Squeeking suspension
#1
11-30-2007 | 05:03 PM
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
Squeeking suspension
I've been experiencing a squeeking from the right front wheel ever since I had my rotors sanded down (after warpage). When the mechanic sanded them, he had to attach a machine to the car, as the rotors are not the pop-off variety. Also, it'll make the same squeek/creek when I turn the steering wheel. It doesn't happen all the time. If I try to rock the car up and down by pressing on the right-front fender, it makes the sound.
It seems to only occur at low speeds (0-40 mph), and kind of dissapears on the highway, but when it's really squeeking in traffic, it'll even make a loud creek when I take my foot off the brake.
If anybody can give me some insight, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
It seems to only occur at low speeds (0-40 mph), and kind of dissapears on the highway, but when it's really squeeking in traffic, it'll even make a loud creek when I take my foot off the brake.
If anybody can give me some insight, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
#2
11-30-2007 | 07:09 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
RE: Squeeking suspension
Couple ball joints & rubber bushings down there. You're lucky it makes the noise when you push on the fender.
The first thing would be to get someone to bounce it for you. Get your head down close to pinpoint the location of the sound. Out near the tire? Inboard a ways?
Ball joints at top & bottom of steering knuckle?
Sway bar bushing?
Rubber bushings at lower control arm, radius rods, etc??
The first thing would be to get someone to bounce it for you. Get your head down close to pinpoint the location of the sound. Out near the tire? Inboard a ways?
Ball joints at top & bottom of steering knuckle?
Sway bar bushing?
Rubber bushings at lower control arm, radius rods, etc??
#3
11-30-2007 | 07:54 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15,995
From: Houston, TX
RE: Squeeking suspension
sway bar endlinks are common sources of squeaking along with the two bushings on the sway bar.
You can remove the swaybar endlinks (pretty easy to do on an accord) and push down on the bumper. If the squeak is gone, replace the endlinks and two bushings. There is a writeup in the DIY section to replace the bushings.
You can remove the swaybar endlinks (pretty easy to do on an accord) and push down on the bumper. If the squeak is gone, replace the endlinks and two bushings. There is a writeup in the DIY section to replace the bushings.
#5
12-01-2007 | 04:41 AM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 14
From:
RE: Squeeking suspension
I had the exact same problem, and it also squeeked when I turned the steering wheel (another good indication its the lower ball joints). For the 1994 accords though I believe the lower ball joints are really difficult to press out and get the new ones in, think you have to press out the hub assembly to access it. Don't know for sure, but if youre looking to replace the lower ball joints, and if u have the time and money, get the uppers too, probably not far behind in failing. I replaced all 4 of them and it steers like a new car.
#6
12-01-2007 | 10:33 AM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 701
From: Chicago, IL
RE: Squeeking suspension
on some 94s you have to knock the wheel bearing out of the knuckle a few millimeters to gain clearance to shock(air hammer or large hammer with chisel) the lower ball joint out the knuckle. it's fairly easy to do with with the car 8 feet in the air, probably not so much on jack stands!
then you can use a hammer to knock it back in(not my preferred method) or a commercially available balljoint installing tool( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Autom...spagenameZWDVW)
shop around if your going to diy!
butbe sure you have it properly diagnosed before you invest in tools and parts. you can also invest in a mechanics stethoscope to try and find the are where the noise is coming from. i'd suggest boucning the car to make the noise happen. if you make the noise happen by turning the steering wheel it's possible the gearbox mounting bushings can be making noise - although it's very rare for me. only had that one time.
then you can use a hammer to knock it back in(not my preferred method) or a commercially available balljoint installing tool( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Autom...spagenameZWDVW)
shop around if your going to diy!
butbe sure you have it properly diagnosed before you invest in tools and parts. you can also invest in a mechanics stethoscope to try and find the are where the noise is coming from. i'd suggest boucning the car to make the noise happen. if you make the noise happen by turning the steering wheel it's possible the gearbox mounting bushings can be making noise - although it's very rare for me. only had that one time.
#7
12-01-2007 | 03:34 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15,995
From: Houston, TX
RE: Squeeking suspension
You don't have to remove the hub to do the lower ball joint. Here is a writeup from TexasHonda from another forum on his experience on changing that ball joint.
Because of a rush to work, I improperly used my Tie-Rod End Lifter tool and damaged the stud on the lower ball joint on my daughter's 97 Acura 2.2CL. There is no way to chase the threads w/ a die since the ball rotates and any attempts to restrain will damage the stud threads or lower wedge end. So I had to replace the ball joint w/ a new part.
Acura did not have the part in stock but Honda had a cross-over part (they willingly find Honda parts that fit Acuras).
I was aware of the first problem for this job; removing the ball joint from the knuckle. The ball joint press tools (huge C-clamp w/ large washers and receiver tubes) readily available as loaners will not work due to complex shape of the lower knuckle around the ball joint. There are special adapters available to enable use of the C-clamp tool, but no one has them except machine shops.
My plan was to use a local machine shop to press old ball joint out and install new ball joint. Shop is very good, but very busy and sometimes you have to wait. I went by today to have this job done and they couldn't get to it today. I wanted to finish today, so I decided to try myself before putting the job off.
I picked up the large ball joint C-clamp press from my local O'Riellys and went home to see what I could do. I had heard that some have simply hammered the ball joint from the knuckle, presumably by driving the stud. I looked at the problem and first removed the boot. This revealed a heavy flat lower ring that presented a nice drive surface. I used a 1" impact socket to slip over the ball joint stud and bear against this lower ring of the ball joint. A few firm licks w/ a 3-lb hammer on the 1" socket and the ball joint was out. Wow, this was going to be easy!
Next, I had to install the new ball joint. My initial thought was to pound it in using the reverse of removal. Ball joint upper surface presents a nice drive surface. However the upper knuckle prevents a direct blow from the hammer and this approach just won't work.
So I decided to try the special C-clamp press. This appeared straight-forward and the knuckle shape does not interfere w/ pressing the ball joint into place. The fixed end of the C-clamp engages top side of the ball joint while a receiver tube and washer allow the lower drive end to react against the underside of the knuckle. I found that a large (2-3/8") socket made a better receiver than the tube in the set. The torque required to drive the massive C-clamp press is substantial (probably 100-150 ft-lbs). I had to anchor the knuckle in a vise to provide adequate restraint and allow me to really bear down on my breaker bar and socket to turn the C-clamp bolt. However, this worked well and the ball joint was pushed into place.
I found that my ball joint retainer nut was also damaged (attempts to engage damaged ball joint stud) and had to make a second trip to Honda to get a replacement nut.
In summary, ball joint replacment is w/i capability of diy w/o extraordinary effort, but requires a ball joint press to press the new ball joint into place.
regards
Acura did not have the part in stock but Honda had a cross-over part (they willingly find Honda parts that fit Acuras).
I was aware of the first problem for this job; removing the ball joint from the knuckle. The ball joint press tools (huge C-clamp w/ large washers and receiver tubes) readily available as loaners will not work due to complex shape of the lower knuckle around the ball joint. There are special adapters available to enable use of the C-clamp tool, but no one has them except machine shops.
My plan was to use a local machine shop to press old ball joint out and install new ball joint. Shop is very good, but very busy and sometimes you have to wait. I went by today to have this job done and they couldn't get to it today. I wanted to finish today, so I decided to try myself before putting the job off.
I picked up the large ball joint C-clamp press from my local O'Riellys and went home to see what I could do. I had heard that some have simply hammered the ball joint from the knuckle, presumably by driving the stud. I looked at the problem and first removed the boot. This revealed a heavy flat lower ring that presented a nice drive surface. I used a 1" impact socket to slip over the ball joint stud and bear against this lower ring of the ball joint. A few firm licks w/ a 3-lb hammer on the 1" socket and the ball joint was out. Wow, this was going to be easy!
Next, I had to install the new ball joint. My initial thought was to pound it in using the reverse of removal. Ball joint upper surface presents a nice drive surface. However the upper knuckle prevents a direct blow from the hammer and this approach just won't work.
So I decided to try the special C-clamp press. This appeared straight-forward and the knuckle shape does not interfere w/ pressing the ball joint into place. The fixed end of the C-clamp engages top side of the ball joint while a receiver tube and washer allow the lower drive end to react against the underside of the knuckle. I found that a large (2-3/8") socket made a better receiver than the tube in the set. The torque required to drive the massive C-clamp press is substantial (probably 100-150 ft-lbs). I had to anchor the knuckle in a vise to provide adequate restraint and allow me to really bear down on my breaker bar and socket to turn the C-clamp bolt. However, this worked well and the ball joint was pushed into place.
I found that my ball joint retainer nut was also damaged (attempts to engage damaged ball joint stud) and had to make a second trip to Honda to get a replacement nut.
In summary, ball joint replacment is w/i capability of diy w/o extraordinary effort, but requires a ball joint press to press the new ball joint into place.
regards
#8
12-01-2007 | 05:07 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 701
From: Chicago, IL
RE: Squeeking suspension
on some of them shocking the ball joint out without moving the wheel bearing a few millimeters out will cause it to damage the lower corner of the wheel bearing. it's minor, but it might cause a wheel bearing noise sooner than later.
by loosening the four bolts a few turns, you take a suitable driver to hit the outer race of the bearing to knock it back a few millimeters. then you have a clear shot removing and installing the bearing. after replacement simply torque down the bearing assembly. (33lb ft)
that 2.2l CL might have a slightly different knuckle.
by loosening the four bolts a few turns, you take a suitable driver to hit the outer race of the bearing to knock it back a few millimeters. then you have a clear shot removing and installing the bearing. after replacement simply torque down the bearing assembly. (33lb ft)
that 2.2l CL might have a slightly different knuckle.
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