shaking while breaking
#1
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shaking while breaking
i just did a front break job on my aunts 1991 4 door accord. she just had it aligned. just bought new tires and had them balanced. but she tells me after that its been shaking before she did any of the work to the car. so if it were a balancing issure or alignment it would have worked it self out at that time. while driving i used the e-break to slow the car and there was no shaking. the only thing that i think it could be is the rotors. any ideas???
#4
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Best article I've ever found.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
After years of frustration on a 1990 Honda Accord changing
rotors pads calipers and dealing with reoccurring pulsating
I've done this twice and cured it.Remove caliper from rotor
and hang out of way.Take Medium Grade Emery cloth and go
around rotor in circular motion a couple of inches at a time
(not like pads go around)like using a grinder.Do front and back
of rotor several times and break the pad glaze.If you have lots of
good pad left take them and put them on a vise facing up flat like
a tabletop.Take an all purpose file rounded on one side use round
side go across pad at 45 degree angle lightly in one direction then
the other until fresh material is showing then use flat side of
file to smooth out.Clean and regrease Caliper pins,etc.Re-assemble
and drive.At first there will still be a little shudder until shoes
reseat and clean up the rotor some more.
An exerpt from above article:
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
After years of frustration on a 1990 Honda Accord changing
rotors pads calipers and dealing with reoccurring pulsating
I've done this twice and cured it.Remove caliper from rotor
and hang out of way.Take Medium Grade Emery cloth and go
around rotor in circular motion a couple of inches at a time
(not like pads go around)like using a grinder.Do front and back
of rotor several times and break the pad glaze.If you have lots of
good pad left take them and put them on a vise facing up flat like
a tabletop.Take an all purpose file rounded on one side use round
side go across pad at 45 degree angle lightly in one direction then
the other until fresh material is showing then use flat side of
file to smooth out.Clean and regrease Caliper pins,etc.Re-assemble
and drive.At first there will still be a little shudder until shoes
reseat and clean up the rotor some more.
An exerpt from above article:
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.
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