If there is oil inside of the distributor, then the shaft seal is leaking oil. I took apart my 95 distributor, and it really wasn't that bad once you realize how to take it apart.

Since the o-ring is inexpensive, I would try replacing the o-ring, cleaning the oil, then see if you still have an oil leak. Just put a mark a line across the top bolt housing on the distributor to the cylinder head before you remove the distributor, so you don't have to adjust the timing.

 

Wait, I don't get the line part. How does this affect the timing? I'm not saying it doesn't, I'm just genuinely curious.

Are you talking about drawing a line on the side of the distributor where the engine and distributor meet so that when I put the distributor back on, I can rotate it so that the line is where it was when I first scribed it?

 

The easiest for you to see is to scribe a line on the top of the distributor housing where the upper bolt goes into the cylinder head.

You will see on the distributor housing has slots for the bolts. You can twist the rotor a bit before you tighten the bolts. This is to center the timing without the engine computer. Then the engine computer can advance or retard the timing when necessary. If you mark the distributor with a line, then you won't have to do this.

You can watch video from ericthecarguy by searching for sGzxCCaxDjI on YouTube on how to set the distributor timing.

 

I just read your earlier post. Unplug the connector(s) that go to the distributor/coil if you want to turn the engine with the cap off to position the rotor screw for removal.

You could also turn the engine by hand at the crank pulley using a 19mm socket. Then you won't have to worry about unplugging the distributor. Turn the engine only in the direction that it naturally rotates. Counterclockwise when looking at the engine from the driver's side tires.

 

Oil inside would mean a shaft seal leak.

Shaft seal replacement is possible, but tricky and not recommended. There are procedures that can be found w/ searching if you're interested.

good luck

 

one of which may be the below.

honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2214402

 

While I was looking around the inside of the hood today near the distributor to plan out my plan of attack, I noticed a problem.

For some reason, one of the bolts mounting the distributor to the engine is missing. One of the three that's closest to the firewall and ignition coil is just gone.

Now this seems to point at why there's an oil leak? Could it be that the lack of a third bolt is creating uneven pressure on one side of the distributor shaft causing oil to leak out of the other?

I'm not sure why this isn't a bigger problem. Could this be affecting how the car runs? Would running a car with one less bolt make a difference? I think so because there are only three bolts holding it together in a triangle formation. Losing a corner of the triangle seems like a big deal. I'm wondering if this did a number on the distributor shaft.

So I'm going to order a replacement bolt or two for when I remove the distributor.

 

No, it's an oring seal and would seal as long as distributor is fully flush w/ cylinder head. Two bolts will hold just fine. You can get a replacement bolt from Honda.

good luck

 

Already ordered. :-)

I'm planning on using some diluted Purple Power to spray on the oil that leaked around the underside of the distributor area (near Transmission). Some oil is right next to the ignition coil.

Obviously this presents some concern. Would it be safe to spray some purple power and hose down this area? I'm trying not to deliberately get water inside the ignition coil but how much is safe? Should I disconnect the battery?

 

Install a plastic bag over the distributor and secure w/ large rubber band or twist-tie. This will allow enough protection to spray around the distributor. It helps to warm the engine slightly, 2-3 mins before cleaning to enhance cleaning. It may take several applications of soap and flush to clean reasonably.

good luck