Surging
#21
If you have a hand-held vacuum pump, you can verify the EGR valve holds a vacuum. It should hold a vacuum.
You may want to inspect the vacuum hoses going from the EGR valve back to the egr vacuum control solenoid. The vacuum hoses could be rotted and not actually lifting the EGR valve at the proper time.
You may want to inspect the vacuum hoses going from the EGR valve back to the egr vacuum control solenoid. The vacuum hoses could be rotted and not actually lifting the EGR valve at the proper time.
thanks again
#22
This is from my 95 accord shop manual, so the setup should be the same, but the wire colors may be differnt.
The egr control solenoid has a blk/yel wire that should have 12V with the key in the II position. The red wire has to get a pulsed ground signal from the PCM, because I think the EGR valve can be opened partially depending on the engine conditions. I believe this would require an oscilloscope to be sure the ECU is controlling the EGR control solenoid.
I'll guess an unplugged control solenoid will default to off, because you don't want vacuum supplied to the EGR valve, because at idle, the car would stall out. Not having EGR is better, because the engine will run at all conditions, but NOx emissions suffer, and you will likely fail a yearly state vehicle inspection.
The egr control solenoid has a blk/yel wire that should have 12V with the key in the II position. The red wire has to get a pulsed ground signal from the PCM, because I think the EGR valve can be opened partially depending on the engine conditions. I believe this would require an oscilloscope to be sure the ECU is controlling the EGR control solenoid.
I'll guess an unplugged control solenoid will default to off, because you don't want vacuum supplied to the EGR valve, because at idle, the car would stall out. Not having EGR is better, because the engine will run at all conditions, but NOx emissions suffer, and you will likely fail a yearly state vehicle inspection.
#23
I'll guess an unplugged control solenoid will default to off, because you don't want vacuum supplied to the EGR valve, because at idle, the car would stall out. Not having EGR is better, because the engine will run at all conditions, but NOx emissions suffer, and you will likely fail a yearly state vehicle inspection.
thanks buddy, hey 94 egr vacuum control solenoid has a plug in harness, mine has male prongs on top, can I cut harness off 94, solder male prongs on it and plug it in. Or you think the open/close perimeters different.
thanks
Last edited by mrg2065; 03-20-2020 at 09:58 PM.
#24
hence shouldn't be a airleak blowing in either port.
thanks buddy, hey 94 egr vacuum control solenoid has a plug in harness, mine has male prongs on top, can I cut harness off 94, solder male prongs on it and plug it in. Or you think the open/close perimeters different.
thanks
thanks buddy, hey 94 egr vacuum control solenoid has a plug in harness, mine has male prongs on top, can I cut harness off 94, solder male prongs on it and plug it in. Or you think the open/close perimeters different.
thanks
#25
see what happens.
Stupid didn't measure prongs b4 putting on, got to take width down to plug in. New fuel filter from O'Reilly's, inlet threads were f'ed up, seemed a hair smaller, scuffed up trying to install, inlet wouldn't tighten all the way, put other one back on, probably try and tap this new one if not able to exchange
Last edited by mrg2065; 03-21-2020 at 07:31 PM.
#26
forgot about running seafoam through the tank, attempting to clean injectors, did it after new fuel filter put on, possibly clogged enough to interrupt flow to cylinder#2, don't know, so got a new filter and male quick disconnects.
see what happens.
Stupid didn't measure prongs b4 putting on, got to take width down to plug in. New fuel filter from O'Reilly's, inlet threads were f'ed up, seemed a hair smaller, scuffed up trying to install, inlet wouldn't tighten all the way, put other one back on, probably try and tap this new one if not able to exchange
see what happens.
Stupid didn't measure prongs b4 putting on, got to take width down to plug in. New fuel filter from O'Reilly's, inlet threads were f'ed up, seemed a hair smaller, scuffed up trying to install, inlet wouldn't tighten all the way, put other one back on, probably try and tap this new one if not able to exchange
looking..🤔
#27
Weak fuel pump, or clogged filter prevent last injector in firing order to get fuel?
Does a non leaking fpr mean its not faulty?
thanks for looking
Mario
#28
freaking pulled #2 plug, still here the spark while lifting out, but no change in rpms, pulled plug, dry black soot, put plug back started engine 30 seconds or so, pulled plug, dry, no fuel smell. I pulled the injector last week and cleaned using carb cleaner and a power source, cleaner sprayed through,
Weak fuel pump, or clogged filter prevent last injector in firing order to get fuel?
Does a non leaking fpr mean its not faulty?
thanks for looking
Mario
Weak fuel pump, or clogged filter prevent last injector in firing order to get fuel?
Does a non leaking fpr mean its not faulty?
thanks for looking
Mario
Nvm see why you have to get m12 -1.25 hose adapter for the testing end.
Last edited by mrg2065; 03-26-2020 at 04:38 PM.
#29
Firing order is cyclical, so firing order is not relevant. Injector 2 is in the middle of the block and will see the same fuel pressure as the other injectors. Fuel pressure isn't your problem.
You need to determine why injector 2 isn't working. A quick test is to switch injector 2 and 3, then see if the problem remains on cylinder 2 (electrical issue you'll need to troubleshot) or moved to cylinder 3 (pretty much indicates an injector problem).
You need to determine why injector 2 isn't working. A quick test is to switch injector 2 and 3, then see if the problem remains on cylinder 2 (electrical issue you'll need to troubleshot) or moved to cylinder 3 (pretty much indicates an injector problem).
#30
Firing order is cyclical, so firing order is not relevant. Injector 2 is in the middle of the block and will see the same fuel pressure as the other injectors. Fuel pressure isn't your problem.
You need to determine why injector 2 isn't working. A quick test is to switch injector 2 and 3, then see if the problem remains on cylinder 2 (electrical issue you'll need to troubleshot) or moved to cylinder 3 (pretty much indicates an injector problem).
You need to determine why injector 2 isn't working. A quick test is to switch injector 2 and 3, then see if the problem remains on cylinder 2 (electrical issue you'll need to troubleshot) or moved to cylinder 3 (pretty much indicates an injector problem).
somewhere the gasket failed in that area.got got coolant in my oil, never overheated little time I had it. So got timing belt, pulley, tensioner, just need balance belt, water pump and a head gasket, oil seals etc.
Thanks again.