shift selector problem
#11
Okay, on second check in regard to the adjustment, here's what manual says:
Now here's a photo of the actual business I'm looking at. In instruction #5 it says to check whether the hole in the adjuster is perfectly aligned with the hole in the shift cable. Well when I look through the hole in the adjuster I don't see any hole in the shift cable. So maybe I do need to adjust the cable. My problem is I can't figure out how to remove that "lock pin" from the from the cable adjuster, as mentioned in instruction #4. I tried squeezing the tab and pulling up, but no go; I don't know what is the little trick.
Now here's a photo of the actual business I'm looking at. In instruction #5 it says to check whether the hole in the adjuster is perfectly aligned with the hole in the shift cable. Well when I look through the hole in the adjuster I don't see any hole in the shift cable. So maybe I do need to adjust the cable. My problem is I can't figure out how to remove that "lock pin" from the from the cable adjuster, as mentioned in instruction #4. I tried squeezing the tab and pulling up, but no go; I don't know what is the little trick.
#13
And to add, with the car back up and running....on flat level ground, does the car try to "move" like it did when you had the wheels off the ground.
Or better yet, with them in the air and the cables apart. Does a slight "tug/push" on the cable make the wheels stop......I am kind of joining this late and not real sure of the issue.....jumped in with help on the cable at the trans. I guess I should read the whole thread.
Or better yet, with them in the air and the cables apart. Does a slight "tug/push" on the cable make the wheels stop......I am kind of joining this late and not real sure of the issue.....jumped in with help on the cable at the trans. I guess I should read the whole thread.
#14
Yeah more or less a collar you could call it. In the lower part of that drawing where there's an arrow pointing to it but no label. I think whats called the lock pin is the pin that goes through it as you can see the top of the pin in the photo but not really shown in the drawing... I can't figure out how you're supposed to remove that lock pin.
#15
with the car back up and running....on flat level ground, does the car try to "move" like it did when you had the wheels off the ground.
with them in the air and the cables apart. Does a slight "tug/push" on the cable make the wheels stop
#16
One day I'll make a copy of the manual I have and send it to you.....hint PM me an address and give me a few days/week. Or if I can remember where I got it, I could send a link.....it is not the best, it is for the 90 UK version Accord.
See if this clears it up?
See if this clears it up?
#17
Yeah that's a better drawing and stuff than I have in my manual. Tells me that the collar and pin are apparently all one thing. I guess I'd just need to pull up really hard on the clip-like collar, and I have tried that a little already but its like so tight on there I'm afraid it'll bust or something if I pull on it too hard. At least with your drawing there I have a better view of the thing. thanks
#18
Update: Got the clip ("lock pin") off. Installed a new shift cable (69 bucks). Works smooth as silk now. No more binding/strugging to get shifter moved back and forth between park and reverse. I found the instructions in the first link I included in post #5 this thread to be the most helpful/accurate to follow to get the job accomplished.
Last edited by sgull; 09-12-2013 at 10:37 PM.
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12-16-2009 12:10 PM