Car is at a (good) dealer 2700 miles from me under someone else's care and due to a long story that you don't want to hear. They seem trustworthy and are being very helpful as part of that long story. 80K miles, well maintained. Recent purchase.

1. Dealer has diagnosed rear ring issues due to VCM. It's using a lot of oil, a quart per 1000 miles. Perhaps more. Plan is replacement of rings on rear three cyls. Should other things be done while in there? I don't have a parts list as I'm remote so I'm not sure exactly what they'll replace beyond rings and plugs. Thoughts on things I probably should ask?

2. Front control arm bushings are apparently cracked. Advise is "fairly well cracked through, replace but might last a while longer, hard to say". Car was in a desert climate, so cracked rubber doesn't surprise me (kind of the norm for older cars in the region). Thoughts? Do them now? I don't need safety risks or to kill tires if that's the downside to waiting.

3. Tranny fluid: Is Honda only fluid the way to go? Fluid was changed at an independent less than a year ago. Mechanic says it looks a little dark... "but that might be an aftermarket fluid they used". Thoughts on that? Is "Honda fluid only" the way to go on these trannys? With the cost of a transmission, I don't want to take dumb risks for a few bucks.

 

OK, 80K miles: so what year, what engine? What cost is quoted? Why do you have to repair it? - maybe your daughter driving it and you feel responsible?

Without that info, generally, I would be leery of partial engine work (last 3 cylinders only?). I'd go for an all cyl repair or a replacement engine.
I'm also skeptical of things done remotely; maybe you're not.

Tranny fluid: everyone on the forum says to use Honda A/T fluid, so you 'should' have a couple of drain and fills done with this fluid having >5 miles driving between.
OTOH: I've used Oreilly's house brand (labelled for Honda) on my '97 and it's worked well for 110,000. I'd use Honda fluid if I had a better A/T Honda car.

My '92 5 spd uses 1/2 qt oil every 750 miles; and I just add oil. Reliable car. Why not do this for your car? All is just my $0.02

 

V6... VCM related problem.

The 3-cyl re-ring is only $1700 discounted. I'm guessing an full rebuild or new engine is at least twice that. According to the service manager, he's done quite a few of the back three only on these motors (VCM shuts off the rear three only, leading to the ring issue) and it's worked out fine. Of course, that's always"YMMV".

If it was me, I'd prob just add the oil too and do the spark plugs often (fowling is what led to discovery of the problem). But I'm not driving the car or there to check it. The person who is won't do so reliably due to an over-booked life and no DIY/mechanical skills to clean the plugs regularly. FWIW, the current plugs fouled in only a year.

 

1) I’m wondering why it’s having ring problems at 80k. Even accounting for the cylinder shut off, 80k seems early. Did they give you specifics as to how the VCM caused the ring failure? I can speculate as to why, but when they’re asking $1700 to repair, they should at least be able to explain it completely.

2) Worn/cracked control arm bushings will affect alignment. Other than premature tire wear, how bad they’re worn will determine the noticeable effects, which can range from clunking noises to vibrations to pulling while braking or accelerating. If it’s just the bushings that are worn, cost to fix is cheap and shouldn’t require re-alignment unless there’s other problems affecting it.

3) As long as the fluid you use meets Honda specs, there’s no issue. Some will swear up and down that OEM parts/fluids are the only way to go, but what I’ve always found to be the hole in that logic is that I’ve rarely ever installed OEM parts or fluids on my vehicles and I’m yet to have any problems related to them. That means I’m either the luckiest guy in the world when it comes to aftermarket parts or anybody that insists on OEM doesn’t know what they’re doing - I find both to be unlikely.

Good luck.

 

Thanks. When I was researching these cars before buying, I did note that 80K seemed to be when people were saying VCM problems might arise. The SM says that the oil rings are stuck, leading to the consumption (clearly high for a car with these miles) and the plug fowling. I can verify the oil consumption. I'm confident it's not an external leak. So the diagnosis seems legit. I also haven't heard of other oil related problems on these... so I'm guessing it's the standard one. But, I'm always open to suggestions. I did see the maint records for the car before purchase and the previous owner dotted all the i's and crossed all the t's.

I'll guess we'll bite the bullet on the Control arms. Not much point in killing tires to avoid a cost you'll have to pay eventually anyway. Do they last longer in cooler climates (i.e. the Northeast)?

I'll have to see what I can find out about the fluid that was used. Don't want to be penny conscious and pound foolish... but don't want to waste money either.

 

A hotter climate can impact the longevity of suspension bushings, but it really just comes down to the type of material they’re made from and the daily driving conditions it’s been exposed to. Even though the previous owner took care of it, they could’ve been driving on poorly maintained or gravel roads and that would cause more frequent suspension movements than relatively smoother roads.

Most struts and shocks are recommended for replacement between 50-80 thousand miles - if those aren’t replaced when needed, the rest of the suspension has to make up the difference and it usually doesn’t take long for them to wear out as a result.

 

Normally, I'd just replace the entire control arm with aftermarket parts (what I did on my 99 Accord), as they'll cost about the same as the bushings (not counting install time). But, since it's at a dealership, you're kind of screwed. You might want to look for a good independent shop, and have them done that way (replacing the control arms, top and bottom). You can get a kit from Detroit Axle (off e-bay) that will have what you need for less than the cost of the bushings from the dealer. Just a thought.