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Timing Belt Question

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  #21  
Old 08-03-2019, 07:57 AM
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OK I just took out some time before going into the garage on my adventure. I called two different dealerships. And they spent some time with me on the phone.

They said obviously the ZF is no longer being made. To use the DW that it is perfectly fine.

The one dealership service guy told me there was a older mechanic there that still owns a 1993. And he has done three different changes with the DW on his 93 accord and has never had an issue that it works perfectly fine.


I’m so confused on what to use. Would have all you guys been using it for the last five or six years?

Heres this with specs, seems like an older fashioned fluid?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

Last edited by Slade; 08-03-2019 at 09:58 AM.
  #22  
Old 08-03-2019, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Slade
OK I just took out some time before going into the garage on my adventure. I called two different dealerships. And they spent some time with me on the phone.

They said obviously the ZF is no longer being made. To use the DW that it is perfectly fine.

The one dealership service guy told me there was a older mechanic there that still owns a 1993. And he has done three different changes with the DW on his 93 accord and has never had an issue that it works perfectly fine.


I’m so confused on what to use. Would have all you guys been using it for the last five or six years?

Heres this with specs, seems like an older fashioned fluid?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Honestly, I think it will be okay to use Honda Genuine Fluid. Nobody has given a clear cut reason or had a bad experience as to why not use it. The only thing someone said it was low viscosity fluid (oh and it's thinner). And even MaxLife is a low viscosity fluid.
Reason why I want to stay away from MaxLife because it says it's a full synthetic. Honda Genuine ATF doesn't say on the bottle that it's a Full Synthetic. I now believe that Honda Genuine Fluid is going to be much more safer than MaxLife. But both will work, and the only danger in using MaxLife is if your transmission fluid is too dirty to begin with.

I know the Canada version of Honda Genuine Fluid says Full Synthetic on the bottle.



Local dealer called tech line..they said PCM in Canada are different and require synthetic ATF. USA dw-1 is not synthetic and they do not recommend running any full or semi synthetic in USA vehicles.


Found this quote also

US definition of "synthetic" if pretty WEAK. A base 3 synthetic oil is just dino oil "modified"..like Mobil one EP used to be (it still may be). The "real" synthetics are Base 4 stock like castrol edge, Amsoil SS...probably many others. So you could be buying a motor oil called "synthetic" that is actually dino based! If you buy a 0w (which I recommend to everyone) I *think* it has to be base 4 as 0w is hard/impossible to attain with dino.


So I do not get it... So if you buy Canada DW1 is syn but if you buy DW1 in the USA its Not even Syn blend??

I dunno, I didn't believe it also... However I even called the local Honda dealer today and asked the sales dept agent if DW1 was synthetic and at first he said he didn't think so, then I was put on hold and he told me it didn't say it anyplace on the bottle that it was in fact synthetic. Then he said with syn fluids being so popular and if it was in fact a syn ATF he didn't see why HONDA would not in fact add that fact to the bottle. So all in all he doesn't think DW1 is synthetic.. I then asked him to ask a tech, I was put on Hold again and he came back and told me that DW1 in the USA is NOT Synthetic and went on to say if it was synthetic it WOULD say so.
Yeah, to me it's a pick between Honda Genuine ATF or Castrol Transmax Import Multivehicle. I'm not going to pick something with full synthetic on the label. I'm going to pick something that is a good brand that is not labeled synthetic.
"The Castrol product meets the JASO-1A specification (which is published, and apparently supported by Japanese OEMs) and its operational viscosity is much closer to that of Z1" <--- This is another reason why I want to use Castrol.
 

Last edited by plenum; 08-03-2019 at 11:59 AM.
  #23  
Old 08-04-2019, 01:49 PM
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OK, I feel like I’m going to start crying. I literally took everything apart, new timing belt, new balancer belt, new tensioner pulley’s, new springs. Even a new water pump.

I put everything back together, which took forever. And the below clip I uploaded to YouTube so you guys could hear it. It has a humming noise at idle, and when I rev it up it sounds like a super charger.

I went exactly by the directions for the self adjusting. And I know I did do it right.

Now I know the timing belt is not too tight, I have another video I can upload if need be, the timing belt definitely has a little bit of slack to it. Although doing the self adjusting the balance belt seem to lose to me. So I tightened it up by feel, I think I made of made it too tight I’m not sure, but it’s somewhat tight. This be the cause of that issue? I put my stethoscope near the timing belt cover and that’s where the sound is.

My second question you cannot get a torque wrench down there on the 14 mm bolt that tightens the tensioner pulleys up.

So I kind of cranked it by hand with the wrench. Could if I tighten that bolt too tight? Causing the tensioner pulleys to make that noise? I’ll admit I cranked it pretty tight. It says 33 foot pound but there is no way of getting to that. So I just hit double wrenched it and crank that is tight as I could. I didn’t know if that could be the cause of the issue is making the bearings scream?

I was going to loosen it back up, even though the motor is all back together, and turn the crank pulley just a couple teeth counter clockwise and read tighten it, but NOT BE Hercules this time and snug it up. But I don’t know if I can do that with everything together if something bad can happen?




.
 
  #24  
Old 08-04-2019, 02:42 PM
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Yeah, it's probably one "tensioner pulleys" Maybe you got the torque right, but it was a bad pulley? Did you test it for play? Did it move back and forth?

Although if it didn't sound like this before you did all of this. I'm thinking maybe you got it wrong. Maybe it is on there way too tight.

Hopefully someone can chime in and help. I have never done this job before.

Check this out , this seems to be great advice

 

Last edited by plenum; 08-04-2019 at 02:54 PM.
  #25  
Old 08-04-2019, 04:39 PM
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I definitely did not make the timing belt to tight but I think I made that balancer belt too tight. And I think I have the bolt to tight for the tensioners.

I hope it don’t hurt anything, but I’m going to try to loosen the tensioner bolt up and turn it counterclockwise a hair and retighten it lighter. Without taking anything apart. I hope it doesn’t make the belts to loose because I will not be able to see them while it’s together.
 
  #26  
Old 08-04-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Slade
I definitely did not make the timing belt to tight but I think I made that balancer belt too tight. And I think I have the bolt to tight for the tensioners.

I hope it don’t hurt anything, but I’m going to try to loosen the tensioner bolt up and turn it counterclockwise a hair and retighten it lighter. Without taking anything apart. I hope it doesn’t make the belts to loose because I will not be able to see them while it’s together.

Yes, check the tensioners. It's most likely the pulley or bearing (not just the belt). I know you don't want to take the cover off again. I think it might be crucial you take your time with this. And a great way to tell if the belts are not over tighten or over loose. Is to find a part of the belt you can grab in, that is near the middle. And try to see if it doesn't turn past a 90 degree angle too much. Like in that video. If it does it too easy than it's loose. If you can even turn the belt to a 90 degree angle, than it's too tight.

I'm wondering if you can take (ultimately if you have to) the valve cover off than take the timing cover off. Then put the valve cover on temporarily. And actually run the car with the timing belt cover off (with the alternator back on of course) I don't think you need the power steering in. And see what it is doing. I'm not sure you can do this.
 

Last edited by plenum; 08-04-2019 at 05:56 PM.
  #27  
Old 08-04-2019, 06:25 PM
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I fixed it!!! Will Post back more information later I’m still in the garage, I loosened up that tensioner bolt, and turn the crank backwards a little bit and tighten it back up .....at not like Hercules this time!! I had to double wrench to get it loose. That was tooooo tight! I snugged it and tightened much lighter this time.

There’s a very slight whine not at idle but it is a very low pitched almost sounds like maybe these are normal for that noise. No more supercharger!!! Sounds good now!!! Ignore any typos I’m a bit older and using my phone lol
 
  #28  
Old 08-04-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Slade
I fixed it!!! Will Post back more information later I’m still in the garage, I loosened up that tensioner bolt, and turn the crank backwards a little bit and tighten it back up .....at not like Hercules this time!! I had to double wrench to get it loose. That was tooooo tight! I snugged it and tightened much lighter this time.

There’s a very slight whine not at idle but it is a very low pitched almost sounds like maybe these are normal for that noise. No more supercharger!!! Sounds good now!!! Ignore any typos I’m a bit older and using my phone lol
Congratulations. Can you post a video, please if you want. I want to hear what it sounds like.

I think I have to replace my alternator after thinking about my pulleys. Because I had my battery go bad two times (It's still under warranty). And I think it's the bearing I found another video <--- sorry I know this off topic. The video watch id on youtube watch?v=ZBIktSdXLsU
My alternator sounds just like that. And a bad bearing on a alternator can cause it to over charge. So it's interesting stuff. I'm learning a lot. Sounds are important on a car. That is the point I'm making.

That whine could come from your alternator or power steering belts as well.
 

Last edited by plenum; 08-04-2019 at 06:33 PM.
  #29  
Old 08-04-2019, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by plenum
Congratulations. Can you post a video, please if you want. I want to hear what it sounds like.

I think I have to replace my alternator after thinking about my pulleys. Because I had my battery go bad two times (It's still under warranty). And I think it's the bearing I found another video <--- sorry I know this off topic. The video watch id on youtube watch?v=ZBIktSdXLsU
My alternator sounds just like that. And a bad bearing on a alternator can cause it to over charge. So it's interesting stuff. I'm learning a lot. Sounds are important on a car. That is the point I'm making.

That whine could come from your alternator or power steering belts as well.

I just uploaded a video right now. For some reason my phone is making it sound MUCH louder than it really is??

I don’t know why. Maybe because of the microphone on the phone.

I think I have my alternator a little too tight. Which I will have to fix. Compare it to my earlier video, it is much quieter now.

 
  #30  
Old 08-04-2019, 09:03 PM
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Great job. I'm thinking about uploading a video myself to compare what mine sounds like to yours. Working on cars is such a pain sometimes. I just want to make sure you did everything right. Those belts do last a long time although. I remember replacing my alternator belt and power steering belt. My old ones were good. I didn't need to change it. And to find out, that my alternator belt is squeaking it maybe the pulley or it maybe the bearing is a bummer (And no it's not because I don't have it to loose, I had a battery fail 2 times, I suspect it's the alternator). And it's a huge risk. But it's a huger risk for a timing belt, because that is part of the engine. I think I recall someone saying that they had run their original honda accord timing belt for 350,000 miles. Which is pushing it. I remember Eric the car guy saying if you have honda spark plugs wires. Always keep them, they last forever (not that I always take his word for everything, especially about the transmission fluid for older honda accords (lol). But he did say the best alternative is NGK spark plug wires. I think he is just trying to be honest, although.

People on the internet get a little bit too technical sometimes. Always use blue genuine honda coolant!!!!, but the reality is that wasn't even available when our cars 1990-1993 honda accords were built. Don't mix this, don't do this, don't do that. I will stay away from synthetics although. I think cleaner fluids is more important. Aww man, I remember what my car sounded like when it only had 3 spark plug wires working. It was horrible... I knew something was wrong.
 

Last edited by plenum; 08-04-2019 at 09:15 PM.


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