REMOVING wheel bearings?
#11
RE: REMOVING wheel bearings?
check around a little on the site and check out what desert has done on here. if we were playing san andreas gta right now he would be walking around with 2 guns. its your rotors.......no question completely stop thinking about the wheel bearings because its your rotors. they cannot be check visually for runout.....it must be put on a lathe. just take the rotors off and have them turned and put on some new pads. your problem will be solved. again this is a rotor problem
#12
RE: REMOVING wheel bearings?
ORIGINAL: BigMike
Is there a way, visually, i can tell if my rotors are warped. Can it be the brakes pads too....or not likely?
Is there a way, visually, i can tell if my rotors are warped. Can it be the brakes pads too....or not likely?
Material from the pads gets deposited on the braking surface of the rotor. If you like to stamp the brakes & make them good & hot, one BAD thing is when you stop at a red light. The surface of the rotor that's clamped by the pads for 90 seconds behaves very different than the remaining surface of the rotor. Pad material then gets deposited unevenly. It's not warped, but it's friction properties become very non-uniform around the rotor. Get it??
Sometimes this non-unform imprinting of pad material onto the rotor is visible, but not always.
#13
RE: REMOVING wheel bearings?
BIG MIKE:
When you remove the calipers - look at the thickness of the inboard pad, (piston side) and the outboard pad and compare them. If one happens to be less than the other then you could have a piston or a slider not releasing to a relaxed position. This is usually not a concern unless the vehicle is pulling to one side at road idle, (level road and tire pressure checked of course). Rare but, something to check when viewing the pads.
When you remove the calipers - look at the thickness of the inboard pad, (piston side) and the outboard pad and compare them. If one happens to be less than the other then you could have a piston or a slider not releasing to a relaxed position. This is usually not a concern unless the vehicle is pulling to one side at road idle, (level road and tire pressure checked of course). Rare but, something to check when viewing the pads.
#15
RE: REMOVING wheel bearings?
Big Mike, I agree with these guys 100%. I had a very similiar problem to yours and I thought well, brakes are pretty worn and need to be replaced within the next few miles so go ahead and do it; and the problem was fixed for me. Some honda dealerships do a brake inspection for like $20 and most honda dealerships are equipped to turn rotors while they are on the car.
#16
RE: REMOVING wheel bearings?
ORIGINAL: Alekat
Unless you installed the rotor(s) on a lathe - it is difficult if not impossible to tell.
Unless you installed the rotor(s) on a lathe - it is difficult if not impossible to tell.
#18
RE: REMOVING wheel bearings?
ORIGINAL: Alekat
Sure can but, what I read led me to believe: The content of the post indicated the posters experience was not advanced to the degree that would provide the knowledge to use those kinds of tools.
Sure can but, what I read led me to believe: The content of the post indicated the posters experience was not advanced to the degree that would provide the knowledge to use those kinds of tools.
#19
RE: REMOVING wheel bearings?
ORIGINAL: JimBlake
Material from the pads gets deposited on the braking surface of the rotor. If you like to stamp the brakes & make them good & hot, one BAD thing is when you stop at a red light. The surface of the rotor that's clamped by the pads for 90 seconds behaves very different than the remaining surface of the rotor. Pad material then gets deposited unevenly. It's not warped, but it's friction properties become very non-uniform around the rotor. Get it??
Material from the pads gets deposited on the braking surface of the rotor. If you like to stamp the brakes & make them good & hot, one BAD thing is when you stop at a red light. The surface of the rotor that's clamped by the pads for 90 seconds behaves very different than the remaining surface of the rotor. Pad material then gets deposited unevenly. It's not warped, but it's friction properties become very non-uniform around the rotor. Get it??
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