School me on..... the Sway Bar
#11
RE: School me on..... the Sway Bar
ORIGINAL: maro
What exactly does the sway bar do. My car is making the chang chang sound from beneath. A few have mention the lack of sway bar bushings are the reason. What are they? Where exactly are they? (I've seen diagrams, but with no context) Can I fix this without a lift. All insight is helpful
thanks
What exactly does the sway bar do. My car is making the chang chang sound from beneath. A few have mention the lack of sway bar bushings are the reason. What are they? Where exactly are they? (I've seen diagrams, but with no context) Can I fix this without a lift. All insight is helpful
thanks
#12
RE: School me on..... the Sway Bar
[/quote]
If you are going to replace the bushings, I would consider upgrading the bar or bars at the same time. I'm not sure what the options are for your year but I upgraded mine significantly with Acura bars that were only $40-$50 each (much cheaper than aftermarket).
[/quote]
As for the TL sway bars, did you do both at the same time? I've heard that leaving the front stock, and upgrading the rear is a good option. Any idea what the diameters on your TL bars are? The rear sounds fairly straightforward. Is the front any harder? Anything besides new bushings required for the new sway bars?
Thanks a ton!
If you are going to replace the bushings, I would consider upgrading the bar or bars at the same time. I'm not sure what the options are for your year but I upgraded mine significantly with Acura bars that were only $40-$50 each (much cheaper than aftermarket).
[/quote]
As for the TL sway bars, did you do both at the same time? I've heard that leaving the front stock, and upgrading the rear is a good option. Any idea what the diameters on your TL bars are? The rear sounds fairly straightforward. Is the front any harder? Anything besides new bushings required for the new sway bars?
Thanks a ton!
#13
RE: School me on..... the Sway Bar
[/quote]
As for the TL sway bars, did you do both at the same time? I've heard that leaving the front stock, and upgrading the rear is a good option. Any idea what the diameters on your TL bars are? The rear sounds fairly straightforward. Is the front any harder? Anything besides new bushings required for the new sway bars?
Thanks a ton!
[/quote]
The rear was pretty simple. I only bought the bar and the bushings (used same end-links). It was a pain to get the end-link bolts unscrewed, though (a bit corroded). I used a20mm bar and bushings for a 2004-2007 TL-S. Made a HUGE difference. Stock diameter was 16mm. The only problem is that the rear bar comes close (rubs) the muffler hanger where it is welded to the body so it squeaked/clunked a bit. I greased itand now it is quiet.
I opted to upgrade the front too because although the car was very neutral, I have a teenager that will be driving soon so thought it would be better if it was biased just a bit to the front (for a new driver).The front was more difficult (more stuff in the way) but not ridiculous.Stock bar was 25.5 mm (hollow) and the TL bar is 27.2 (also hollow)from a 2000 TL or 2000 V6 Accord.
The above worked on my 2000. I have ordered a TL strut bar ($47) and will put that on next week.
As for the TL sway bars, did you do both at the same time? I've heard that leaving the front stock, and upgrading the rear is a good option. Any idea what the diameters on your TL bars are? The rear sounds fairly straightforward. Is the front any harder? Anything besides new bushings required for the new sway bars?
Thanks a ton!
[/quote]
The rear was pretty simple. I only bought the bar and the bushings (used same end-links). It was a pain to get the end-link bolts unscrewed, though (a bit corroded). I used a20mm bar and bushings for a 2004-2007 TL-S. Made a HUGE difference. Stock diameter was 16mm. The only problem is that the rear bar comes close (rubs) the muffler hanger where it is welded to the body so it squeaked/clunked a bit. I greased itand now it is quiet.
I opted to upgrade the front too because although the car was very neutral, I have a teenager that will be driving soon so thought it would be better if it was biased just a bit to the front (for a new driver).The front was more difficult (more stuff in the way) but not ridiculous.Stock bar was 25.5 mm (hollow) and the TL bar is 27.2 (also hollow)from a 2000 TL or 2000 V6 Accord.
The above worked on my 2000. I have ordered a TL strut bar ($47) and will put that on next week.
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