'09 EXL Sedan
43k
4 cyl

 

Here are some problems that some 8th generation Accords had:

• Steering column pop sound or clicking (doesn't sound like your problem). -- Affected a small bunch of Accords.

http://mordor.rutgers.edu/accord/tsb...p%2009-078.pdf

• Wheel bearing problem (Some of the symptoms are: will make a roaring type noise every now and then, sometimes at low speed or higher speed; eventually will have some vibration) - - while it didn't afflict most Accords, many people already had a wheel bearing problem. May not be your problem.
• Axles (vibration, noise, etc.) -- not common occurrence; but, a few had this problem.
• Original rear brake pads wear fast. Honda revised rear brake pad material, added V-springs, and instructions that came with pads to check upper and lower caliper slider pin and reverse if necessary. (I suspect the car already had the rear pads replaced. However, if the original part number pads were used as the replacement, they may be due for replacement again.) Worn rear pads won't cause a judder in your steering wheel, the rotors may cause a little; but, not like the front rotors. --Still, check rear pad for wear; generally, it's the inner pad that wears faster (they do have wear indicators though), so looking from the outside of the wheel will not really tell.
• While the original front pads last a long time (usually 2 - 4 times longer than the rear pads), some Accords had problems with juddering. Possibly may be somewhat related to your problem. It's is the thumping you hear that makes me a little wary as being the true problem though.

http://mordor.rutgers.edu/accord/tsb...e%2009-096.pdf


Some other little things, not as common; but, does occur:

• Caliper pin was not properly lubed with silicone grease out of the factory. Will cause some sticking and noises
• After a car is washed the previous night and not really driven afterward. The next morning, brakes will makes a little unusual noise and some uneven braking for a short while until heat dries up the moisture.

 

Redbull,
That was a really informative post. Thank you.

I took my car to the dealer again tonight to start Round 2. Let's see what they can figure out. The sound is getting worse...not better, and I notice it's worse when it's hot outside.

I can also make the noise with the brake depressed, and applying a little gas at the same time. The engine kinda revs slightly and I hear the 'clunk.'

More to come. I just want it fixed!

 

Dealer couldn't replicate the problem so I went down there and took the tech for a spin myself. He finally heard the thumping.

He spent some time troubleshooting and I got a call back saying they found the upper control arm was loose so they tightened it and drove it again. No noise.

I sure hope they've fixed it. I pick up the car tomorrow.

 

If it was the upper control arm, that could make the thumping/clunking you may have heard. If the tightening didn't fix it, they may have to replace it.

I have not really heard of the upper control arm giving problems on the 8th gen Accord. If that was your case, then it is an anomaly this early in the life of the car.

Good luck that the tightening did the trick for the long term.

 

Thank you so much for your posted comments which are really helpful. I hope that the dealer caught the correct one - the upper control caused that annoying noise. I am here in winter and that noise does not come up anymore. I suggest it only happen in hot days. I think that is may because the sticking callipers because I have test the car in summer.

I checked the temperature of the rotor when first start (no ugly noise) then when the noise comes up after running for the first mile. The difference is about 40C degree, 20 vs 60. I have a sedan toyota which doesn't have that noise. The rotor temperature is around 27C degree when running and braking the whole day (weather temperature is around 25 on that day).

I think the sticking calliper pistons force the pads to the rotor at low speed. At higher speed, the fast rotation win the piston force so we don't have that noise.
Secondly, this happen to me after I have my car washed. I believe that when I used high pressure water that may washed away the piston lubricant.

We have that noise on hot days because: 1. Hot days causes the rotor get hot easily. 2. The unbalance in term of expanding and shrinking of the steel which affected by temperature causes the piston stuck in the calliper.

The above is just my thought and I may be wrong. Hope to hear from you soon.
Luke

 

Interesting.

Wish I had the answer. I am on to the next chapter.

After the dealer said that they found a loose upper control arm, I was very hopeful. However, on the way home, after driving 15 minutes, the car heated up and the noise reappeared. Disappointed.

It was Saturday, and they were closing, so I talked with them and am dropping the car off again. The frustration is that it only appears after the car's very hot (driven at least 15 - 20 minutes). It's really noticable later in the day after I've driven it a few times. First drive when it's cold-no noise, or it's very subtle.

Anyway, I am at a loss. I notice the clunk/creek/pop gets louder as the car gets hotter. I hear it in stop and go traffic, going less than 20 miles per hour. I actually feel it as I step on the gas, too.

Redbull said I might have to replace tne upper control arm. I have no clue what would cause it to go bad--the dealer said either it was loose from the factory, or someone did work on it. I suspect the former.

Anyway, I am not sure just what the source of this aggrevation is, but I'm trying again. I want to tell these guys to hold onto the car until the fix it for good.

Thanks for all the good information!

Lansing

 

This is based on incorrect assumptions of the mechanics and operation of the brake caliper (e.g., pistons, etc.). So, the conclusion would not be correct.

 

They would have to check first to see if it needed replacement, it may not. There is also the ball joint to check on the suspension.

Your problem could be something unrelated.

 

Car's back from the dealer. They tested it, 'adjusted the axle and nut' and retested--no sound.

I tested, and yes, it seems better (50-75%), but it hasn't been that hot. Still some popping/thumping, but less of the creeking while going slow. So whatever they did seems to have worked. Not sure what can be done with the axle...and nut. Is that how you get to the bearings?

Anyway, not sure if I leave well enough alone and settle for a partial fix, or go back (again). They still have some work left (e.g., replacing driver's side seat rail)...so maybe I have them try again in a week or so.