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Questions---Doing Headgasket on F22B1?

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  #1  
Old 06-16-2013 | 07:13 PM
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Default Questions---Doing Headgasket on F22B1?

Hi Guys-

I am trying to do headgasket on F22B1, as you might have seen my other post that I am struggling with one of the cylinder headbolt.

Have few questions about pulling the cylinder head:

1- Do I have to remove the side engine mount to pull the head?

2- In order to remove the side engine mount, I would have to remove the Alternator first, right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 06-16-2013 | 07:29 PM
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From your description, you apparently have no shop manual and are trying to do by "sight". This is your largest problem. Get a manual of some type. Check DiY forum for a download from "Online Manuals" post.

Driver's side Alt, PS pump, Engine mount, timing belt covers, and timing belt have to be removed.

There might some slick way of puling the camshaft sprocket and suspending the timing belt to avoid removal, but I haven't seen anyone post a description of this. I've seen this done on other engines, but not Honda 4-cyls.

There is a specific sequence for removal of cylinder head bolts that should be followed.

good luck
 
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Old 06-17-2013 | 07:40 AM
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As always 'TexasHonda' really appreciate your help and response.

I do have a FSM which I downloaded from DIY section.

It says to remove the side engine mount, while I was told by someone that i don't have to remove the side mount, as well as Alternator and I can still pull the head.

I have removed the T/B from the cam gear and cam is out from the head too, but 'Head' is not moving, seems like its still holded by something
 
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Old 06-17-2013 | 02:33 PM
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You said you were having trouble with one head bolt? Which one? Did you loosen each one in order before completely loosening them?
 
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Old 06-18-2013 | 07:36 AM
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Yes, I am struggling really bad with '1' head bolt.

First one at the top on the right, no unfortunately I tried loosening them in sequence but wherever I had no luck cracking the bolt, I moved on to the next one.

I am doing this HG for the first time, honestly at first place wish I would have used a deep 6 pt with a 1/2" breaker bar and 4" long cheater pipe, but I learned it through hard way

How to remove '1' cylinder Head bolt head by drilling? - Page 2 - Honda-Tech
 
  #6  
Old 06-18-2013 | 10:21 AM
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Before drilling it, I would put the other bolts back & tighten them somewhat, especially the ones just surrounding the problem bolt. By loosening the others, you put that much MORE load on the one remaining bolt.
 
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Old 06-18-2013 | 06:48 PM
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Have you rounded the bolt head? If yes, then Craftsman rounded bolt/nut sockets shiould be able to grab securely enough to turn.

good luck
 
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Old 06-18-2013 | 09:51 PM
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Guys, a quick update.

Thanks so much for all the help, cooperation and guidance.

Gladly, I am able to crack the bolt head and pulled the head tonight

I can't say 'Thank you' enough for all the help, patience and cooperation.

Couple of quick lessons, mistakes and advises for others:

1- Use drilling bits only meant for drilling into 'Metal'. Start with 4mm bit with a pilot hole in the center, then go in steps of 2-4mm.

2- 9/16" should be the final bit, because size of the bolt head is 14mm.

3- Use lil bit of grinding stone, before using 9/16', chisel and hammering should be the final step.

4- If you are unable to completely remove the head of the bolt, don't stress out, remove all other 9 bolts and pry the head up, it will automatically break the head for the last bolt.

5- Remaining portion of the bolt in the block can be removed with a vice grip, open end wrench or a channel.

Please PM me for any questions or any information.
 
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Old 06-18-2013 | 09:59 PM
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Thanks so much for all of your help and advice.

Before started to drill, I tried every possible thing, tried tightening all the bolts, especially 2/3 close to the problematic ones.

Couple of things went wrong from my side, so in steps:

1- I started with air Impact gun, had compressor for few days, not any more with me.

2- Tried using 12 pt(Big Mistake), instead of 6 pt, then tried hammering bolt extractor(Irwin/Craftsman/Lisle/Harbor Freight), then impact, bolt extractor, regular sockets, so finally bolt was completely round from the edges and top.
Lesson for Others:
Always use good 6 pt deep socket with a 1/2" Breaker bar and 4-5 feet long heavy steel cheater pipe. Get a helper, holding the socket on the bolt by pushing it downward, while other person is trying to break the bolt.



Thanks again, really appreciate it. Also 'TexasHonda' wish I would have listened to you at the first place, there is no 'Quick and Dirty' way of doing the HG and I have learned it through hard way.

I am sure, will be asking you more questions, when I will be assembling everything back

Any other tips after I get the head checked from the machine shop? Since I am already there, do I(should) need to look/replace for any other thing?

I am planning to use FelPro Gaskets (HG, IM, TB, Exhaust Mani), also planning to replace, valve cover gasket, Spark plug tube seals.
 
  #10  
Old 06-19-2013 | 06:19 PM
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So, the tight bolt came out w/ a 6-pt socket? I didn't follow what was solution.

good luck
 


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