timing advanced, but not. 92
#11
Yes, it damaged the distributor internal frame and required repair but worked afterwards. If you installed backwards, the distributor will be slightly cocked where it meets the head.
If distributor installed correctly confirm mechanical timing; rotor pointed at #1 w/ crankshaft aligned to 15 BTDC. If this is correct, then ECM may be faulty.
good luck
If distributor installed correctly confirm mechanical timing; rotor pointed at #1 w/ crankshaft aligned to 15 BTDC. If this is correct, then ECM may be faulty.
good luck
#12
alright, so i finally got some time to mess with this again.
i rotated engine till i hit 15 degrees after tdc, (red timing line), and at that spot, the distributor rotor is dead center of #1 wire.
so what else can i check before i have to go to ecm? dont have the funds for that atm. (baby coming next month)
i rotated engine till i hit 15 degrees after tdc, (red timing line), and at that spot, the distributor rotor is dead center of #1 wire.
so what else can i check before i have to go to ecm? dont have the funds for that atm. (baby coming next month)
#13
Do you have a Check Engine Light on? A bad timing signal might cause this problem instead of ECM. Not sure of any way to check except substitute a known good distributor.
Distributor will actually cost more than a used ECM. I found several used ECM's for < $50 w/ free shipping. Distributor will run $75-$100.
good luck
Distributor will actually cost more than a used ECM. I found several used ECM's for < $50 w/ free shipping. Distributor will run $75-$100.
good luck
#14
well, the distributor is advanced all the way. does that change anything? like, could it be timing marks that are not correct?
i did replace distributor last summer.
i get code 1 and 43 a lot. ive replaced o2 sensor a few times. twice with bosch, once with denso one, bosch was from pick n pull, looked good. same with denso. sence its the ex with the o2 sensor underneath, i had some oil leak from oil cooler probly into o2 connector, fixed leak, i would clean out the connector coming from the loom with electric parts cleaner and it will work for a bit. then give me the codes again. now im getting code 41. never got that before. it runs nice when clean, when throwing codes, its dangerously giving out and starting again. I have had that problem for a long time.
i did replace distributor last summer.
i get code 1 and 43 a lot. ive replaced o2 sensor a few times. twice with bosch, once with denso one, bosch was from pick n pull, looked good. same with denso. sence its the ex with the o2 sensor underneath, i had some oil leak from oil cooler probly into o2 connector, fixed leak, i would clean out the connector coming from the loom with electric parts cleaner and it will work for a bit. then give me the codes again. now im getting code 41. never got that before. it runs nice when clean, when throwing codes, its dangerously giving out and starting again. I have had that problem for a long time.
Last edited by BlindGungfu; 05-05-2013 at 11:05 PM.
#15
What is the idle at when you are testing?
You may want to test your timing light on a car that is running well, just to rule out the timing light.
Just try checking the timing with the ECU connector not jumpered.
The white mark is TDC, and the red mark is 15 degrees before TDC. When you manually set the light to 15, should you line up on the white or red mark? I always forget.
You may want to test your timing light on a car that is running well, just to rule out the timing light.
Just try checking the timing with the ECU connector not jumpered.
The white mark is TDC, and the red mark is 15 degrees before TDC. When you manually set the light to 15, should you line up on the white or red mark? I always forget.
#16
One possibility I had not considered is slippage of the crankshaft pulley outer rim. This happened to me on a 97 Acura 2.5TL and caused other problems (timing not adjustable), but on Accord it would make impossible to reset timing correctly.
My procedure to check was to make a radial mark across the pulley, bushing, and inner drive. The outer rim mark will slip circumferentially and show slipping. If car isn't running this may not work.
You might remove drive belt and see if you can manually rotate outer pulley rim.
good luck
My procedure to check was to make a radial mark across the pulley, bushing, and inner drive. The outer rim mark will slip circumferentially and show slipping. If car isn't running this may not work.
You might remove drive belt and see if you can manually rotate outer pulley rim.
good luck
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