So, its about coming to that time where I need to either, rebuild, replace or sell off.

After doing some research I have found that some people have rebuilt the engine without removing it. Saying that by taking the oil pan off then the bottom brackets holding the pistons to the crank they are able to push the cylinders out the top (after removing the head of course).

Furthermore they say that if the cylinders are not out of round or have scratches in them they don't need to be honed. (This make sense to me, I usually look for the cross hatch of the original machining process).

So if that is the case I am looking at the cost of rings either .02 or .04, and a couple new gaskets (head gasket being the major one).


What do you guys think? I can find salvage engines for 600-1500 but can't guarantee that I won't have problems with them.

 

Give Scott a call: (3) 522.8667. He's near Sheridan & Alameda, buys auction cars and fixes them or parts them out, and gives a 30- day guarantee. The F23A1 I bought from him w/116K turned out to be perfect. 3K miles on it so far and has yet to use a drop of oil. I paid $325 but pulled it myself using my tools and his cherry picker. He quoted another $90 to pull it.

 

Hmmm thanks, I appreciate the input. I will contact him when I've got the funds (should be next month)

 

Here are my leak down test results:
1st test;


test 2 (preformed after 5 min drive)


So while the engine isn't in 'bad' condition yet, it is working towards getting there. Also I think the blow by is seriously pressurizing the crank case (too much for the PCV and intake tube thing to handle) causing oil to be pushed out the oil pan gasket (which is only 6 months old)

So I think I am going to clean her up and put adds up. Looking at acquiring a manual E46 BMW 3 series... I hear great things about the quality at any milage as long as they have been properly maintained.

Anyone else have suggestions? budget is 7,500 -10,000. Must be a manual, 6 cyl or turbo 4, preferably a sedan, sunroof, fun to drive (ie. rwd or awd) while maintaining affordability when it comes to service.

 

id say just get an h23 and swap the engine. youll have more power, more response and the amount of power that youll have with an h23 will compensate w/ the transmission well. thats what im going to do with my 97 accord. my f22 has either a piston or a connecting rod rattling and now im in the process of dumping in an h22 inside w/ the f22 transmission. ill have longer gears which means higher top end but the downside is that some of the acceleration will be lost which gives you space to add in a turbo if you want to add some power to add more acceleration and of course more power.

 

You could look into a newer (03 and up) Accord....some of the Acura's look nice?

 

Wintertime 7% - 8% grades in a RWD car = tire chains.

 

Get the E46, thats what I am currently looking for as well, but in the ///M style.

Other options in that price range are G35, 350z, S2000, RX7, RX8

 

I understand, and have actually driven a 330i over the pass in bad conditions. It actually did pretty well due to the DSC traction control plus really good snow tires and the ability to not be an idiot with the throttle. I would definitely like to get a 330xi though

I have considered a newer accord, but I want some thing with more luxury with better power and handling out of the box. I have been looking into 04 ish TL's but they are a touch above my price point.

s2000's and mr2's have been considered but I need some sort of a backseat for insurance and space purposes

And quite honestly I don't want to swap an engine into my car, I'd rebuild what I have before replacing it.

 

A couple of years ago coming back from southern Utah on a Saturday in March, hit unforecast blizzard in Gypsum or thereabouts. Got to within a mile of the Tunnel and traffic stopped, snow coming down fast and hard. Watched the gigantic CDOT tow truck clearing the road. Sat on I-70 for almost two hours as the tow truck moved a late model RWD Cadillac, a Dodge Challenger, and a couple of Mustangs, in addition to the unchained semis.

I hear you on tires & traction control, but sometimes you have no choice but to start from a dead stop on a steep grade on ice. Both rear wheels were spinning on that Caddy (STS?) - indicating traction control - but it was going backwards if anything. I'm guessing the nothing but chains would have got that car over the Divide.