1. Yea. I have no idea why someone would remove the filter and replace it like they did.

2. Again the pcv sits into the tube - the other end of that tube goes to the oil pan. Nothing to worry with, again jut me but I've had issues with PCV not wanting to come out of the tube....and when it did it broke the tube, hence why I have a replacement just laying around for a car I don't even own anymore

3 If I'm following you correctly, that hose goes to the air filter base - left/drivers side of the air filter base.

4. looks like they had/have choke issues and have "rigged" it. I'd save that for another day. Depends on how cold it gets around there, might not be an issue worth getting into.

5. Can't place that pipe on the car by the pic? Is that from the pass side just in front of the rear tire going into the muffler? There are online diagrams of the exhaust system, you should be able to get a better idea.

6. If it is ok, good. Again just throwing out things I've ran into before.....didn't mean for it to turn into a big deal or what I would call a "common/known issue".

 

Engine pic showing hose from valve cover to air filter base

 

Hi again.

2) I really appreciate the offer. I will let you know the moment that I break it!

3) Yes, that is what I thought. There is currently nothing that is attached to the air filter housing. (where the top of the hose connects to in your pic) It would seem that everything points to the previous owner having issues with oil consumption / blowby (From what I have been reading elsewhere online). The hose from the top of the valve cover just vents to the atmosphere. I did not expect this from a Honda with 65k, but I guess if someone takes bad enough care of something this may happen. (let me know if I am jumping to conclusions, as I have not operated the car long enough to actually see how fast the oil is used, if at all) If I am correct, I have seem some discussion online about using a catch can and/or using oil additives to alleviate the issue. Have you ever had experience using either of these?

4) I live in new Jersey so it swings from hot to cold pretty good. I can leave it how it is now but I am definitely interested in getting to the root of the cause at some point. Perhaps I can make a new thread about this rig specifically?

5) The part seems to be the 'resonator pipe' according to your (better than I could find anywhere online) diagram. Do you think any from a junkyard would last, or should I buy a new pipe?

I will make it beautiful again for you guys!

Thanks as usual.

 

Hey guys, another update for you.

I finished all of the fluid and filter replacements today. Also replaced PCV valve. I took a heat shield from an old ford and bent it to fit around the exhaust pipe and tied it down with a bunch of hose clamps - now at least some of the exhaust goes to the muffler.

I finished both fuel filters and added the barryman B12 as suggested earlier. I put some steel wool in a catch can and put it inline with the valve cover -to- airbox hose and put that back in the airbox where it is supposed to be.

Finally got to start it up again after all that was done. Started up ok with no leaks. Sprayed some B12 carb cleaner down the carb while it was running. I managed to kill it a few times but hopefully it will help. I took it around the block a few times - no issues there. (I cant go far because still no plates yet)

Some more concerns for you:

-A small amount of smoke is coming out of the hose coming from the catch can (into the air cleaner box) Not sure if it will go away after a while? Looks the same color like when you drip any kind of fluid and the motor gets hot and burns it off.

-When starting the car there is seemingly no phase of fast idle. It starts off right at 1000rpm and after a while drops to 800rpm. Are there any adjustments I can try to fix this? It is pretty hot out today (90 degrees) but it still seems not normal for a cold engine.

-It will get cold here eventually so I would like to know where to look to fix or replace the automatic choke. How can I debug it - at what point should it be closed and opened and how can I test it?

-The screws holding the carb to the air cleaner seem to be missing, as shown in the picture below. Is there anywhere I can get this replacement part?

Thanks and enjoy the rest of the weekend!

 

The choke being "held" is why there is no real "fast idle" feeling.

If you are wanting to get into the choke, fist thing is to "un-tie" it and lets see what happens. Kindo of hard to figure it out when we don't even know what signs it gives.....stick closed, works fine most of the time, except when "x-factors" are present.

For the air cleaner to carb mounting, from the factory there is a round "mesh-dome" that sits on the top of the carb that also holds the air filter base. Two nuts hold the dome down.....I'll look to see if I have a pic of the set up.

 

Don't have an actual picture, this is from the factory service manual I have

 

Thanks poorman (is it ok to keep calling you that? ).

I tested out the choke today. Not much I can really explain.

I took off the airbox along with three hoses in order to view the action as the engine ran. All three of the hoses connected to the air cleaner case, so I did not originally think that there connection was needed to let the carb work properly, but seemingly I was wrong. I first took off the hack and let it run as seen in the video. I pressed in the gas to close the choke plate, started the car, and immediately ran around and started the video recording. Idle stayed at 3k the whole time and the choke did not seem to move besides opening about halfway. (How long should it take? waited just a few minutes but the day is hot) After this I put the hack back on (held open choke) and stated the car again - still stayed at 3k rpm. Finally I left on the hack and put all of the airbox assembly back - now it started at the usual 800rpm-1k range. Seemingly those three hoses are important to get the right idle, even though they only seem to go to the atmosphere?

One of the two hoses going to the automatic choke piece (the one with the orange band on it) had a small crack in the end right where it fit on the automatic choke. Possibly I could replace this - any specific type of hose I should use?

Finally, it seems like the choke does not open all the way even if I manually pull the lever going to the automatic choke thingy. I took a few pictures of the way the pieces link together, possibly this was modified in some way by the previous owner to make the hack, so it is not supposed to look like this?

Thanks.

http://vid174.photobucket.com/albums...psx0o2e0v2.mp4

 

Call me whatever you want

You should get a copy of the factory service manual for the car and do a little reading on this. It can get a bit complicated to follow so don't let it scare you at first...trust me 20 years ago when I first read it I was like "oh, hell no".

I have one where the whole manual is in one file, there are some on the internet where they come in sections but I found that they are missing pieces/pages.

The hoses to the air filter base are actually to "air bleed" valves and do play a part in this. Not sure which hose has a split in it but you should replace any that are broken/split.