The right lower ball joint just started squeeking when I hit a dip or a bump.
Sprayed some PB blaster at it and it stopped for now.

Let it go or replace it?

Looks like a 25$ part, but I would need to pay one of our techs a little on the side to change it.

 

Replace, because if the ball joint seizes and breaks, you are in a lot of trouble.

 

My opinion:
Replace NOW.

I had one squeek intermittently like that for 3 months and I replaced it. The second one squeaked worse and lasted less than a month. By some miracle it broke apart at a very low speed. Then came the nightmare...

Check out my thread on it:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/Aft..._109892/tm.htm

btw: I can't imagine this happening at high speed, the effect would be catastrophic.

Best case at highway speeds: Upper control assembly, drive axle assembly, wheel bearing, ball-joint, front bumper, quarter panel...

Remove both the spindles, take them to a trusted shop, have them turn or replace your rotors while they're at it. It will cost you $400 including wheel bearings (must be removed to remove ball joint) but will be far better than the alternative.

 

The wheel bearings do not have to be removed to replace a ball joint. You can remove the knuckle (with hub/bearing/rotor still attached) and the ball joint can be pressed out.

 

Maybe yours don't but it's something to watch out for. I get the impression that a 4cyl uses a different bearing set or something but I've never worked on one.

On my last three 5th Gen 6 cyl accords the ball-joint couldn't be pressed up and out of the spindle without moving the wheel bearings out of the way.

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about from my current '95
http://picasaweb.google.com/2bmatthe...13540412372754

I've done this job myself a few times, I take the spindle in to the dealership and have them do the press work though.
Kinda funny, I've watched a couple guys try pressing the knuckle first then getting it in the way, or try to put the bearings back in first and then have to take them out again and so forth... Been there, done that.

 

Ugh. That was my fear about this car. The rotors are pressed on?
Worst design ever!

 

The rotors are a pain to remove, but you don't have to remove the rotors or the hub/bearing. The rotor isn't really pressed into the knuckle, it is bolted to the hub by five bolts that you can see from the front. The bearing is bolted to the knuckle from behind with four bolts (you can see one of the in the link 5th gen posted). You should be able to unbolt the bearing, but the bearing typically gets stuck to the knuckle due to rust. There are several methods to remove the bearing, and I can describe them if you want that info.

5th gen, I have the same exact setup. The axle needs to be removed to take out the hub, but the bearing/hub/rotor doesn't need to be removed.

If you are planning on using the ball joint press that you can rent from Autozone (basically a big c-clamp): The bearing is not in the way when pressing the new ball joint into the knuckle, but it is in the way when removing the ball joint. You need an adapter for the big c-clamp press that has a notch cut out. Read what TexasHonda wrote in this post https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_88415/tm.htm. I didn't have the vice to do this, but that is exactly what the guy at the garage did to install the new ball joint.

 

I was just complaining about the rotor setup for future brake jobs.
I work at the counter at a Goodyear store, I will pay a tech after hours to do it for me.
Its alittle more than I want to tackle. We do have a press on hand tho.

 

Ok, Ball joint done
Front rotors, calipers, pads
Rear rotors, and pads
200 in parts
100 cash to the tech who spent just under 3 hours working on it tonight after work.

Well worth it imo. No issues at all either, I was worried about the bearings being the parts stores were already closed.


Thanks all for the input!