Temperature Rheostat - 2 questions
#1
Temperature Rheostat - 2 questions
On a 95 Honda, is it the norm for the temperature rheostat to click as opposed to move smoothly? I mean, on some cars I have had, you turn it and it has just a bit of friction, but with this 95 I can hear it/feel it click.
OK, second part of the question - even when I have the temp rheostat all the way to the left, cold setting, the heater is blowing warm air - gets hotter as I move clockwise, but never quite blows without some warmth. My AC needs a recharge, so it is not working, but I am talking about operation of the temp without the AC engaged. Did this when it was around 70 outside both with air from outside and recirculation.
Thanks in advance for yet another question on my "new" 95 Accord. Mike
OK, second part of the question - even when I have the temp rheostat all the way to the left, cold setting, the heater is blowing warm air - gets hotter as I move clockwise, but never quite blows without some warmth. My AC needs a recharge, so it is not working, but I am talking about operation of the temp without the AC engaged. Did this when it was around 70 outside both with air from outside and recirculation.
Thanks in advance for yet another question on my "new" 95 Accord. Mike
#2
techy response is temperature reostat doesn't work for me.
you must mean the temp control dial? ... this works a cable going to a valve.
If so, my 'new-to-me' '97 has same issue.
at this point I'm guessing the design is flawed on full-range temp control adjustment.
you must mean the temp control dial? ... this works a cable going to a valve.
If so, my 'new-to-me' '97 has same issue.
at this point I'm guessing the design is flawed on full-range temp control adjustment.
#3
Yes, the temperature control dial.
#4
Look into setting/adjusting the blend door
Consult the manual, you can get a copy in the Common DIY Threads. Basically there are two cables, one from the **** to the blend door another from the door to the heater valve. Every now and then they need adjustment......did my 95 about two weeks ago with the change from "winter" to "summer"
Consult the manual, you can get a copy in the Common DIY Threads. Basically there are two cables, one from the **** to the blend door another from the door to the heater valve. Every now and then they need adjustment......did my 95 about two weeks ago with the change from "winter" to "summer"
#5
AAHHH - so is this an annual change of seasons thingy for you?
#6
I do it at the "change of the season" to be sure I get the "most" out of the two sides....In the summer I want all the air off the evap, no heat off the heater core to reduce the ac performance.....and then the other side in the winter-except the ac part as the 5th gens do not run the ac on defrost. Sometimes nothing needs to be changed, if it does, well it takes me all of ten minutes to adjust them as I can get my hand down to the heater control valve without removing anything and I've removed the "cover" on the pass side under dash (I don't ride over there so I never notice )
#7
AAHHH - so is this an annual change of seasons thingy for you?
POORMAN212: Sometimes nothing needs to be changed, if it does, well it takes me all of ten minutes to adjust them as I can get my hand down to the heater control valve without removing anything and I've removed the "cover" on the pass side under dash (I don't ride over there so I never notice )
POORMAN212: Sometimes nothing needs to be changed, if it does, well it takes me all of ten minutes to adjust them as I can get my hand down to the heater control valve without removing anything and I've removed the "cover" on the pass side under dash (I don't ride over there so I never notice )
I'm going to need to learn how to do this since new-to-me '97 has no full range hot
to full cold on dial. SO, POORMAN212, YOU'RE SPEAKING TO ME, THANKS.
[Now is middle of night - not looking - and leaving tomorrow for time w/ son,
but if you have any further tips / directions - they will be used on return, thanks!]
#8
The procedure calls for removing the "clamps" that hold the cable and re-positioning them....
Inside the car there are two. The other end from the ****, the end going to the heater control valvle....then under the hood is the "other" end.
Basically when you have the **** to "max cool" you want to be sure the heater control valve is FULLY closed off. If it is a "tad" short of being fully closed off, you need to adjust the cables to get that "extra" length to fully close it off and be sure the blend door is fully closed.
Inside the car there are two. The other end from the ****, the end going to the heater control valvle....then under the hood is the "other" end.
Basically when you have the **** to "max cool" you want to be sure the heater control valve is FULLY closed off. If it is a "tad" short of being fully closed off, you need to adjust the cables to get that "extra" length to fully close it off and be sure the blend door is fully closed.
Last edited by poorman212; 03-31-2012 at 07:15 AM.
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