In my 96 I have been slowly trying to get it back to 100% operating. So recently I did a tune up. I bought NGK wires to replace stock 1996 wires, NGK iridium plugs, K&N air filter, rotor cap and rotor (though the rotor was the incorrect one and the right one was not in stock).

My idle has been rough ever since I bought the car wrecked last year. First it was the idle control valve that was making the idle jump around. Ever after that replacement I've had to has the idle up to about 1500rpm to keep it smooth. After the tune-up it is around 1100 then it starts to get rough again. I see that the proper idle is around 750 rpm.

I don't have a volt meter to tell what the proper volts are on the ICV under the throttle body, so I gave my best guess when doing it. I still have a problem when the car first turns on it'll rev to 2k and then drop down to around 500rpm, making it really rough.

My real question is what should I do next to correct this idle problem. I'd love to have it back to the stock rpm.



On a side note, after the tuneup I'm getting terrible gas mileage, 20 on the last fill up. i was getting 24. (all freeway driving back and forth to work). I wish I knew why that was. Partly why I wanted to do it was because I've heard of near 30's in a coup like mine... (maybe the person was lying?)

 

Is Check Engine Light on? If yes, what codes presented?

Was the idle adjusted w/ the idle air bypass bleed or setting throttle plate position?

Throttle plate and bore should be cleaned w/ throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush. Both sides of throttle plate.

Is idle vibration rough or rough due to engine missing? Vibration can result from worn/damaged motor mounts.

Poor fuel efficiency can be result of aging O2 sensor. Sometimes replacing O2 sensor can cure rough idle (warm engine) and improve mpg. Fairly inexpensive replacement; < $50.

good luck

 

yes, it is on. I cannot remember the code, I finally have a day off tomorrow, i'll ttake it down to get the code pulled and report back.

It was adjusted with the plate on top of the motor/fuel rail.

I'm not sure what the difference is between roughness and the engine missing. But it is only rough when at <1000 RPM if that matters. As for the motor mounts...this is a funny story..., well frustrating for me at least.
The mount posistion on the drivers side was intact after the front end accident. But..the motor block was NOT okay. Two of the three bolt holes were broken off deep enough to make the motor mount not usable any more. I made my own out of stout steel, welded two pieces together and used three bolts from different area on the drivers side of the motor...so it is likely from that I would guess... I've been searching for a good priced Vtec to replace it locally! I tried three different ways to replace the broken holes. welded, with aluminium, the broken pieces back onto the motor but the holes wouldn't realign properly 1/2 way in, and then tried tapping the holes for a different thread to see if that would work, and it didn't.

I am willing to bet that, based on everything else on this car, it has never been replaced. I'll look into grabbing another O2 sensor.

Thanks Texas Honda.

 

Usuallly front and rear mounts control smoothness and resist torque loads. Check these for damage.

It might be worth taking to an welding shop. These guys can work magic sometimes to effect a repair. Welding aluminum is not difficult. However getting to the hold to tap threads may be tricky.

Let's see what the codes tell.

good luck

 

-_- DEAD TIRED. I never knew there were so many working hours in a day until I was made starbucks manager. 67 hours last week! one day off and two 11.5 hour days! People wonder why I don't have a social life. All I want to do is sleep when I get home!

Next day off, supposedly, is sunday. I'm hoping to buy two new front axles, and if I am fast enough, replace the gas lines that are more than likely leaking. (12 miles a day freeway driving, even with a heavy foot should not = less than 20mpg)