As far as I could tell yeah, I soaked the whole thing in water and checked to see if water would run through. I didnt have a pipe cleaner or anything I could use on the inside. That wouldnt make my intake hotter though would it?


You can kinda see here, you can at least see the extent of my cleaning. This was from a junk yard off a 99.
http://s1014.beta.photobucket.com/us...ml?sort=3&o=23

 

EGR only operates when the engine is warm; that's why I was asking.

Your pic #22 shows the exhaust runner from the point that the manifold attaches to the head to the EGR valve, then from the valve to the plenum. An easy way to check that they're open is to apply vacuum to the EGR valve with the engine idling. If it stalls or at least runs really rough then the EGR passages are open. A bore brush from a .22 cleaning kit does a nice job on those passages.

 

A bore brush- ok, Ill try that. Ill check out if its the EGR.

And what about the IACV? When I did the swap I originally cut the coolant nipples down so that they wouldnt hit the TPS. I'm wondering if the IACV is so fragile that is was damaged in the process. Or is the EGR a safer bet?

 

I hacksawed and brazed the IACV. Didn't seem to harm it a bit. All it does is control the idle speed so I'm guessing it has nothing to do with your throttle response problem.

Regarding intake temps, you replaced the manifold with another Honda manifold, one that came from a virtually identical engine; it just flows a little better. I wouldn't think there's be any air temp issues using it.

Fuel pressure in spec? Autozone loans pressure testers out for free.

 

Yeah I tried getting the fuel pressure before but failed cuz of a bunch of stuff. I should try it again.


Excuse this ramble but it helps me solve this problem in my head and you can get more of an idea of what ive done...

IACV I have read can still affect performance. I guess if its open wider than it is suppose to be there is more 'un-monitored' air passing through.

I cleaned the EGR today, it was already pretty clear and it works fine. The intake temp read 78 degrees while the IM temp read 120.

I did a seafoam treatment, made a pretty big difference once the engine cleared out but its still missing something...

When I poured the seafoam into the intake once the smoke started some of it came from the engine bay behind the IM. I am pretty sure it wasnt spill off on something hot, I think maybe the downpipe is leaking at the cat converter or something. Although ive gone through and re-sealed everything. although with any exhaust leak before the downstream sensor I would get a CEL right?

I'm gonna check it out once I change my oil. My hopes arent high but its worth it. I guess it would explain the hot vs cold issue if put into relation with the o2 sensor. But then again, theres never been a CEL and the o2 sensors are relatively new.

Fuel pressure I will check after.
Thanks.

 

So I finally found the name of it and this helps describe what my car had but is missing.

After I do certain mods Id drive it out and I would get cherry bombs around 4000rpm. I'm trying to get that sound again. Never comes back really. With that the car would drive great. Maybe it is the exhaust...

 

Bro i just read like 2 pages of puke and did't get a single bit of information about your problem.
Start with saying what your issue is
Year of car
Engine
Codes if any
Total List of Mods
The ENTIRE history of what you did to try and fix whatever you are trying to fix

I have the entire ALLData database I can look and help you with, but atm I have no clue what you are even fixing.

 

I have other threads that touch on the issue and the people you see commenting have helped before. But id gladly vomit more out for you
97 accord ex 5 speed
f22b1 (you can see by my signature)
no codes at all
f23 IM, tb spacer, cai, 421 header, catback 2.5" exhaust

throttle response is great when the car is cold, dies down when the car has been warm for a few miles. Thats all in the very beginning.

No vacuum leaks found. suspected exhaust leak but unlikely, new upstream o2 sensor, tp sensor and map sensor.

 

is there a diff between load and not load response while warm?

How did you check for vaccum leaks?

 

You mean the ecu's readings on % load or my butt dyno?

and I checked using a propane torch several times, checking for a change in rpms. If theres a leak it could be when the car moves so the engine shifts position slightly. for that i have a way to test it but its not gonna ensure i find a leak if there is one. and again, theres never been a cel. I wouldve gotten a lean code.