I think I have posted this before on your previous thread, please dont make new threads regarding same issue, just bump them and someone will help you.

Regarding response, I mean put the car in neutral and rev the motor while warm, hows the response? Same as if you were driving?

Idk how you manage to check anything with a torch, I would just do what I said in your previous thread and hook up a vacuum gauge to the manifold, and run the car. See if there is a drop in vacuum under load. you can rent this guage, or buy from HF.

If your car is bucking under acceleration its spark, but if you are getting **** throttle response throughout the continuous range and you replaced your tps and maf, there is obviously unmetered air or excess fuel in the system. A vaccum test will eliminate the air part. Please do this and post back.

 

Yeah I didnt know I could bump threads. Someones gonna have to show me how.
Maybe these will help describe it
Allusion:
Its more of a load issue. The car feels fine when its in neutral. Imagine if you had a full car compared to if you had an empty car. Its not exactly "throttle response" but just pushing on the throttle and theres air flowing through but its not the same as its been at other random times. The good response occurs most often after the car has been sitting for a while.

Scenario:
Ill notice like at a light when a car next to me takes off, my car wont take off as fast as the other without the rpms going much higher than im sure they have it. I know my car has been modded for more high end performance, but sometimes Ill get times with my car will accelerate nicely without high rpms and all the noise. I can shift in lower rpms because i know I have enough torque to get up to speed nicely.

With the torch, since propane is combustible, I just fed it around the IM as suggested. I tried the TB cleaner too. Nothing I could find. I'm getting about 20 mpgs/city which could mean that there is excess fuel.

I should mention the grounding kit. I tried a grounding kit and it made a huge difference. But then it went away. So I thought it was the ECU. No results when resetting the ECU.

Ill look into both a fuel pressure test and vacuum test. Ill shop around.

Wouldnt unmetered air cause a CEL eventually? It never has with this issue.

 

First gen obd2 is relatively stupid, and without a legit scanner you are't going to know what is going on. if you get **** milage, its obvious that you arehaving a rich condition present. Either due to unmetered air, or excess fuel. I would check vaccum first properly.
Also, whats your exhaust setup?

 

Bumping a thread is very easy. Just reply to your own thread, then it gets moved to the top of the list. Sometimes a thread will get pushed far enough down the list where it gets lost from active threads.

The propane method is using an unlit propane torch. There is an ericthecarguy video on this on YouTube.

Have you checked for exhaust leaks? There is an ericthecarguy video on this as well.

 

Oh, ok. I understand the bumping part now :P

Vacuum test I have found a pretty good way to tell as smoke machines are very expensive. Last resort would be to take it to a mechanic.

As far as exhaust leaks go, I suspect one a bit more but am not entirely sure. Ive felt around but am going to check again once I change my oil. As stated earlier, when I used seafoam, I saw smoke coming up through the engine bay but I couldnt tell if it was coming from the exhaust or just bit of run off dripped down and burning on the exhaust. If it is it would be the connection from my downpipe to the cat converter. I had sealed that but perhaps its opened up again. The seafoam was last night so this is a new discovery that im hoping will solve the issue.

But wouldnt I get a CEL for these? Leak between the o2 sensors or a vacuum leak? Or is there no code for a vacuum leak if the fuel trim appears normal to the computer? (being cancelled out by the air matching the fuel by the map sensor regardless of the tps or iacv)

 

you are obviously experiencing a rich condition.

is your exhaust that loud that you cannot hear it leak?

 

Exhaust sounds like a ricer exhaust.
Ive been fighting with it a bit since I got it and I thought I had it to a point where it was all good. I had to redo the gasket between the header and the downpipe cuz that had tripped a code a long time ago.

But I havent had any codes since so I never thought the exhaust would start leaking again without me knowing.

Ill check it out tomorrow if the weather is good enough.

 

Exhaust leak won't trip the CEL just by itself. The leaking exhaust can blow over the outside of the sensor, throwing off the measurement. THAT can trip the CEL when the O2 sensor signal doesn't make sense together with all the other sensors.

 

So if there is a leak it will be around the downpipe and cat. That, however, is prime location for the sensors to catch it. But I guess its worth a shot. How much do mechanics usually charge to smoke test the intake and exhaust? I might resort to that.

 

Im looking at the FSM and im still resorting back to the IACV. Maybe a leak near there. Although I did an oil change, I was rather low on oil and tightened the IACV a little bit, it didnt have a lot of give to make a difference from what I thought. But my car has been driving a lot better. At first it felt really weird as I though the clutch was gonna drop from under the car from the way it was driving. But the throttle response has stayed for a round trip while before itd go away after half a trip.
But my idle is still a bit peculiar.
I'm trying to find out, what should my manifold pressure be at idle? Is there a formula?