I'm going to ramble a bit about what NOT to do and hope to save others with window problems some problems...but there is an actual question at the end here if you want to skip the whole story leading up to it.

I"ve got a 1999 V6 coupe LX with 175000 miles on it that still runs like a champ! Plently of passing power when trying to navigate traffic and still getting great MPG. Over the last couple months, I started having window issues where the driver window would roll down but occasionally would hang crooked while putting it back up with a narrow gap at the front edge of the window. Caused a really annoying whistling sound when driving at speed. A buddy of mine fixed it by grabbing the window on both sides with the door open while it was almost all the way up and just pulled it into place. I continued this "fix" for a while until it got to the point that every time I put the window down, it would not close again and I wound up pulling it back into place. I got around to taking the door panel off to take a better look at what was happening inside my door. I found that the 4 bolts that hold the window motor assembly and regulator in place was down to 3 bolts and they weren't very tight. In fact, I had worn much larger oblong holes in the door around the remaining 3 by the weeks of pushing and pulling on the loose bolts. I bought longer bolts to hold a new hardware stack including a lock washer and big flat washer and then tried to line the bolt holes back up. During this process, the window stopped working at all. I just figured I blew a fuse because I was using the switch to make the whole regulator mounting plate shift while I operated the window and it got jammed several times. The passenger window still worked fine and I didn't find any blown fuses so I decided the motor must have burned out. I checked for voltage going to the motor by disconnecting the plug and taking some readings. On the 4 pin connector to the window motor I found it was getting about 12VDC, figured that meant the window was getting power, so again i assumed the motor was the problem. At this point, it was late at night, my actual glass window was almost completely open, and it was supposed to be rainy and cold the following day. I totally removed the glass, regulator, and motor. I had some clear, heavy sheet plastic so I threw that over the opening and then duct taped it into place (highly recommend against this as I will now have to replace the silver trim at the bottom of the window and get the door repainted from where paint peeled off when i removed the tape)

Drove around with a plastic window for about 2 weeks before I made time to hit the autoparts store and get a new motor. NAPA had one in stock around $70 on tradein. I got back home and plugged it in and....still no movement. This is the point where i actually started doing some research to figure out what the problem is. I took some wire directly from the battery to the motor just to make certain the motor worked. (sure wish I thought of that 70 dollars and a paint job ago... now i need to go find that receipt and see what the return policy is for a turn in item at NAPA.) Sure enough, motor operates just fine on battery power alone. That, along with some help from poorman212's posts on this site led me to troubleshoot the switch. If I ran jumpers and bypassed the switch, the motor again turns both up and down.

Guess i should stop attempting repairs in the middle of the night since the next thing I did was mix up the 4 pins i was using (12vdc, ground, and 2 paths to motor for up/down operation) and jumper 12vdc directly to a common ground instead of the pin for moving the window down. Needless to say there was a small pop as the fuse did its job of protecting the rest of the car from my stupidity. Didn't even bother locating the fuse yet (sounded like one in the passenger side fuse box) I just put everything away, and came inside to find out how much the new problem part was going to cost.

As it is now after 2AM local, no stores are open to answer a question.
What is the multiplex / master window switch in the driver door actually called? I've searched autozone, rockauto, napa...and haven't come up with the part-number or name yet.

 

Does anyone happen to have the colors or numbers for all the wires in the master switch plug? I wanted to swap passenger and driver side pins so i can use my window again. I never seem to open the passenger window but I used mine on the driver side all the time. can i just switch them out or will the anti-pinch phasor thing prevent the passenger switch from operating driver window?

 

I'll bet the #13 7.5 amp fuse in the pass side fuse panel is the one that went. There are also fuses for each window motor (20amp) but check #13 first.

The power window switch is what you are looking for NAPA, AZ, Dorman Products and several others should have this......

Give me a bit to look up the proper "jump" for this....at least get the window up.

Pretty sure the pass side is not going to "fit".....more wires on the master switch so the plug is going to be different.

EDIT: I haven't said it today.....I HATE electrical.

 

Turns out i blew the 20 amp motor fuse. last night. I'm about to go down and wire in a 2 position return to center switch to bypass the master switch so I will have a window that works before tomorrow. I have to figure out the pins first though as Radio Shack doesn't supply that information on the package. I am NOT going to tape up the window again or drive around while leaning over the center console to avoid rain!

from the autozone guy... that switch comes up as N/A. He said this and many other parts with micro electronics built into them are only available through the dealer ( or find a working one out of another car)

So I'll be calling in for the price gouge at the dealership tomorrow just to check the amount. But if this bypass switch for $4 works, I'll just wait until i find it in a junkyard or ebay. I'm also going to search again for that post I read yesterday with the correct pins to jump on master plug for up/down as i believe I tossed my note in the trash >

 

found the pins i was looking for

green/white (hot always) to red/blue and black (ground) to red/yellow -=-> down
green/white to red/yellow and black to red/blue -=-> up

ps..do not take green/white to black-=-20 amp fuse will tell you that's a bad idea

 

Well I guess I owe you a cup of coffee....that is what I bet.

 

1999 Honda Accord, driver's side power window not working. All other windows work. Pulled up the switch from the door and wiggled wires a couple of times and window would work for a while but eventually quit working again

 

Couple of things , you should not open a new complain on an already open thread not a good idea , moderators don't like that , it's best to open your own
Sounds like you got some loose wiring , loose contact at switch , worn out switch , I would pull the switch and chk it all over for possible loose connections