Poor/difficult steering, serious vibrations.
#1
Poor/difficult steering, serious vibrations.
(Honda Accord 1993 LX, 4-cyl 2.2L)
When I'm in idle the steering wheel vibrates, heavily. The vibration is caused by idle, I'm just not sure this much vibration should transfer to the steering wheel. You can actually see it vibrating up and down. When in reverse the car vibrates heavily like an earthquake, both sound and movement.
In addition as I'm driving the wheel is making small turns to the left and right repeatedly, oscillating (left, right, left, right, left, right, etcetera). On one instance I felt it drive towards one side. I think that's called pulling?
The wheel is also hard to turn and wheel recovery after a turn is slightly less "snappy" compared to a 1995 Accord I have. With the 1995 Accord the wheel moves smoothly and it feels like a dream. I come home fatigued after driving the 1993 Accord.
I noticed the black plastic cover that goes between wheel and dashboard (I think it's called Steering Column Cover) is loose. In that the lower and upper parts still seem to be attached but they move together and almost rotate around the steering column. The ignition switch where the key goes in is also loose. You can literally stick the key inside and move it and the thing moves the SCC around.
Tomorrow I think I'm going to take the thing apart and see if there's a reason why this is. Anything come to mind for any of you guys?
When I'm in idle the steering wheel vibrates, heavily. The vibration is caused by idle, I'm just not sure this much vibration should transfer to the steering wheel. You can actually see it vibrating up and down. When in reverse the car vibrates heavily like an earthquake, both sound and movement.
In addition as I'm driving the wheel is making small turns to the left and right repeatedly, oscillating (left, right, left, right, left, right, etcetera). On one instance I felt it drive towards one side. I think that's called pulling?
The wheel is also hard to turn and wheel recovery after a turn is slightly less "snappy" compared to a 1995 Accord I have. With the 1995 Accord the wheel moves smoothly and it feels like a dream. I come home fatigued after driving the 1993 Accord.
I noticed the black plastic cover that goes between wheel and dashboard (I think it's called Steering Column Cover) is loose. In that the lower and upper parts still seem to be attached but they move together and almost rotate around the steering column. The ignition switch where the key goes in is also loose. You can literally stick the key inside and move it and the thing moves the SCC around.
Tomorrow I think I'm going to take the thing apart and see if there's a reason why this is. Anything come to mind for any of you guys?
#2
Sounds like the front end needs maintenance. For wheel vibration at idle and fwd/rev noise check engine mounts. For other symptoms: left/right shimmy/vibration, heavy steering inspect tie-rod ends, struts, suspension bushing and bal joints, then power steering pump fluid/belt. If your shimmy gets worse when braking need new/resurfaced brake rotors as well.
So, I'd take to in for a general front end suspension and steering inspection and get a written estimate. Take it into 2-3 shops and see if you get 2 to agree on issues and maybe price. Good luck.
So, I'd take to in for a general front end suspension and steering inspection and get a written estimate. Take it into 2-3 shops and see if you get 2 to agree on issues and maybe price. Good luck.
#4
The steering wheel vibrating at idle would meant that the vibration is coming from the engine.
I would inspect the motor mounts. You can try to grab the top of the engine and shake it to see if one of the rubber bushings on the motor mounts is torn.
As for the plastic steering wheel cover and the ignition switch, you can remove the cover and tighten down the bolts holding the ignition switch to the steering wheel. They may look like rivets, because it is a security feature on accords. They are threaded bolts underneath. There should be three (I think) screws holding the plastic piece of the steering wheel cover from the bottom.
I would inspect the motor mounts. You can try to grab the top of the engine and shake it to see if one of the rubber bushings on the motor mounts is torn.
As for the plastic steering wheel cover and the ignition switch, you can remove the cover and tighten down the bolts holding the ignition switch to the steering wheel. They may look like rivets, because it is a security feature on accords. They are threaded bolts underneath. There should be three (I think) screws holding the plastic piece of the steering wheel cover from the bottom.
#5
So I checked the power steering fluid today.
I did this test where I turn the wheels left and right without hitting stops at idle and I watched the reservoir and the fluid was bubbling. I'm not sure if that's normal if that means there's air in the lines.
Before I did anything, I drove it to a driveway which is slightly elevated before checking the PS fluid. It's at least half an inch below the minimum line and since this was an incline with the front wheels higher than the rear, the fluids should have been on an incline as well. Thus if on a level surface, I estimate the fluid would actually be an inch below the minimum line since the minimum line is towards the rear of the PS fluid reservoir.
Could the low fluid explain the poor steering? I don't get the point of the minimum line though. It's not like all of the fluid is used at once right? Or am I wrong?
Also should I just put the new Honda brand PS fluid in there right now or should I use a turkey baster to discard the old fluid, bleed the lines by turning the wheel, suck out the remaining, then put the new fluid in, bleed the lines by turning the wheel and continue until no more air bubbles come, topping the fluid at the end?
I did this test where I turn the wheels left and right without hitting stops at idle and I watched the reservoir and the fluid was bubbling. I'm not sure if that's normal if that means there's air in the lines.
Before I did anything, I drove it to a driveway which is slightly elevated before checking the PS fluid. It's at least half an inch below the minimum line and since this was an incline with the front wheels higher than the rear, the fluids should have been on an incline as well. Thus if on a level surface, I estimate the fluid would actually be an inch below the minimum line since the minimum line is towards the rear of the PS fluid reservoir.
Could the low fluid explain the poor steering? I don't get the point of the minimum line though. It's not like all of the fluid is used at once right? Or am I wrong?
Also should I just put the new Honda brand PS fluid in there right now or should I use a turkey baster to discard the old fluid, bleed the lines by turning the wheel, suck out the remaining, then put the new fluid in, bleed the lines by turning the wheel and continue until no more air bubbles come, topping the fluid at the end?
Last edited by MessAround; 06-18-2011 at 08:55 PM.
#7
I'll go level tomorrow and check it.
But a thought just crossed my mind. What if the previous owner put crap PS fluids in there and messed up the whole system?
What if they used a PS fluid not meant for Hondas?
I'm actually scared to put the OEM Honda PS fluid in there now because I'm not sure what's in there and not certain about what happens if different brands/types mix.
Is there a way to purge all of the fluid that's in the system so I can start all over with OEM Honda PS fluid?
But a thought just crossed my mind. What if the previous owner put crap PS fluids in there and messed up the whole system?
What if they used a PS fluid not meant for Hondas?
I'm actually scared to put the OEM Honda PS fluid in there now because I'm not sure what's in there and not certain about what happens if different brands/types mix.
Is there a way to purge all of the fluid that's in the system so I can start all over with OEM Honda PS fluid?
#9
You can disconnect the upper hose to the PS reservoir (the return hose). Put the return hose into a container, then start the engine. Allow fluid to drain out. When no fluid comes out, shut off the engine. Reattach upper hose, then fill up reservoir to the full line. Start the car and turn the steering wheel back and forth. Add fluid when the level gets low. There will be some air bubbles that have to work out of the lines. Once the PS fluid stops frothing, top off reservoir to the full line.
When draining, have rags under the reservoir so you don't get fluid on the paint. If PS fluid is like brake fluid, it can damage the paint.
When draining, have rags under the reservoir so you don't get fluid on the paint. If PS fluid is like brake fluid, it can damage the paint.
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