tail lights and dash lights
#4
1. Check/re-check the number 32 fuse (15A) in the under-hood fuse box. If the fuse is blown, then there is probably a short in the circuit. If the fuse is okay, then it may be an open in the circuit; an open is an interruption in the flow of current in the circuit.
2. Do you have a voltmeter? Check that there is power on both sides of the No. 32 fuse.
3.Power from the No. 32 fuse goes through a Red/Grn wire to connect to a 20-P Blue connector (C413) and the Combination Light Switch, and then to a Red/Blk wire that has various splices along the harness to provide power to the dash lights, taillights, and other small lights.
The blue 20-P connector (C413) is located above the left kick panel. This is a common area where the problem may be at.
Testing where the problem may be:
Backprobing:
If you have a voltmeter, you can test a few wires at the various wire connectors to narrow down the area of issue(s). You will want to backprobe a few wires. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...%5D-t-pins-jpg
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...back-probe-jpg
At Connector 413 – a 20P Blue Connector located under the driver’s side dash (with connector connected), with the voltmeter’s black lead touching chassis/body metal ground, use the voltmeter’s red lead to backprobe the Red/Blk wire at Connector 413. There should be ~ 12 volts at the Red/Blk wire with the combination light switch turned on (i.e., parking lights or headlights on). (Red/Blk wire should be a wire with red color insulation and a blk stripe.)
If there is power (+) there, then we can do further testing after you post your results.
2. Do you have a voltmeter? Check that there is power on both sides of the No. 32 fuse.
3.Power from the No. 32 fuse goes through a Red/Grn wire to connect to a 20-P Blue connector (C413) and the Combination Light Switch, and then to a Red/Blk wire that has various splices along the harness to provide power to the dash lights, taillights, and other small lights.
The blue 20-P connector (C413) is located above the left kick panel. This is a common area where the problem may be at.
Testing where the problem may be:
Backprobing:
If you have a voltmeter, you can test a few wires at the various wire connectors to narrow down the area of issue(s). You will want to backprobe a few wires. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...%5D-t-pins-jpg
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...back-probe-jpg
At Connector 413 – a 20P Blue Connector located under the driver’s side dash (with connector connected), with the voltmeter’s black lead touching chassis/body metal ground, use the voltmeter’s red lead to backprobe the Red/Blk wire at Connector 413. There should be ~ 12 volts at the Red/Blk wire with the combination light switch turned on (i.e., parking lights or headlights on). (Red/Blk wire should be a wire with red color insulation and a blk stripe.)
If there is power (+) there, then we can do further testing after you post your results.
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