Replaced engine for an acquaintance who did his own diagnosis. I wanted to check the engine that was in there but he stopped me as he didn't want to fix it and already had purchased new engine. He was SO sure the timing belt snapped. It had not.

The junkyard engine he got was nice and clean except they didn't drain the oil and it ended up in the intake and cylinders from being transported on its side. After a lengthy process of cleaning it up, the thing just won't start.

I can get it started a tiny bit and poorly with starting fluid, almost wants to run. Feels like something is happening at the wrong time, sort of jumping around much more than it should.

What have I done, tested?

plugs clean and replaced
fuel pressure
checked spark on every wire with voltage testing tool - plenty of spark but slightly erratic as seems to double spark every now and then and occasionally skip sparking
recent cap, rotor and wires and they are on right
new distributor several months ago, swapped over to new engine as it didn't come with one
compression tested - fine
don't see any broken solder joints on the main relay
injector harnesses all make my noid light pulse - might have been slightly erratic but not sure as it could have been imperfect connection too
hooked tach to test connector and it fluctuates noticeably while cranking but doesn't respond really fast enough to be sure
flashed crank with timing light and it is correct on cylinder 1 but seems a little bit erratic as sometimes it might double flash or skip flashing
changed ISC, throttle body, distributor flywheel and all accessories over from old engine
checked codes - only set one for no cam signal but I believe that I set that when I unplugged dist to blow oil out of engine and it did not re-set after clearing it
changed over entire wiring harness as the new engine came from an automatic
used graphing feature on my scanner to watch engine RPM while cranking and it is VERY erratic, goes to zero, bounces around several hundred RPM, occasionally spikes to ten thousand RPM, I believe this signal from the computer should be fine and accurate while cranking so this might be important
all other sensor reading seem fine besides both o2 sensors read 1.275v while just sitting there...?

I did a lot more stuff that I can not think of right this minute but I will update in replies

I think it is the distributor, something in it despite it being fairly new.

It makes sense that it is an electronic issue as the only stuff from the new engine are some sensors (that read fine) and the mechanicals.

Poor guy, bought an engine that he didn't need AND still paying to fix the original problem.

I can get the distributor in the morning if that is likely problem.

Wouldn't know how to go about checking the ECU but it communicates with scan tool fine.

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE help. I have a lot more time on this than I intended.

 

I would clear the codes. Then try to start the car and see if a new code comes up.

 

I will take any kind of help I can get.

SOMEBODY has to have an idea on at least the o2 sensors reading 1.275 with key on engine off.

Can someone check theirs and tell me if that's normal please?

 

Thank you. I did that. No new codes.

I DO appreciate your reply.

 

Does anyone have any experience with the reliability of oreillys ignition io on module testing?

 

With about a hundred people viewing the forum I have a hard time believing no one besides PaHonda has any ideas.

Did I enter some information wrong or is this above the technical level of the members here?

 

You have done a lot of stuff on the car already.

Try using the timing light on every spark plug wire. Try to start the car. See if enough spark is generated to flash the timing light on each wire.

Starting at plug wire #1, and going clockwise on the distributor (looking at the distributor from the passenger side of the car), what is the firing order of the plugs?

 

Thank you PaHonda.

Yes, each one pulses.

All 3 parts stores in town have broken ignition module testers...

Just heard the main relay making a sick clicky/buzzy sound. Might account for the completely erratic behavior of this...? Solder joints were fine from what I could see but the noise exists.

NOTE: Someone wired a toggle switch to one of the relay wires, maybe related? I have not looked up wire to see what it does yet.

Cheap enough to start with just replacing it first really.

Compression tests 150, 145, 160, 145 and I am willing to accept those figures as close enough to good for now.

Hang in there with me people, please. I need this fixed.

 

For me anyway, I've been reading it & I don't disagree with PA's advice. There's some benefit to having the same guy follow through without 47 additional postings that don't add anything new.

 

If you've checked everything mechanical, it could be an ECU issue.