So I have been having a problem where my car will have almost no power, even when pushing the throttle to the ground, for about 2 seconds after it goes into closed loop. It sometimes surges or it sometimes just does not put out any power when accelerating. It only happens then though, when switching. The problem has gotten worse and then better. But its still happening.

I suspect the MAP sensor. Theres no check engine light though and never has been. O2 sensors are aftermarket and their readings seem fine except the upstream sometimes goes above 1volt.

I've been looking everywhere to solve this issue (except take it to a mechanic, im trying to avoid that cuz I have no money).

Anyone with a 97 Accord know what their typical readings should be?
I have an Ultra-gauge that monitors certain sensors.

One mechanic suggested the mods to my car are finally messing up the car. I'm not too sure about that but its an idea. I don't think a performance exhaust system and CAI would do anything bad right?

 

Having a hard time following you here.

What is your def of closed loop and how are you noting/knowing that? The car should only go into closed loop once.

What is this "switching" when it happens?

From there, can we assume the tune up items are up to date?

 

I have an Ultra-gauge so it tells me when my car is in closed or open loop. I was having this issue for a while and its been so random. But recently after a bit of maintenance the issue has been narrowed down to the transition from open to closed loop. Only once, yes. When I start the car up, drive to the end of the block and then the car goes into closed loop and the car will either surge or delay power (for a good two seconds). It doesn't happen so bad every time, but something like that always happens.
Everything is up to date except I am not too sure about the timing belt. However, my gauge shows the timing and the readings are fine. A mechanic has suggested cleaning out the IAC. However, I am weary of this since I have no check engine light and its rather hard to get to it.

Any ideas? It only happens when going into closed loop.

 

Well if you don't want to pull it to clean it you can "somewhat" clean it while on the car.

There is seafoam in a spray can with a nice long tube. With the car off, insert the tube into the port in the tb that leads to the IAC, get in there as far as you can (if memory is correct it is the lower port)........soak that joker with the seafoam. Let it sit for a few minutes, then start the car, oh yes it will smoke a little.

 

Ok, great. That seems like a good alternative. Thanks.

 

It may or may not work, so if it does not - do not think or say that you have cleaned it......we tried.

It helped me with the 89 LXi - had a code 14 for IAC. Worried about the o-ring, no longer available or I haven't found it online yet I didn't want to pull off a 23 year old o-ring with over 220K miles and cause issues but wanted to do something. So that is what I did, code gone for now and the idle is better....time will tell. I only drive that car about once a month so it will be some time before I really know.

 

Oh, well the issue with my car is that there is no code and my gauge shows no sign of a pending issue. The suggestion was the IAC. I'm not sure what else it could be though.

 

Any update on this? I also have the same problem going on kind of like that the car seems to have no power during soft press on pedal.

 

I did a manifold swap and it appears better. The IAC was a little clogged.
Yours may be you just need to tighten the throttle cables

 

Seem to stumble at low rpms - if an auto trans you might think first is giving up? Holding steady rpms of 1800~2200 get a "buck" from the engine?