Take your pick: clicking noise, wiring issue?, clutch not disengaging, etc. etc...
#1
Take your pick: clicking noise, wiring issue?, clutch not disengaging, etc. etc...
I have a '97 Honda Accord LX, manual transmission with 105,000 miles on it. I have two issues (well, more like three of my MAIN issues. . . because this car is driving me crazy).
Today it just started making a clicking sound like the turn signal bulb is about to burn out but neither light is flashing. When I turn my turn signal on though, the clicking is normal, then goes back to rapidly clicking when the signal is off. Same thing happens if I turn on my hazards. Both the hazards and the turn signal lights work properly as well. One thing I noticed though is my running lights sort of dim a little when I'm not doing anything, just idling. I know there has to be a wiring issue because for one, my radio likes to randomly stop working. I don't know if it's related but sometimes it seems like when I shift or brake, it will shut off and then gradually fade back to normal. If I push down on the shifter or wiggle it, sometimes it will come back on....lol I know it sounds weird but are there wires that run underneath the shifter that can affect the radio and/or any of the signals? (PS: I have subs in my trunk that were wired by a friend... I know that the wires were run along the underside of the hood, into the door frame, and underneath the door molding and into the trunk... so whether or not that affects anything I don't know but thought I would add that)
Also, I just had my clutch replaced by a friend's dad who is a mechanic (although mostly an auto body repairman). He is super meticulous and has excellent workmanship in everything he does. BUT... another problem I am having is my clutch now does not disengage randomly. I noticed it soon after he replaced it when it seemed like my car was revving more than usual when shifting and I had to lift up more on the pedal to get it to disengage. But then it went back to normal and I forgot about it until it started to do it more frequently to the point where about a week ago, I couldn't get it to disengage at all. It would rev but I couldn't go up hills or move forward (unless of course going downhill...). My friend tried all kinds of things and eventually pulled up on the clutch pedal itself. It didn't really move much but when she pulled up and to the side slightly, the clutch suddenly worked again. I haven't had that extreme of a problem lately but it still does it a little, where it won't disengage completely or something and revs a lot but will still accelerate. Oh, and there is also a rattling noise ever since the clutch (and brake pads) were replaced. He said it's probably the heat shield because he I guess had a problem with it or it was hard to reattach exactly as it was . . . ? I don't know. It does it while idling and also while driving. Can it just be cut off? What is the heat shield for exactly...?
Ugh. Sorry for all the questions...
Today it just started making a clicking sound like the turn signal bulb is about to burn out but neither light is flashing. When I turn my turn signal on though, the clicking is normal, then goes back to rapidly clicking when the signal is off. Same thing happens if I turn on my hazards. Both the hazards and the turn signal lights work properly as well. One thing I noticed though is my running lights sort of dim a little when I'm not doing anything, just idling. I know there has to be a wiring issue because for one, my radio likes to randomly stop working. I don't know if it's related but sometimes it seems like when I shift or brake, it will shut off and then gradually fade back to normal. If I push down on the shifter or wiggle it, sometimes it will come back on....lol I know it sounds weird but are there wires that run underneath the shifter that can affect the radio and/or any of the signals? (PS: I have subs in my trunk that were wired by a friend... I know that the wires were run along the underside of the hood, into the door frame, and underneath the door molding and into the trunk... so whether or not that affects anything I don't know but thought I would add that)
Also, I just had my clutch replaced by a friend's dad who is a mechanic (although mostly an auto body repairman). He is super meticulous and has excellent workmanship in everything he does. BUT... another problem I am having is my clutch now does not disengage randomly. I noticed it soon after he replaced it when it seemed like my car was revving more than usual when shifting and I had to lift up more on the pedal to get it to disengage. But then it went back to normal and I forgot about it until it started to do it more frequently to the point where about a week ago, I couldn't get it to disengage at all. It would rev but I couldn't go up hills or move forward (unless of course going downhill...). My friend tried all kinds of things and eventually pulled up on the clutch pedal itself. It didn't really move much but when she pulled up and to the side slightly, the clutch suddenly worked again. I haven't had that extreme of a problem lately but it still does it a little, where it won't disengage completely or something and revs a lot but will still accelerate. Oh, and there is also a rattling noise ever since the clutch (and brake pads) were replaced. He said it's probably the heat shield because he I guess had a problem with it or it was hard to reattach exactly as it was . . . ? I don't know. It does it while idling and also while driving. Can it just be cut off? What is the heat shield for exactly...?
Ugh. Sorry for all the questions...
#2
You have a quite a bit of stuff going on, so lets start with the simple stuff. Whenever there are odd electrical problems, I suggest to disconnect the battery, and clean all ends of both battery cables with a wire brush or sand paper. Then reconnect the battery.
I would also have the battery/alternator/starter tested at the parts store. Most parts stores do this as a free service.
Go to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Open the online shop manual link and get the 94 shop manual as a free pdf. It is almost identical to the 97 accord.
I would also have the battery/alternator/starter tested at the parts store. Most parts stores do this as a free service.
Go to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Open the online shop manual link and get the 94 shop manual as a free pdf. It is almost identical to the 97 accord.
#3
You can't get the clutch to disengage? But the description sounds like the opposite.
Just for terminology sake, you press down the pedal to disengage the clutch. Let the pedal up to engage.
So if it won't disengage, it might be a hydraulic problem. Clarify what it does then we can go on from there.
Just for terminology sake, you press down the pedal to disengage the clutch. Let the pedal up to engage.
So if it won't disengage, it might be a hydraulic problem. Clarify what it does then we can go on from there.
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