On my accord its an 87 with 192k and its carbed.
I let it sit for about 6 months, now it doest want to run right. It has almost no power between 2-3k. i idles fine and has good WOT power. the problem seems to be with just crusing. I have looked at spark plugs and coil and wires seem fine. The fuel pump puts out 3 psi. all were checked with the car in neurtal, should i recheck with a load on the motor? And the exhaust is not clogged as i took everything off before the cat, no difference. i assume the carb is in need of rebuild, but i wanted to see if should check anything else first. The timing is also correct and i fixed 2 small vaccum leaks that didnt help.
thanks
matt

 

I have no experience working on carbs, so hopefully and expert can help with that. You can search the threads, because most members deal with fuel injected cars on here.

Check that nothing nested in the air filter or intake hose.

If the car sat for a long time, you might have some moisture in the gas tank. If you remove the fuel return and route it to a container, you can jump the fuel relay and be able to drain the tank quickly. Fill maybe 1/4 tank with fresh gas and add seafoam to clean out any buildup in the system when the car is running.

You said that you replaced some bad vacuum hoses, and I would look around to see if any other ones seem to be in bad shape.

Also, any maintenance items that are due (like spark plugs, dist. cap, rotor, and air filter) should be replaced, so you can rule those items out as the cause for your problem.

 

Those cars didn’t have much midrange when new. Losing midrange would be a very unlikely carb problem. Check if the choke opens all the way, what color the spark plug electrodes are, compression, and distributor advance. I believe you can adjust the mixture on your Accord with the tool made for that. You should have a tank drain on your Honda if you want to dump the gas. It looks just like the oil drain plug. I would also check the condition of the spark plug wires.

 

I'd stuff it before ripping into the carb.
Take off the breather, plug the 3 lines on the passenger side of the carb, don't worry about the vent on the driver side of the carb.
Start the engine, check the fuel level is visable in the sight glass [drivers side of carb], while idling, pinch off the 2 hoses going to the choke pull off diaphram on the top passenger side front of the carb;The choke plate should open fully......okay let go of the hoses.
Now it's time to "STUFF IT"
With the engine warm, rev it up to 5-7k RPM and close the choke plates, or put your hand over the carb top.
DO NOT let the engine RPM go down too far and stall, before you let air back in.
Example being; let the choke plates back open or remove your hand around 3k RPM.
What this does is use the high vacuum of the intake manifold to pull gas thru all the ports and jets of the carb at high speed to 'hopefully' flush out the crud.
Put it all back together and test drive.
Oooops...almost forgot; while you have the breather off check to be sure the hotair door diaphram on the breather snorkle holds vacuum.
When was the last valve adjustment?

 

all spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor are fairly new with about 15k miles. i dont think there are any more vaccum leaks. I do get timing advance.
The car just runs rough mainly between 2-3k rpms. if feels kinda like a miss, but it also surges in rpm while crusing.
I have driven the car nearly 1k miles since the problem started, and i think it has gotten some better.
The valves were last adjusted maybe 2k miles ago.
the hot door air is open, i do not know if it shuts, but it is open at the moment.
i will try to stuff it this weekend
thanks
matt

 

tried the stuff it, didnt get any better.
i went to autozone and they check battery and alt, said alt is only putting out 50 amps, should be 65. does that sound like it could be my problem?
thanks
matt

 

it is not the alternator............there are 2 vacc hoses at the back of the carb ,, below the idle solenoid,, make sure that they are not cracked or broken

 

You could do a cylinder balance test to see if it isolated to one or two cylinders. Put a load on the motor (have someone put it in revere with foot on brake) at the RPM of the miss and remove the spark plugs wires with the plastic pliers they sell to do this. Note the one or ones that make little change in RPM and smoothness. As you put the plug wires back on you should hear the spark.

 

2 diaphrams on the dist. for vacum advance, are they holding vacuum and pulling the advance plate?