V6
So there was oil leaking somewhere around the Vtec solenoid and the oil was dripping into the alternator, so I had to get the Vtec solenoid replaced.
- mechanic ordered the Vtec solenoid from honda and replaced it.
- Right after the replacement, I picked up my car and noticed that on a cold start and when I come to a complete stop, the car's idle is very rough. It has a bass rumbling type vibration. It was idling hard enough for my buddy to sit in the car and ask "why is your car twerking" (lol) at a red light.
Mechanic asked that I bring it back to clean the throttle body, (which he didnt remove, but instead he cleaned the TB while it was still installed) and then he tried to do a (half ***) idle relearn procedure.
- both of these did not work. while driving the next day, the engine light came on and started flashing, so I had to drop it back off.
- car was with him for a week. he finally called me and said he THINKS he got it. He said he has to re-adjust some valves and that was it.
- went to pickup the car and noticed it was still idling rough. still felt the bassy rumbling vibrations but they was very low. it was idling much better than before, but def still not back to norm.
- it still has not thrown another engine light as yet, but the idle is still off. it annoys the hell out of me everytime I drive this car. Im even noticing a slight change in how the engine performs as well.
Once again, what was done:
- Vtec Solenoid replaced.
- (mechanic said) valves were adjusted
- I also had 6 new spark plugs installed, but no help.
- Throttle Body was cleaned (while installed on car)
- mechanic said he also let the car sit for an hour idling. no change.
Does anyone know what could be causing this all of a sudden? I know for a fact that the change is very noticeable. its like night and day. Its not idling high or anything, its warmed up and sits around 650/700RPM but its just vibrating. Rough idling.
Could the replacement of the Solenoid have anything to do with it? Is there anything (basic) I can do/check on my own at home to try and solve this issue? Steps for me to re-try the idle relearn procedure myself? ( I dont have a scanner though).
Car has been sitting overnight with both pos and neg battery cables disconnected. Im up early ready to go outside and work on this car so Ill keep my eyes on this forum. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
(sorry for the long read in advance. Ill try to keep it brief)
2008 Honda Accord EXL V6
So there was oil leaking somewhere around the Vtec solenoid and the oil was dripping into the alternator, so I had to get the Vtec solenoid replaced.
- mechanic ordered the Vtec solenoid from honda and replaced it.
- Right after the replacement, I picked up my car and noticed that on a cold start and when I come to a complete stop, the car's idle is very rough. It has a bass rumbling type vibration. It was idling hard enough for my buddy to sit in the car and ask "why is your car twerking" (lol) at a red light.
Mechanic asked that I bring it back to clean the throttle body, (which he didnt remove, but instead he cleaned the TB while it was still installed) and then he tried to do a (half ***) idle relearn procedure.
- both of these did not work. while driving the next day, the engine light came on and started flashing, so I had to drop it back off.
- car was with him for a week. he finally called me and said he THINKS he got it. He said he has to re-adjust some valves and that was it.
- went to pickup the car and noticed it was still idling rough. still felt the bassy rumbling vibrations but they was very low. it was idling much better than before, but def still not back to norm.
- it still has not thrown another engine light as yet, but the idle is still off. it annoys the hell out of me everytime I drive this car. Im even noticing a slight change in how the engine performs as well.
Once again, what was done:
- Vtec Solenoid replaced.
- (mechanic said) valves were adjusted
- I also had 6 new spark plugs installed, but no help.
- Throttle Body was cleaned (while installed on car)
- mechanic said he also let the car sit for an hour idling. no change.
Does anyone know what could be causing this all of a sudden? I know for a fact that the change is very noticeable. its like night and day. Its not idling high or anything, its warmed up and sits around 650/700RPM but its just vibrating. Rough idling.
Could the replacement of the Solenoid have anything to do with it? Is there anything (basic) I can do/check on my own at home to try and solve this issue? Steps for me to re-try the idle relearn procedure myself? ( I dont have a scanner though).
Car has been sitting overnight with both pos and neg battery cables disconnected. Im up early ready to go outside and work on this car so Ill keep my eyes on this forum. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
#2
Please help** Rough Idle after Vtech Solenoid replacement
Hey guys. long time reader. new to posting. I need some REAL Accord expertise as I cant seem to figure this one out.
(sorry for the long read in advance. Ill try to keep it brief)
2008 Honda Accord EXL V6
So there was oil leaking somewhere around the Vtec solenoid and the oil was dripping into the alternator, so I had to get the Vtec solenoid replaced.
- mechanic ordered the Vtec solenoid from honda and replaced it.
- Right after the replacement, I picked up my car and noticed that on a cold start and when I come to a complete stop, the car's idle is very rough. It has a bass rumbling type vibration. It was idling hard enough for my buddy to sit in the car and ask "why is your car twerking" (lol) at a red light.
Mechanic asked that I bring it back to clean the throttle body, (which he didnt remove, but instead he cleaned the TB while it was still installed) and then he tried to do a (half ***) idle relearn procedure.
- both of these did not work. while driving the next day, the engine light came on and started flashing, so I had to drop it back off.
- car was with him for a week. he finally called me and said he THINKS he got it. He said he has to re-adjust some valves and that was it.
- went to pickup the car and noticed it was still idling rough. still felt the bassy rumbling vibrations but they was very low. it was idling much better than before, but def still not back to norm.
- it still has not thrown another engine light as yet, but the idle is still off. it annoys the hell out of me everytime I drive this car. Im even noticing a slight change in how the engine performs as well.
Once again, what was done:
- Vtec Solenoid replaced.
- (mechanic said) valves were adjusted
- I also had 6 new spark plugs installed, but no help.
- Throttle Body was cleaned (while installed on car)
- mechanic said he also let the car sit for an hour idling. no change.
Does anyone know what could be causing this all of a sudden? I know for a fact that the change is very noticeable. its like night and day. Its not idling high or anything, its warmed up and sits around 650/700RPM but its just vibrating. Rough idling.
Could the replacement of the Solenoid have anything to do with it? Is there anything (basic) I can do/check on my own at home to try and solve this issue? Steps for me to re-try the idle relearn procedure myself? ( I dont have a scanner though).
Car has been sitting overnight with both pos and neg battery cables disconnected. Im up early ready to go outside and work on this car so Ill keep my eyes on this forum. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
(sorry for the long read in advance. Ill try to keep it brief)
2008 Honda Accord EXL V6
So there was oil leaking somewhere around the Vtec solenoid and the oil was dripping into the alternator, so I had to get the Vtec solenoid replaced.
- mechanic ordered the Vtec solenoid from honda and replaced it.
- Right after the replacement, I picked up my car and noticed that on a cold start and when I come to a complete stop, the car's idle is very rough. It has a bass rumbling type vibration. It was idling hard enough for my buddy to sit in the car and ask "why is your car twerking" (lol) at a red light.
Mechanic asked that I bring it back to clean the throttle body, (which he didnt remove, but instead he cleaned the TB while it was still installed) and then he tried to do a (half ***) idle relearn procedure.
- both of these did not work. while driving the next day, the engine light came on and started flashing, so I had to drop it back off.
- car was with him for a week. he finally called me and said he THINKS he got it. He said he has to re-adjust some valves and that was it.
- went to pickup the car and noticed it was still idling rough. still felt the bassy rumbling vibrations but they was very low. it was idling much better than before, but def still not back to norm.
- it still has not thrown another engine light as yet, but the idle is still off. it annoys the hell out of me everytime I drive this car. Im even noticing a slight change in how the engine performs as well.
Once again, what was done:
- Vtec Solenoid replaced.
- (mechanic said) valves were adjusted
- I also had 6 new spark plugs installed, but no help.
- Throttle Body was cleaned (while installed on car)
- mechanic said he also let the car sit for an hour idling. no change.
Does anyone know what could be causing this all of a sudden? I know for a fact that the change is very noticeable. its like night and day. Its not idling high or anything, its warmed up and sits around 650/700RPM but its just vibrating. Rough idling.
Could the replacement of the Solenoid have anything to do with it? Is there anything (basic) I can do/check on my own at home to try and solve this issue? Steps for me to re-try the idle relearn procedure myself? ( I dont have a scanner though).
Car has been sitting overnight with both pos and neg battery cables disconnected. Im up early ready to go outside and work on this car so Ill keep my eyes on this forum. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.
#4
There was no code before the vtec solenoid. Actually before the solenoid replacement, everything was absolutely perfect. The rough idle and flashing engine light came after the solenoid was replaced.
And I apologize but to be honest I have no clue bud. Not sure what the code was was the CEL came on and I have no clue about the part number used for the replacement. All I did was take the car to the mechanic and he got the new solenoid from Honda and installed it.
Next time I will now document all details. You live you learn I guess.
#5
You may want to call the shop and ask them what code you had. Also find out if they have the old part. Replacement looks to be pretty simple, but you may want to inspect the electrical connections to the vtec.
#6
Any tips on how to check the electrical connections to the Vtec? something I can do myself or it is something Id have to get a mech to look at?
#7
A quick check would be to unplug them and look at the pins for any corrosion or maybe oil inside. Definitely something you can do. Almost all honda electrical connectors have a plastic tab you have to push to release a clip while you pull the connector.
I'd recommend purchasing a shop manual for your accord. You can buy a pdf of the manual on automanualsource.com for around $22 and is worth the investment.
I'd recommend purchasing a shop manual for your accord. You can buy a pdf of the manual on automanualsource.com for around $22 and is worth the investment.
#8
A quick check would be to unplug them and look at the pins for any corrosion or maybe oil inside. Definitely something you can do. Almost all honda electrical connectors have a plastic tab you have to push to release a clip while you pull the connector.
I'd recommend purchasing a shop manual for your accord. You can buy a pdf of the manual on automanualsource.com for around $22 and is worth the investment.
I'd recommend purchasing a shop manual for your accord. You can buy a pdf of the manual on automanualsource.com for around $22 and is worth the investment.
#10
So wouldnt it throw a code again by now even he has cleared it a week ago? Or are you saying he could of deliberately deactivated it somehow so it doesnt come on period?