Hi, probably what I’m going to ask is already on the database of this page. However, by some reason every time I type something on the search, it always says that what I’m looking for doesn’t exist. Also I was looking for FAQ to see if they have some kind of detail explaining how to search. but it wasn’t there. If it is there, I do apologize. Anyhow I have several issues with my car: (1) Code P0420, I have already checked the 4 probable causes that it provided me, and they are fine. I believe it might be the oxygen sensors but I don’t know which one is damaged or maybe its both…. 2) Code P1738, “automatic transaxle concerns” I have no clue of what’s causing code P1738 .I only know that Honda wants to charge me a lot of $$$ for that. 3) How do I program my Honda remote to open/lock door and trunk? Finally, 4) by some reason, the outside plastic white bottle is getting overfilled with coolant; which is not normal. However, the dash temperature indicates that its fine, it is just a little bit below medium. I will appreciate any help possible. Thanks.


Honda Accord 98 EX 4 cylinder 4 doors

 

1. Either the after-cat oxygen sensor is bad, or the catalytic converter is not working. This doesn't affect engine performance or gas mileage, won't hurt anything to leave alone. I've had that same code on my car for 7 years now.

2. Probably a sign that your transmission is biting the dust. This is a know problem for the 98-02 automatics, there is an extended warranty for them that you can check here: http://www.hondatransmissionsettlement.com

3. You must have a trunk popper to unlock the trunk, it only locks when you close it. On many Honda and Acuras, hitting the unlock button once unlocks the driver door, hitting it twice unlocks the other doors and hatch. If you have a Honda alarm that will unlock and open the trunk for you, it has a button on the remote. If it doesn't, you get to stick the key in the trunk.

4. You may have air in the cooling system. There's a bleeding screw near the thermostat housing. Open this with the radiator cap off to bleed the system, add coolant to top off the radiator if needed, add coolant to bring the reservoir tank above the minimum level, if needed.

 

Search has been broken for a few months now. Annoying even for us who have been here awhile...
Look for a guy called Finch13. He put a search function in his signature...

1 - Ive been told that by 1998 the ECU is pretty good at telling the difference between bad sensors vs a bad cat.

2 - Im no expert on automatics...

3 - You need ONE remote that works. Ill look around for a procedure.

4 - Does it over-flow as soon as you start the engine? Possible head-gasket?
If it overflows only after getting hot, it might be a bad radiator cap or leaky line from cap to overflow.

 

Looks like Finch already found you.

programming remotes... per H-A.net
1) Unlock Doors
2) Turn ignition key to "ON" position (II)
3) Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the remote
4) Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position (0, I)
5) Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position
6) Press lock or unlock
7) Turn key to off position
8) on position
9) lock or unlock
10) off position
11) on position
12)lock or unlock - doors should cycle to indicate successful programming. If you only have one remote, turn ignition to off or don't touch anything. if you have 2+ remotes, go to 13:
13) lock on each transmitter that you need to program
*Steps 2-12 must be performed within 5 seconds of each other. Step 13 can be performed within 10 seconds of step 12. If it doesn't work, give me a yell

 

1) Okay I will leave it just like that cuz I thoughit was going gas mileage problems.

2) "This vehicle is not covered under the Settlement" I’m screwed.I can't afford $2,000 on a transmission its like working for free for around 6 weeks. I was thinking to look on the Junkersbut that’s like Pandora’s box. : (

3) I will check that also follow the steps provided by jimblake : )

4) I will do that tomorrow and let you know about and yes it overflow only when is hot. I was thinking that might be those 2 but the radiator isn't that old. Probably need a cleaning routine


Many thanks guys

 

#4 - check all the sealing surfaces for the radiator cap. Heres how its supposed to work...
As it heats up & pressurizes, the cap releases coolant over to the reservoir.
When it cools down, its supposed to suck it back in. That happens through the smallest center disk under the radiator cap. If theres any leak in the hose, its like sucking thru a straw with holes. It sucksairin, so more coolant stays in the reservoir. Repeat over & over, then the reservior overflows while theres air in the radiator.

This can be the fault of a bad cap, or even a simple leak in the little rubber hose.

 

#2 The transmission is the one which is worrying me howeverit shift and ran smoothly on roads and it only has 95,000 miles. I never had changed the transmission oil even the filter.... advice... (tune-up, replace orrebuild the sameone) also can this transmission be reforce?

#3 Steps provided for the programming didn't work and its only for 1 remoteID: KOBUTAH2TCANADA/ 1983 102 297probably I was a little slow doing it ill keeps trying.

#4 Exactly what you said. The cap was damage so I replace it today and it didn't overflow.

Thanks once again.

 

#2: Just drain the fluid and refill with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 from the dealer. There isn't a serviceable filter to change.

#3: JimBlake's instructions are for adding remotes to the current system, i.e. bought a new one from dealer. this will not program the trunk to open, that is mechanical.

 

Sorry for the delay.

#2 I change the transmission oil.

# 4 Alarm remote is working now however it doesn’t open any door I just hear the noise if I press lock or unlock. The signal should at least open the driver door but I believe that the actuator is damage.

Thanks,

 

Is the noise coming from the door?