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Questions---Doing Headgasket on F22B1?

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  #11  
Old 06-20-2013 | 08:39 AM
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No, I had to drill it out. It came out after drilling, which is no FUN at all.
 
  #12  
Old 06-20-2013 | 11:39 AM
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The rounded bolt sockets could not develop enough bite to turn the bolt and twisted also?

good luck
 
  #13  
Old 06-21-2013 | 08:29 AM
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Yes, even those ones were slipping on the bolt head.

I tried using a smaller one, but that one wasn't going, tried hammering it, but it was eating the head. So finally after trying every possible thing, I had to drill that damn bolt
 
  #14  
Old 06-21-2013 | 10:04 AM
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Congratulations, I would not have thought it possible to drill out a head bolt by hand. How far down inside the bolt did you drill?

My apporach would have been to have someone weld a large nut to the remainder of the bolt head to provide a new bolt head profile.

thanks for followup!

good luck
 
  #15  
Old 06-23-2013 | 07:05 AM
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I drilled lil bit below the head of the bolt into shaft and then started increasing the size of the bit.

Unfortunately, I don't have a welder and the spot was TOOO tight too

I am planning to use FelPro Gaskets (HG, IM, TB, Exhaust Mani), also planning to replace, valve cover gasket, Spark plug tube seals and all heater and small bypass coolant hoses.

Any other tips after I get the head checked from the machine shop? Since I am already there, do I(should) need to look/replace for any other thing?
 
  #16  
Old 06-23-2013 | 08:48 AM
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Changing the valve seals may not be a bad idea while the head is removed.
 
  #17  
Old 06-24-2013 | 09:33 AM
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Thanks for the help guys.

So I took the head to a machine shop today to get it checked.

Couple of questions:

1- Head needs resurfacing, because of running hot.
2- One of the exhaust valve is cracked/burned(#4), need to be replaced.

A)Now, if I just replace '2' exhaust valves(#4), cleaning and resurfacing it will cost me $100.

B)If I replace all the valves, seals, cleaning and resurfacing will cost me $320.


Car has 233K and I want to use as a beater, so cheapest option and route I wanna take.

What do you guys suggest and advise? If I go with "A" how long you think the car will last(miles)? Any other tip or idea or suggestion?

Thanks for your help.
 

Last edited by faran; 06-24-2013 at 09:35 AM.
  #18  
Old 06-24-2013 | 11:36 AM
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I only replaced damaged valves (one case), new stems seals (all valves), crack inspection, and re-surfacing done. It usually was $125-250, depending on number of valves in head; Subaru 2-cyl head, Accord 4-cyl, Ford V8 (4-cylinder head).

No right/wrong here, your call.

good luck
 
  #19  
Old 06-24-2013 | 11:51 AM
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Thanks so much for chiming in and prompt response.

I definitely need suggestion, help and advise from experts like you now

So machine shop guy is saying, since car has so many miles, it would be safe to just replace Exhaust valves in a pair for the problematic cylinder(#4). No need to do seals or anything, since the wear on all the seals will be same or almost even. Because if we replace only 2 seals for the new exhaust valves, it will not be a good idea.

My thought or idea is just to replace (#4) both Exhaust valves, cleaning and resurfacing the head(Option "A" from my previous post) and lets leave everything as is.

Do you think car will last for long or I will be again crying after 6 months?
 
  #20  
Old 06-24-2013 | 11:57 AM
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My 94 EX still runs well after cylinder head job 3-4 yrs back, but not a lot of miles since. It currently has 245K miles.

good luck
 


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