Poor MPG
#1
Poor MPG
Hey all,
I have a 96 accord ex v6. I just put a whole new front end on b/c the ball joint was thrashed. I figured since id been getting such poor mileage from a bad alignment this would help.
Unfortunately this was not the case. I am consistently getting 18-20mpg City. I hear claims of consistent 25+ city and i don't even get 25 highway!
My plugs are decent, air filter could be replaced, but other than that i don't know what it could be. I do recall that my engine does tick and after doing some research that sounds like my valves need adjusted? Would that lead to an increase in my mpg?
Also, any tips on getting better MPG in general would be awesome (except those dumb "keep your foot off the gas pedal" b/c that's obvious!) Thanks!
-Noah
I have a 96 accord ex v6. I just put a whole new front end on b/c the ball joint was thrashed. I figured since id been getting such poor mileage from a bad alignment this would help.
Unfortunately this was not the case. I am consistently getting 18-20mpg City. I hear claims of consistent 25+ city and i don't even get 25 highway!
My plugs are decent, air filter could be replaced, but other than that i don't know what it could be. I do recall that my engine does tick and after doing some research that sounds like my valves need adjusted? Would that lead to an increase in my mpg?
Also, any tips on getting better MPG in general would be awesome (except those dumb "keep your foot off the gas pedal" b/c that's obvious!) Thanks!
-Noah
#2
Dragging brakes can decrease gas mileage. Jack up the back of the car and see if you can easily spin the tire with little resistance. Do the same with the front.
You can try this on an open road with no/little traffic. Drive the car at 40 mph, put it in neutral, and allow it to coast to a stop (don't touch the brake pad). Once stopped, touch the rotors to see if they are hot.
You might want to inspect the fuel lines for leaks or rust. There was a post on here where the fuel lines were "sweating" gas due to rust. You will probably have to do this with the main relay jumped, so the system is under pressure.
You can try this on an open road with no/little traffic. Drive the car at 40 mph, put it in neutral, and allow it to coast to a stop (don't touch the brake pad). Once stopped, touch the rotors to see if they are hot.
You might want to inspect the fuel lines for leaks or rust. There was a post on here where the fuel lines were "sweating" gas due to rust. You will probably have to do this with the main relay jumped, so the system is under pressure.
#3
I've never heard of fuel lines sweating..But i do know i had to replace my rear brake lines b/c of them rotting out, and the fuel lines are getting bad..That just blows my mind actually. I'll try the coasting thing. As far as the valves go, should i just leave them be? Do they affect my effeciancy?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
I had that happen to me (95 Integra). The fuel and brake lines under the car were corroding, and the fuel supply line started leaking first. It was bizarre because it didn't just leak - it kinda oozed out like the steel tube was porous. For awhile it evaporated as fast as it could leak, so it was difficult to find the source of the gasoline smell. Parking outdoors you could barely smell it, but in the garage it was clear.
#5
Some additional possibilities for poor fuel economy:
1) Ruptured Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)- pull vacuum reference line and sniff. If you smell gasoline, the FPR should be replaced.
2) O2 Sensor. - If it's over 100K miles, it should be replaced. This can make a difference w/o the Check Engine Light setting a code.
3) Leaking Fuel Injector - If any under hood work has been done, it's possible to misalign a fuel injector and old oring seal to get a leak. Sniff and feel for leaks around top end of each injector.
4) Fuel tank leak (check for cracks, dents, and leaks). Visual and sniffing.
5) Vacuum leak - check PCV system for correct function and brake booster vacuum line for leaks. A large leak from these systems would artificially lean mixture and ECU would compensate w/ added fuel. A check of Long Term Fuel Trim would also disclose this type of fault.
good luck
1) Ruptured Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)- pull vacuum reference line and sniff. If you smell gasoline, the FPR should be replaced.
2) O2 Sensor. - If it's over 100K miles, it should be replaced. This can make a difference w/o the Check Engine Light setting a code.
3) Leaking Fuel Injector - If any under hood work has been done, it's possible to misalign a fuel injector and old oring seal to get a leak. Sniff and feel for leaks around top end of each injector.
4) Fuel tank leak (check for cracks, dents, and leaks). Visual and sniffing.
5) Vacuum leak - check PCV system for correct function and brake booster vacuum line for leaks. A large leak from these systems would artificially lean mixture and ECU would compensate w/ added fuel. A check of Long Term Fuel Trim would also disclose this type of fault.
good luck
#6
Okay, I did the brake test thing. Brakes were hot as ****. Even after i left it to cool for a couple mins after driving...Don't think they are hanging up though, after i jacekd up and easily spinned them.
I believe the fact that the top of my gas tank and sending unit is ROTTED out is where all my fuel is. Lines to get replaced by a shop is $200. Not so bad, but they won't replace anything without replacing the sending unit and possibly the tank too
So thank you all for helping, Now i have to decide if money in this car is worth it. Mine as well buy a cheap beater
-Noah
I believe the fact that the top of my gas tank and sending unit is ROTTED out is where all my fuel is. Lines to get replaced by a shop is $200. Not so bad, but they won't replace anything without replacing the sending unit and possibly the tank too
So thank you all for helping, Now i have to decide if money in this car is worth it. Mine as well buy a cheap beater
-Noah
#7
Okay, I did the brake test thing. Brakes were hot as ****. Even after i left it to cool for a couple mins after driving...Don't think they are hanging up though, after i jacekd up and easily spinned them.
I believe the fact that the top of my gas tank and sending unit is ROTTED out is where all my fuel is. Lines to get replaced by a shop is $200. Not so bad, but they won't replace anything without replacing the sending unit and possibly the tank too
So thank you all for helping, Now i have to decide if money in this car is worth it. Mine as well buy a cheap beater
-Noah
I believe the fact that the top of my gas tank and sending unit is ROTTED out is where all my fuel is. Lines to get replaced by a shop is $200. Not so bad, but they won't replace anything without replacing the sending unit and possibly the tank too
So thank you all for helping, Now i have to decide if money in this car is worth it. Mine as well buy a cheap beater
-Noah
#10
Driving Habits is a huge factor, if i drive somewhat aggressively i get 25mpg, if i drive conservativly i can get 37 out of my 4 banger accord. Thats mostly highway. Do a google search on hypermiling to get some tips. Some of these guys are nuts but some of the stuff just makes good sense.