Check if your throttle cable moves nice & easy. The cable is never supposed to be used to adjust the idle. Since you can pull up the pedal to help the idle drop, that tells me something is sticking. Either the pedal itself, or the cable has too much friction.

The throttle plate has to close completely, and the little screw adjustment on the throttle crank is used only to prevent it from getting wedged stuck closed. Then from that starting point, the base idle adjustment is done with the idle-air adjustment screw in the throttle body.

Sounds like quite a few things were rigged up in funny ways, all of which affected the idle somehow. Get them all sorted then go through the adjustment of the base idle - until you do that, it's hard to say what's causing the surging.

 

Thanks, it idle good before I cleaned everything, throttle bore was pretty dirty, taking apart again and see wet missed carbon got in plate on tps, tried blowing air through one egr port, nada came out other hole, so off come the port caps, also when I gas up, hear the heavy fuel pressure come out, normal? Oh and my speedo sensor is still messed up after cleaning, greasing. Slowing down takes forever to drop down to 0 after 30 mph mark.
thanks again.
keep all info in mind.

 

thanks again your response brought back the memory of the throttle cable being twisted when I took it off, so I took it off at pedal end, twisted cable with ease instead of fighting it to put on throttle body, then reattached to pedal, ha no idle surging or high idle. So instead of cleaning whatever, someone put a bb in egr hose, and twisted cable to adjust idle.
so far so good for me, slight shaking from egr system, that's next.

 

Its funny how much work someone will do just to avoid sorting it out the proper way. Twisting the cable & plugging the EGR hose was probably just as much work as doing it the right way.

 

no kidding.
did a Transmission drain and fill, was told maxlife was in there, so used again, shifted through all gears few times, smooth shifting, started engine, so far, 1/2 mile down the road, stopped checked, had to add little more, 10 mi shifting and running smooth, well except for the slight shaking from egr/ports, alot smoother than before cleaning throttle, iacv, and fitv.
set trip odometer drain and fill again 100 mi.
love this engine, body and interior in great shape, giving to daughter, who is eager to get her license.
thanks for the response.

 

well new cap and rotor, waiting on wires, possibly get a new egr, code 12 still pops up, starting to crank few more times than usual before starting, looking at ignition components, and fuel pump. I put a new fuel filter on and when I loosened feed nut to fuel rail no gas squirted out, just flowed lightly, could the strainer get clogged? Got good power, non hesitant on roads, etc, died couple few times at lights.
All the cleaning of parts, I dropped a egr bolt, on engine somewhere, while probing with a magnet I pulled this metal clip or something, anyone recognize it. Rectangular, has a hole in center, where the tang sticks out, looks like its been there a while, below the intake manifold, egr side.
thanks for the responses,
Mario.

 

Hmmm freaking motor mount actuator hose was disconnected. Hmmm.

 

Cant add video, but screenshot of fuel spraying out of inlet to fuel filter. Good spray, so clean fitv and iact again, then egr ports and repair/new egr, should fix intermittent dyeing, also soldered all pins on main relay, didn't see any visible damaged pins, hit em anyway with 40 watt solder gun and thin solder, relay was zip tied to metal bracket. Update after egr work.

 

Wasn't getting spark in number 2 cylinder, looked like black carbon between #2 and #4 inside the distributor, like it was missing its mark. No spark coming out of distributor either. Put old rotor back on, minimal spark out of distributor. Bought a new cap and rotor, still no change when number 2 wire pulled.
new ICM, fudge, no change, but you can hear the spark coming out now. Pulled plug, can't smell no fuel. Cranked engine couple times still no fuel smell.
cleaning the injectors this week. Concerned about fuel pressure, gushes out the loosened filter outlet connection when key on. Runs alot better with new ignition parts.
Sometimes when I take key out the key in chime sticks, have to reinsert key and pull it then chime pops Out to un stick it
would that be a time to replace the switch warning?
thanks for looking
Mario

 

If you have a hand-held vacuum pump, you can verify the EGR valve holds a vacuum. It should hold a vacuum.

You may want to inspect the vacuum hoses going from the EGR valve back to the egr vacuum control solenoid. The vacuum hoses could be rotted and not actually lifting the EGR valve at the proper time.