I made a video of what its doing...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VV3xO35qHn8

I just got heat synk around ICM... ran about 20 mins... stalls, wont start back up for 10 or so minutes or untill cel goes off.

No codes when service wires shorted.

Whats to check next?

 

Is your car and automatic or a manual transmission?

 

You should also pick up a volt meter for ~$10 at a discount store. When that check engine light stays turned on. Turn the key to the II position and leave it there. Use the volt meter to check that the blk/yel wire going to both the distributor and the coil has 12V to ground (use a valve cover bolt).

 

I'll get a meter on Thursday... payday. Should have bought one long time ago.

So what is happening next if the black and yellow wire don't have the 12 volts? Replace entire distributor, or more parts inside of it? What makes the wire not have the volts/ die out and stall?

I will pull my main relay tonight, and check/ resoder anything that looks suspect... it will need done anyway at some point...

Great car for 500 bucks.. hut I think I know why they let her go so cheap LOL. This trial and error tuff is for the birds...

Thanks all for the help! I'm seriously excited to get this ride on the road with no issues!

BTW, tyranny is an automatic, I believe stuck in limp life...2nd and 4th gear only atm.. gonna have to soder in some new resistors...

 

Lol my phone is retarded... limp mode.. limp life.. LOL

 

The ignition switch is the source of the power for the blk/yel wire that powers the ICM and coil.

This is a lesson to diagnose the problem before replacing parts.

 

If you are using predictive text, you can hit the # or the * button to use a different word with the same number combination.

So the shop told you the blk/yel wire had issues? Can you call the shop and find out what they meant by that? Also ask them for as much information as possible about why the car was brought in, what repairs were done, did they have more repairs lined up? You mentioned transmission repair in your other post, but what did they do?

The ECU you used was for an automatic. I just saw on your video that the e-brake light was on (was the e-brake pulled up?) and didn't see PRND4... on the gauge. Do those gauge lights work for the gear selector?

 

No I read that... Read on here, that sometimes if your car stalls, to check the black and yellow wire for 12v, because it has issues. You have just explained that the ICM sends the juice to the coil... thanks... This whole time I thought the ICM was the Ignitor/coil.. Ignition control module.. Ive been tired last few days.. I have not replaced the ICM. Ive jiggled and wiggled the key in ignition but it dont do nothing to the car while its runnig.

A shop had the car, and was selling it... they put in/ replaced tranny with a junkyard tranny for their customer, and the guy didnt want to pay for it, so they sold the car to pay for repairs.

I FULLY understand to diagnose problems before replacing parts... Thats like the 5th time I have been told that. I just simply realize its a 21 year old junker *** car, and if i want to make it somewhat decent, I might as well just replace things that MIGHT be broken. Maybe Ill find the issue, and bam she will be working. Junk yard parts are exactly that, junk. So it not like Im throwin too much money at it, more just time and labor, but worth it for the expierence, and fun. Im here for help...

My dashboard does NOT have the PRND4321 guage. I have seen models with that, but mine is not one of them. Yes the ebrake was on, I was parked, and have a habit of setting ebrake.

 

I think that you may have an instrument cluster in there for a MT accord. The problem I see is that you can't watch the S light or the D4 light flash TCU code(s).

I think that your TCU (next to the ECU) has a window with an LED where you can count flashes like you have done on the dash for the CEL. See if the TCU and ECU led will flash you a code.

Also, the ICM is inside of the distributor and has 4 wires connected to it. The coil is outside of the distributor (on an LX model) and has the spark plug wire that connects to the distributor cap. What part did you replace?

As for the diagnose before replacing... I thought that you were getting mad for throwing parts at it. We are just trying to give you tests to do, so you can narrow down the problem.