Timing Belt Question
#11
08-02-2019, 01:42 PM
Thats another good video. I knew to check to see if that plastic part inside was tight. But I didn’t realize I could check out while the car is warm, and see if it was sucking vacuum. I didn’t know that’s how it worked. My idol seems fine, just seems like the car is shaking slightly, and when I put it in gear seems like it’s a tad worse. Not enough to worry me. But I want to make it right. My idle seems a little high, I think it’s around 900 rpm in gear.
Today’s the day!! All of my parts will be here! Yikes!!
I even bought transmission fluid I want to do at least one drain and fill, then I’ll do another one in about a week. I’m also going to change them rocker arms seals for the spark plugs, and adjust the valves. That may even help my idle a little bit with the valves not sure.
I was watching something on YouTube and I cannot remember where it’s at now. But a guy was saying that 98 and up had a lot of transmission problems. He was talking about the 90–93 being very durable. I hope my transmission last a lot longer, but of course I guess we all wish that LOL Mine shifts firm, so I guess that’s good.
I usually run conventional oil. I’m just afraid to switch it back after synthetic blend being in there. Not sure it that is bad to do.
Today’s the day!! All of my parts will be here! Yikes!!
I even bought transmission fluid I want to do at least one drain and fill, then I’ll do another one in about a week. I’m also going to change them rocker arms seals for the spark plugs, and adjust the valves. That may even help my idle a little bit with the valves not sure.
I was watching something on YouTube and I cannot remember where it’s at now. But a guy was saying that 98 and up had a lot of transmission problems. He was talking about the 90–93 being very durable. I hope my transmission last a lot longer, but of course I guess we all wish that LOL Mine shifts firm, so I guess that’s good.
I usually run conventional oil. I’m just afraid to switch it back after synthetic blend being in there. Not sure it that is bad to do.
On this site, everyone in the "Off Topic" section says that up thru 97 AT's are good, but 5 spd MT's are best. I did some searching, and visited other Honda forums, as my wife's Accord is a "dreaded" 98-02 model (00), and is known to go bad. I was mainly looking for when on average they go bad. But most of them that died were all V6 cars. Also another cause is in my signature. Two things I've found to improve AT life were to add an aux oil cooler, and a screw on oil filter. The idea behind the cooler is to take heat out of the fluid. And the idea behind the filter is to have clean fluid (what regular fluid changes do). But like I said, I was wanting to get an idea of when I should be looking for a failure in my wife's car. I know the 4L60E trans that GM uses go bad at around 140K miles. BTDT, seen many go there too. The one in my S-10 went at 141K, so I know it's true.
If you're used to conventional oil, run it instead. Brand doesn't seem to matter either, as everybody is different. Just look at the shelves in Autozone, there's all sorts of different brands.
#12
08-02-2019, 02:32 PM
Since you have an early car, I'd probably go with Valvoline brand Dexron. I'd rather pay a little more for a better product.
On this site, everyone in the "Off Topic" section says that up thru 97 AT's are good, but 5 spd MT's are best. I did some searching, and visited other Honda forums, as my wife's Accord is a "dreaded" 98-02 model (00), and is known to go bad. I was mainly looking for when on average they go bad. But most of them that died were all V6 cars. Also another cause is in my signature. Two things I've found to improve AT life were to add an aux oil cooler, and a screw on oil filter. The idea behind the cooler is to take heat out of the fluid. And the idea behind the filter is to have clean fluid (what regular fluid changes do). But like I said, I was wanting to get an idea of when I should be looking for a failure in my wife's car. I know the 4L60E trans that GM uses go bad at around 140K miles. BTDT, seen many go there too. The one in my S-10 went at 141K, so I know it's true.
If you're used to conventional oil, run it instead. Brand doesn't seem to matter either, as everybody is different. Just look at the shelves in Autozone, there's all sorts of different brands.
On this site, everyone in the "Off Topic" section says that up thru 97 AT's are good, but 5 spd MT's are best. I did some searching, and visited other Honda forums, as my wife's Accord is a "dreaded" 98-02 model (00), and is known to go bad. I was mainly looking for when on average they go bad. But most of them that died were all V6 cars. Also another cause is in my signature. Two things I've found to improve AT life were to add an aux oil cooler, and a screw on oil filter. The idea behind the cooler is to take heat out of the fluid. And the idea behind the filter is to have clean fluid (what regular fluid changes do). But like I said, I was wanting to get an idea of when I should be looking for a failure in my wife's car. I know the 4L60E trans that GM uses go bad at around 140K miles. BTDT, seen many go there too. The one in my S-10 went at 141K, so I know it's true.
If you're used to conventional oil, run it instead. Brand doesn't seem to matter either, as everybody is different. Just look at the shelves in Autozone, there's all sorts of different brands.
Last edited by plenum; 08-02-2019 at 07:04 PM.
#13
08-02-2019, 05:56 PM
About your 1-quart at a time method... Keep in mind the transmission and torque converter hold about 7 quarts. So when you drain/fill, your 3 quarts of fresh ATF is already less than half of the total.
#14
08-02-2019, 06:36 PM
Also there is one more thing, you can clean the Throttle body with brake cleaner. Then there is something else you should clean. It's the idle air control valve. It's kind of easy to get off (you maybe be able to clean it inside of the car if you can get one clamp off. And take the bolts off.
Also having the car idle and just feel the hoses with your hands so you can find leaky or bad air hoses as well.
Google "1990 Honda Accord IACV (idle air control valve)" And you will find the video.
I also did some research about our transmissions.. I heard they last a lot longer in the winter. Because they don't get as hot.
I also have the Genuine Honda Transmission Fluid. My operation is going to be get the old stuff out in a clean oil pan (which I bought from a dollar store). Then I have a clean container that I rinsed out with water. Then I bought a new funnel long ones (2 of them $1 at dollar store). I'm going to put 1 quart in of the new stuff. And keep 1.5 quarts of the old stuff (unless it looks too terrible). We don't know if it's synthetic or not. It doesn't say synthetic on the bottle. I also wont be doing the flush method of 3 times every 50 miles. It will probably be every 10,000 miles. And I also researched something else, which I don't know is true or not but this but someone said this:
So I'm debating it. And I don't think I should really put the Honda Genuine Transmission fluid in. Unless someone wants to contact Honda and ask them. In fact, I might drive to the dealership right now and get a refund. There was another member here not to long ago. He said you couldn't pay me to put that in. I might try an Oreilly Conventional Dex brand. Somebody said that worked good for them. But I also heard not to use the new DEXRON versions. Because even if you did keep update with your transmission fluid changes. The cleaning properties in the new one could cause more problems with the filter that honda never wants you to change.
Check this out here: It kind of sucks we got nothing to go on, on what we could use. And there is no clear answer. And there is a lot of doubts on what to use. Then people say, oh don't use cheap universal brands either. It's very frustrating.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-66848/page3/
Also about the motor oil to use. I would use conventional. Even if you have to do more oil changes every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Oil is cheap. Someone has explained that on older vehicles if there were leaks to begin with and conventional was used. And now you use synthetic, it might make the leaks worse. But since you got that kit. You are going to change some seals anyways. Camshaft seal and crankshaft seals, even then I still recommend the conventional oil anyways. It's not going to hurt anything to switch it to conventional oil.
Also one more thing if your engine shakes at idle, it could be the motor mounts. Check those out as well.
Also having the car idle and just feel the hoses with your hands so you can find leaky or bad air hoses as well.
Google "1990 Honda Accord IACV (idle air control valve)" And you will find the video.
I also did some research about our transmissions.. I heard they last a lot longer in the winter. Because they don't get as hot.
I also have the Genuine Honda Transmission Fluid. My operation is going to be get the old stuff out in a clean oil pan (which I bought from a dollar store). Then I have a clean container that I rinsed out with water. Then I bought a new funnel long ones (2 of them $1 at dollar store). I'm going to put 1 quart in of the new stuff. And keep 1.5 quarts of the old stuff (unless it looks too terrible). We don't know if it's synthetic or not. It doesn't say synthetic on the bottle. I also wont be doing the flush method of 3 times every 50 miles. It will probably be every 10,000 miles. And I also researched something else, which I don't know is true or not but this but someone said this:
So I'm debating it. And I don't think I should really put the Honda Genuine Transmission fluid in. Unless someone wants to contact Honda and ask them. In fact, I might drive to the dealership right now and get a refund. There was another member here not to long ago. He said you couldn't pay me to put that in. I might try an Oreilly Conventional Dex brand. Somebody said that worked good for them. But I also heard not to use the new DEXRON versions. Because even if you did keep update with your transmission fluid changes. The cleaning properties in the new one could cause more problems with the filter that honda never wants you to change.
Check this out here: It kind of sucks we got nothing to go on, on what we could use. And there is no clear answer. And there is a lot of doubts on what to use. Then people say, oh don't use cheap universal brands either. It's very frustrating.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-66848/page3/
Also about the motor oil to use. I would use conventional. Even if you have to do more oil changes every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Oil is cheap. Someone has explained that on older vehicles if there were leaks to begin with and conventional was used. And now you use synthetic, it might make the leaks worse. But since you got that kit. You are going to change some seals anyways. Camshaft seal and crankshaft seals, even then I still recommend the conventional oil anyways. It's not going to hurt anything to switch it to conventional oil.
Also one more thing if your engine shakes at idle, it could be the motor mounts. Check those out as well.
Thank you for all the advice I truly appreciate it. I will be checking everything out. I just bought 4 quarts of that Honda transmission fluid DW off of Amazon. Now I don’t know what to do, I don’t want to ruin my transmission. I will definitely check my motor mounts also, that is a very good idea.
My friend gave me a half a quart of transmission fluid that he was using to top it off once in a while and it is Castrol that says like Honda and Toyota and stuff on the front for imports.
Last edited by Slade; 08-02-2019 at 06:42 PM.
#15
08-02-2019, 06:38 PM
Since you have an early car, I'd probably go with Valvoline brand Dexron. I'd rather pay a little more for a better product.
On this site, everyone in the "Off Topic" section says that up thru 97 AT's are good, but 5 spd MT's are best. I did some searching, and visited other Honda forums, as my wife's Accord is a "dreaded" 98-02 model (00), and is known to go bad. I was mainly looking for when on average they go bad. But most of them that died were all V6 cars. Also another cause is in my signature. Two things I've found to improve AT life were to add an aux oil cooler, and a screw on oil filter. The idea behind the cooler is to take heat out of the fluid. And the idea behind the filter is to have clean fluid (what regular fluid changes do). But like I said, I was wanting to get an idea of when I should be looking for a failure in my wife's car. I know the 4L60E trans that GM uses go bad at around 140K miles. BTDT, seen many go there too. The one in my S-10 went at 141K, so I know it's true.
If you're used to conventional oil, run it instead. Brand doesn't seem to matter either, as everybody is different. Just look at the shelves in Autozone, there's all sorts of different brands.
On this site, everyone in the "Off Topic" section says that up thru 97 AT's are good, but 5 spd MT's are best. I did some searching, and visited other Honda forums, as my wife's Accord is a "dreaded" 98-02 model (00), and is known to go bad. I was mainly looking for when on average they go bad. But most of them that died were all V6 cars. Also another cause is in my signature. Two things I've found to improve AT life were to add an aux oil cooler, and a screw on oil filter. The idea behind the cooler is to take heat out of the fluid. And the idea behind the filter is to have clean fluid (what regular fluid changes do). But like I said, I was wanting to get an idea of when I should be looking for a failure in my wife's car. I know the 4L60E trans that GM uses go bad at around 140K miles. BTDT, seen many go there too. The one in my S-10 went at 141K, so I know it's true.
If you're used to conventional oil, run it instead. Brand doesn't seem to matter either, as everybody is different. Just look at the shelves in Autozone, there's all sorts of different brands.
Last edited by Slade; 08-02-2019 at 07:03 PM.
#16
08-02-2019, 07:47 PM
The only reason I bought the Honda DW automatic transmission fluid is from watching Eric the car guy, I imagine I can return it to Amazon, I bought 4 quarts for $37.00. He made me very nervous about using anything else. Valvoline has so many out, I’m not sure exactly what it looks like that is Valvoline brand Dexron?
I still don't think even "Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Transmission Fluid Multi Vehicle ATF" is the best one. I heard it was the Z-1 ATF equivalent.
"Castrol 06814 Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart "
This might even be more of a ATF Z-1 equivalent! It makes no mention if it's a synthetic. Some questions answered on the amazon product page of this:
"ATF-Z1 is Dex3 with a friction modifier. This will cover that spec. As the trans ages & wears you may be better served by using a higher viscosity fluid such as AMSOIL ATF. If you are doing a drain & refill, the ffirst one is about 44% new fluid replacement. The 3rd. one will take you to 85%. Think diloution rate vs. volume.
By KW on July 19, 2016
According to Castrol Product Information sheet, there is no mention this is synthetic or a synthetic blend. Therefore, it is natural petroleum mineral oil based ATF"
I still need to research if lower viscosity fluids are a big deal with Honda 1990 - 1993 accords transmissions. Because I have seen people say it's better. The question is does it last longer? I do think your friend has the correct stuff. I don't like the label full synthetic. For that other stuff. It's very smart putting in a little at a time to introduce new fluids you plan to use with it. I still think the best stuff is a universal multi car brand that is designed to work with our cars. That is Honda Z-1 ATF equivalent. And that is not insanely synthetic to the point it cleans the transmission like crazy. Reliability is better than performance in my opinion. Just because it shifts smoother doesn't mean it's reliable (means it would last a long time). I heard our cars are suppose to shift harder. Smooth shifting means it could wear out quickly. Hence my theory on why I don't buy performance exhaust pipes. Always keep the iron cast exhaust header in!
"I'd use Castrol Import Multi Vehicle over Maxlife for Z1, it is thicker and closer to the Z1 viscosity. I'm using it right now in my Integra and it is fine." Which I think is better than Valvoline MaxLife Multi Vehicle ATF
" think that both fluids are wrong for the two 2002 transmissions, designed for the Z1 fluid (higher viscosity). Low Viscosity fluid is designed for newer transmissions. It might be back-specced to satisfy corporate fuel economy, but there is no guarantee for the transmission life (at that point in age/mileage).
Personally I prefer Castrol Import Multi-vehicle, enhanced with a bottle of Lubegard Red."
Personally I prefer Castrol Import Multi-vehicle, enhanced with a bottle of Lubegard Red."
I've used both the Castrol High Mileage and the Valvoline Maxlife in my CR-V. No problems that I'm aware of. Can't say I could tell a difference either way.
Originally Posted by slade
Thank you for all the advice I truly appreciate it.
Last edited by plenum; 08-03-2019 at 05:00 PM.
#17
08-02-2019, 09:10 PM
Yeah, I read the same thing. Amazon has a great return policy. And I think if you change your mind you can buy it at the dealership. The thing about Eric the car guy, when he made that video about transmission fluid. He was talking about the Z-1, and he never did a follow up to my knowledge if people still should use the DW-1 brand for the older hondas. Eric the car guy was smart about the motor oil thing, I'll grant him that, he did a follow video on that. Transmission fluid not so much. I trust eric the car guy as far as I can throw him about transmission fluid.
I still don't think even "Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Transmission Fluid Multi Vehicle ATF" is the best one. I heard it was the Z-1 ATF equivalent.
I want to check that out. I know what to stay away from, stay away from "Valvoline DEXRON VI Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid" I heard someone mention Castrol on another threads. And I found it on amazon. And it doesn't say synthetic on the box! I'm afraid of Full synthetic,
"Castrol 06814 Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart "
This might even be more of a ATF Z-1 equivalent! It makes no mention if it's a synthetic. Some questions answered on the amazon product page of this:
"ATF-Z1 is Dex3 with a friction modifier. This will cover that spec. As the trans ages & wears you may be better served by using a higher viscosity fluid such as AMSOIL ATF. If you are doing a drain & refill, the ffirst one is about 44% new fluid replacement. The 3rd. one will take you to 85%. Think diloution rate vs. volume.
By KW on July 19, 2016
According to Castrol Product Information sheet, there is no mention this is synthetic or a synthetic blend. Therefore, it is natural petroleum mineral oil based ATF"
I still need to research if lower viscosity fluids are a big deal with Honda 1990 - 1993 accords transmissions. Because I have seen people say it's better. The question is does it last longer? I do think your friend has the correct stuff. I don't like the label full synthetic. For that other stuff. It's very smart putting in a little at a time to introduce new fluids you plan to use with it. I still think the best stuff is a universal multi car brand that is designed to work with our cars. That is Honda Z-1 ATF equivalent. And that is not insanely synthetic to the point it cleans the transmission like crazy. Reliability is better than performance in my opinion. Just because it shifts smoother doesn't mean it's reliable (means it would last a long time). I heard our cars are suppose to shift harder. Smooth shifting means it could wear out quickly. Hence my theory on why I don't buy performance exhaust pipes. Always keep the iron cast exhaust header in!
Thanks for the heads up. I'm just afraid to use something that is labeled full synthetic and have it 40% diluted with stuff that cleans the transmission like crazy. I do like Slades mention of "Castrol 06814 Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid " Which is not labeled as synthetic. And that might mean it is conventional. And it might mean it's a good named brand.
Don't worry about it man, you are helping me, as much as your helping out yourself. Doing the timing belt is an incredibly hard task. We both have the same model cars. In our generation. We our helping our cars. Don't forget to thank everyone here as well. Take your time with your car. Do things right. I have made DIY mistakes. It's not easy, and mechanics have a tough job. I want the best for our cars!
I still don't think even "Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Transmission Fluid Multi Vehicle ATF" is the best one. I heard it was the Z-1 ATF equivalent.
I want to check that out. I know what to stay away from, stay away from "Valvoline DEXRON VI Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid" I heard someone mention Castrol on another threads. And I found it on amazon. And it doesn't say synthetic on the box! I'm afraid of Full synthetic,
"Castrol 06814 Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart "
This might even be more of a ATF Z-1 equivalent! It makes no mention if it's a synthetic. Some questions answered on the amazon product page of this:
"ATF-Z1 is Dex3 with a friction modifier. This will cover that spec. As the trans ages & wears you may be better served by using a higher viscosity fluid such as AMSOIL ATF. If you are doing a drain & refill, the ffirst one is about 44% new fluid replacement. The 3rd. one will take you to 85%. Think diloution rate vs. volume.
By KW on July 19, 2016
According to Castrol Product Information sheet, there is no mention this is synthetic or a synthetic blend. Therefore, it is natural petroleum mineral oil based ATF"
I still need to research if lower viscosity fluids are a big deal with Honda 1990 - 1993 accords transmissions. Because I have seen people say it's better. The question is does it last longer? I do think your friend has the correct stuff. I don't like the label full synthetic. For that other stuff. It's very smart putting in a little at a time to introduce new fluids you plan to use with it. I still think the best stuff is a universal multi car brand that is designed to work with our cars. That is Honda Z-1 ATF equivalent. And that is not insanely synthetic to the point it cleans the transmission like crazy. Reliability is better than performance in my opinion. Just because it shifts smoother doesn't mean it's reliable (means it would last a long time). I heard our cars are suppose to shift harder. Smooth shifting means it could wear out quickly. Hence my theory on why I don't buy performance exhaust pipes. Always keep the iron cast exhaust header in!
Thanks for the heads up. I'm just afraid to use something that is labeled full synthetic and have it 40% diluted with stuff that cleans the transmission like crazy. I do like Slades mention of "Castrol 06814 Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid " Which is not labeled as synthetic. And that might mean it is conventional. And it might mean it's a good named brand.
Don't worry about it man, you are helping me, as much as your helping out yourself. Doing the timing belt is an incredibly hard task. We both have the same model cars. In our generation. We our helping our cars. Don't forget to thank everyone here as well. Take your time with your car. Do things right. I have made DIY mistakes. It's not easy, and mechanics have a tough job. I want the best for our cars!
I am going to send back the DW Honda. That concerns me now. The Castrol Multi Import Just doesn’t sit with me very well.
Mine shifts firm and That’s a great thing!!! But I truly want to change the fluid badly. At least a few quarts at a time. I’m just so confused.
I truly appreciate everyones help on the his forum. I will be on it tomorrow and take my time over the weekend and get everything done. Well for except the transmission fluid until we figure this out.
#18
08-02-2019, 09:22 PM
I am afraid of going full synthetic in my transmission also. I switched to Valvoline Maxlife when my wife had her 2013 Malibu. I didn’t like how it acted! This transmission fluid thing is crazy! When I was young, we only had a few to choose from lol
I am going to send back the DW Honda. That concerns me now. The Castrol Multi Import Just doesn’t sit with me very well.
Mine shifts firm and That’s a great thing!!! But I truly want to change the fluid badly. At least a few quarts at a time. I’m just so confused.
I truly appreciate everyones help on the his forum. I will be on it tomorrow and take my time over the weekend and get everything done. Well for except the transmission fluid until we figure this out.
I am going to send back the DW Honda. That concerns me now. The Castrol Multi Import Just doesn’t sit with me very well.
Mine shifts firm and That’s a great thing!!! But I truly want to change the fluid badly. At least a few quarts at a time. I’m just so confused.
I truly appreciate everyones help on the his forum. I will be on it tomorrow and take my time over the weekend and get everything done. Well for except the transmission fluid until we figure this out.
Last edited by plenum; 07-09-2023 at 12:05 AM.
#19
08-02-2019, 10:14 PM
I’m not sure why I don’t trust it, probably just me being paranoid. Here’s what I found on the Castrol Import. Not sure if it’s synthetic or not.
Recommended for use in vehicles as indicated: Acura— ATF-Z1 (except in CVTs), Chrysler— ATF+3, ATF+2, ATF+, Ford— MERCON V, MERCON, XT-9QMM5, General Motors— DEXRON-III H, II-D, II, DEXRON; 9986195; Type A, Suffix A (TASA), Honda— ATF-Z1, ATF DW-1, (except in CVTs), Hyundai— SP-II, SP-III, Idemitsu— K17, Infiniti— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Isuzu— Genuine, Kia— All specifications, Lexus— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Mazda— ATF M-V, Mitsubishi—Diamond SP-II, SP-III, Nissan— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Saab— Transmax J, Subaru— All specifications, Toyota— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Volvo— All specifications, Various (Aisin-Warner transmissions)— JWS-3309, Various European Vehicles where DEXRON-IIIH, MERCON DEXRON-IIIH or MERCON
Recommended for use in vehicles as indicated: Acura— ATF-Z1 (except in CVTs), Chrysler— ATF+3, ATF+2, ATF+, Ford— MERCON V, MERCON, XT-9QMM5, General Motors— DEXRON-III H, II-D, II, DEXRON; 9986195; Type A, Suffix A (TASA), Honda— ATF-Z1, ATF DW-1, (except in CVTs), Hyundai— SP-II, SP-III, Idemitsu— K17, Infiniti— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Isuzu— Genuine, Kia— All specifications, Lexus— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Mazda— ATF M-V, Mitsubishi—Diamond SP-II, SP-III, Nissan— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Saab— Transmax J, Subaru— All specifications, Toyota— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Volvo— All specifications, Various (Aisin-Warner transmissions)— JWS-3309, Various European Vehicles where DEXRON-IIIH, MERCON DEXRON-IIIH or MERCON
#20
08-03-2019, 04:33 AM
I’m not sure why I don’t trust it, probably just me being paranoid. Here’s what I found on the Castrol Import. Not sure if it’s synthetic or not.
Recommended for use in vehicles as indicated: Acura— ATF-Z1 (except in CVTs), Chrysler— ATF+3, ATF+2, ATF+, Ford— MERCON V, MERCON, XT-9QMM5, General Motors— DEXRON-III H, II-D, II, DEXRON; 9986195; Type A, Suffix A (TASA), Honda— ATF-Z1, ATF DW-1, (except in CVTs), Hyundai— SP-II, SP-III, Idemitsu— K17, Infiniti— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Isuzu— Genuine, Kia— All specifications, Lexus— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Mazda— ATF M-V, Mitsubishi—Diamond SP-II, SP-III, Nissan— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Saab— Transmax J, Subaru— All specifications, Toyota— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Volvo— All specifications, Various (Aisin-Warner transmissions)— JWS-3309, Various European Vehicles where DEXRON-IIIH, MERCON DEXRON-IIIH or MERCON
Recommended for use in vehicles as indicated: Acura— ATF-Z1 (except in CVTs), Chrysler— ATF+3, ATF+2, ATF+, Ford— MERCON V, MERCON, XT-9QMM5, General Motors— DEXRON-III H, II-D, II, DEXRON; 9986195; Type A, Suffix A (TASA), Honda— ATF-Z1, ATF DW-1, (except in CVTs), Hyundai— SP-II, SP-III, Idemitsu— K17, Infiniti— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Isuzu— Genuine, Kia— All specifications, Lexus— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Mazda— ATF M-V, Mitsubishi—Diamond SP-II, SP-III, Nissan— Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Saab— Transmax J, Subaru— All specifications, Toyota— Type T, T-III, T-IV, Volvo— All specifications, Various (Aisin-Warner transmissions)— JWS-3309, Various European Vehicles where DEXRON-IIIH, MERCON DEXRON-IIIH or MERCON
According to several people. They say it's not synthetic, and if it was full synthetic it would say it on the bottle. That is my belief. I would have to contact manufacture to make sure. They have a version that is full synthetic. I asked a manager once at a Oreilly auto parts store about their universal versions for ATF. She said if it was synthetic, it would say so on the bottle. I would still verify from the manufacture. This is the internet, anybody can say anything.
There is also this: I can't verify if this is true or not:
Is it Synthetic
Answer:
No, Transmax Dex/Merc is not synthetic. A Dexron-IIIH/Mercon ATF does not need to be synthetic to meet these specifications, but it is based on highly refined mineral oil. However, more modern ATF fluids like those meeting GM Dexron-VI or Ford Mercon LV are synthetic as Synthetic oil is required to meet the low temperature and oxidation requirement of these specifications. If one has a vehicle requiring only Dexron-IIH/Mercon and one wishes to use a synthetic ATF, one can use Transmax Full Synthetic MV ATF, which is approved for GM Dexron-VI and Ford Mercon LV.
The newer specifications are back-serviceable to cover the older specs at a higher performance level.
Answer:
No, Transmax Dex/Merc is not synthetic. A Dexron-IIIH/Mercon ATF does not need to be synthetic to meet these specifications, but it is based on highly refined mineral oil. However, more modern ATF fluids like those meeting GM Dexron-VI or Ford Mercon LV are synthetic as Synthetic oil is required to meet the low temperature and oxidation requirement of these specifications. If one has a vehicle requiring only Dexron-IIH/Mercon and one wishes to use a synthetic ATF, one can use Transmax Full Synthetic MV ATF, which is approved for GM Dexron-VI and Ford Mercon LV.
The newer specifications are back-serviceable to cover the older specs at a higher performance level.
That and summitracing has it for sale. They say it is synthetic as well.
There is a youtube video by Pep boys auto. They say it is designed with "Full Synthetic formula"
https://www.castrol.com/en_cc/ccsa/p...tivehicle.html
Manufacturer does not say it is synthetic.
Last edited by plenum; 08-03-2019 at 07:19 AM.