I saw several at Rockauto.com for <$10. They are really good online vendor, fast shipping and reasonable.

good luck

 

This is REAL relief for me. I recently purchased a 95LX and I (now) know the previous owner did not do a 'perfect' maintenance on this. More likely his oil changes were infrequent. I can see gunk, and the guy who replaced the timing belt said I need to do frequent oil changes to clean up the gunk.

Is there an easy way to know if the oil passages are blocked? How easily do they get clogged? 'Hondafix's' case is the first I am reading about blocked passages...

 

no real way to know if they are blocked without pulling the valve cover etc.... Run some seafoam through the oil, fuel and engine to clean up a lot of that gunk (write-up in DIY section on sea foam)

 

Yes, I've planned that when I get close to my next oil change in about a month's time. I also have my old spark-plugs ready. I'll be doing the Throttle body and IACV too.

BTW, to keep the engine revs high (after adding Seafoam) does it help to drive on D3 or lower gear instead of D4 for a short while? Perhaps yes?

 

Yes I have ordered from Rockauto.com before also and I agree they are very good.
However if the dealer has it for $15 like mention by PAhonda I guess that's my best bet.

I just turned on car again, I just let it idle and it took about 10 minutes before oil lamp
to turn on and off. I also noticed that radiator fan did not kick on. It did only with A/C
on, as you told me earlier.

Also the lower hose, was still kind of cool to the touch. Can that be a bad thermostat?

Thanks!

 

If temperature did not approach "normal", just below 1/2 position, a new thermostat is needed. Low engine tempscan enhance sludge formation.

good luck

 

there isn't really a test for the oil pressure switch - it's mostly just remove the connector and boot and check for any oil leaks from it.

 

In the time of my youth, kerosene was oftenused to give an engine a really good cleaning. Here's a pretty good modern-day version of ityou can tryas a last-ditch effort to improve oil flow(ofcourse, this is after you've removed the "big stuff" with a diamond-tipped chisel):
http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/s...d.php?t=281167
...............................
"Cleaning/flushing an old engine may lead to other disaster. If you still insist, here is my "pro" guide for you:

Using kerosene engine flush

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (Starting with a NEW oil filter is recommended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. Let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents, during or just after you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine until it comes out clear...
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. Again if you think it requires, you can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out until it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favourite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until it’s at operating temperature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

Dont try on high mileage cars, in an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thi"

Adding the kerosene to oil, or vice versa, will raise the tmperature of theflash point ofkerosene to well above 100F, and the autoignition temperature to well above 410F. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_fuel

Safety procedures should mimic those that are used when employing any fammable liquid. Obvisously, don't have any spark or open flame near the wastekerosene/oil as you drain it from the engine. To increase the safety factor, you can thoroughly mix the oil and kerosene beforeputting it into the engine.

 

Knowing what you know about sludge in the valve cover, I wouldn't waste my time with checking the oil pressure switch. Every time youstart the engine you're asking for more damage.

I wouldn't even do the kerosene/flush trick right away. I'd take off the oil pan & clean it up as best you can down there. You don't want the oilpump to pick up that crud & put it into the bearings.

THEN try the kerosene trick. Or use some of the better flush stuff, like Auto-RX or BG44K.

Put a bottle of stuff into the oil, run the engine for 20 minutes or whatever it says, & change the oil. Do this a few times to remove more of the gunk.

 

Okay so I've noticed that everyone has stated that at least the oil pan should be dropped
and cleaned, and I agree. However is there anyway that pan will come off without removing exhaust pipe?

I read the thread MikeT posted, what tools are needed to remove exhaust pipe. Do bolts need a torch applied. Also what is the
likelyhood of bolts breaking?

I also inspected engine hoses for blockages or damage, and found the following.

Valve Cover Breather Hose - almost completely clogged -so I unclogged it
Intake air duct - had oil inside duct entered through path coming from Breather Hose - so I cleaned oil
Throttle Body - were it connects to Intake air duct had oil also - so I cleaned oil
Fast Idle Thermo Valve - is covered with what looks like oil I'm guessin it came from above throttle hose?? (have not yet removed to inspect)

After doing all the above I ran engine for 45 minutes and oil lamp did not turn on, does any of the above
affect oil pressure? Like the clogged breather hose?

What can cause oil to be drawn to air duct, is this normal.

Also how can I adjust the idle the car seems to idle a little rough.

Thanks again!