Timing Belt Question
#31
Oh it’s a true confusion party in the internet. Mine has the old style green coolant in it. I used denso spark plugs since the last guy had them already and never installed them.
I bought an Aisin timing belt kit. I have had a lot of luck with them.
I had a problem years ago with an alternator over charging but it was on a old Valiant and it was a nightmare! I hooked up a volt meter and it was charging like 16 volts at idle.
While under the hood with the meter I got lucky!
I started moving wires around, and while doing that. The meter dropped to 13.8-14.2 while I was shaking some wires! I found the short and replaced the wire. That was pure luck though.
I hate electrical issues. I truly do!
I bought an Aisin timing belt kit. I have had a lot of luck with them.
I had a problem years ago with an alternator over charging but it was on a old Valiant and it was a nightmare! I hooked up a volt meter and it was charging like 16 volts at idle.
While under the hood with the meter I got lucky!
I started moving wires around, and while doing that. The meter dropped to 13.8-14.2 while I was shaking some wires! I found the short and replaced the wire. That was pure luck though.
I hate electrical issues. I truly do!
#32
Oh it’s a true confusion party in the internet. Mine has the old style green coolant in it. I used denso spark plugs since the last guy had them already and never installed them.
I bought an Aisin timing belt kit. I have had a lot of luck with them.
I had a problem years ago with an alternator over charging but it was on a old Valiant and it was a nightmare! I hooked up a volt meter and it was charging like 16 volts at idle.
While under the hood with the meter I got lucky!
I started moving wires around, and while doing that. The meter dropped to 13.8-14.2 while I was shaking some wires! I found the short and replaced the wire. That was pure luck though.
I hate electrical issues. I truly do!
I bought an Aisin timing belt kit. I have had a lot of luck with them.
I had a problem years ago with an alternator over charging but it was on a old Valiant and it was a nightmare! I hooked up a volt meter and it was charging like 16 volts at idle.
While under the hood with the meter I got lucky!
I started moving wires around, and while doing that. The meter dropped to 13.8-14.2 while I was shaking some wires! I found the short and replaced the wire. That was pure luck though.
I hate electrical issues. I truly do!
The girl that I was talking about the transmission fluid was everything on point that I researched on the internet about it. It all comes down to what the year of the car is. She was super smart. She also mentioned never to use machine to flush your older cars to get old transmission fluid out. She said that it was alright to just drain and refill 3 times, that's okay. She said she used the same stuff as I do as well. Amazing! She admitted that it was expensive doing it this way.
Last edited by plenum; 08-04-2019 at 10:03 PM.
#33
Are you using the Castrol Multi Import? Honda/Toyota etc? I put the Honda DW in yesterday, but only drove about 12 mile.
I would honestly hook a multi meter up to your battery, and put it on volts. Start the car, and move the wiring around first that’s going to your alternator. “Watch your fingers”. Keep moving that wiring around and watch your volts to see if they change, like a big drop!
I would honestly hook a multi meter up to your battery, and put it on volts. Start the car, and move the wiring around first that’s going to your alternator. “Watch your fingers”. Keep moving that wiring around and watch your volts to see if they change, like a big drop!
#34
The Denso plugs will be fine. As for adding to the confusion, both my 99 Accord and my wife's 00 Accord run green coolant (PEAK brand). They both had it already in when I bought them. My wife has put over 20K miles on it since we got it. No issues other than te old water pump springing a leak 6 months after we got it (I used an Aisin pump and belt kit to fix it).
#35
The Denso plugs will be fine. As for adding to the confusion, both my 99 Accord and my wife's 00 Accord run green coolant (PEAK brand). They both had it already in when I bought them. My wife has put over 20K miles on it since we got it. No issues other than te old water pump springing a leak 6 months after we got it (I used an Aisin pump and belt kit to fix it).
But I’m curious of how loose the belts ended up. I dread taking it all apart again though and I’m probably being paranoid.
I should have started it up for about 30 seconds with the covers off and seen how it looked. While it was apart.
#36
One way to judge, and this probably applies after a new belt has had a hundred miles to stretch:
The long span of the belt is the one closest to the radiator. You only have to remove the upper timing cover. Take that part of the belt & twist it with your fingers (no tools or superhuman strength). It should twist 90-degrees or a little less.
The timing belt with its teeth, isn't supposed to be TIGHT like an alternator belt. It doesn't rely on friction to drive the camshaft. But if it's too loose (twists more than 90-degrees) then it risks skipping teeth. This is just a little trick to judge whether the springs & your technique have been OK.
I don't know about the balance-shaft belt. I suppose if you can reach down to that belt, you could press on it to judge whether it's about the same tension??
The long span of the belt is the one closest to the radiator. You only have to remove the upper timing cover. Take that part of the belt & twist it with your fingers (no tools or superhuman strength). It should twist 90-degrees or a little less.
The timing belt with its teeth, isn't supposed to be TIGHT like an alternator belt. It doesn't rely on friction to drive the camshaft. But if it's too loose (twists more than 90-degrees) then it risks skipping teeth. This is just a little trick to judge whether the springs & your technique have been OK.
I don't know about the balance-shaft belt. I suppose if you can reach down to that belt, you could press on it to judge whether it's about the same tension??
#37
One way to judge, and this probably applies after a new belt has had a hundred miles to stretch:
The long span of the belt is the one closest to the radiator. You only have to remove the upper timing cover. Take that part of the belt & twist it with your fingers (no tools or superhuman strength). It should twist 90-degrees or a little less.
The timing belt with its teeth, isn't supposed to be TIGHT like an alternator belt. It doesn't rely on friction to drive the camshaft. But if it's too loose (twists more than 90-degrees) then it risks skipping teeth. This is just a little trick to judge whether the springs & your technique have been OK.
I don't know about the balance-shaft belt. I suppose if you can reach down to that belt, you could press on it to judge whether it's about the same tension??
The long span of the belt is the one closest to the radiator. You only have to remove the upper timing cover. Take that part of the belt & twist it with your fingers (no tools or superhuman strength). It should twist 90-degrees or a little less.
The timing belt with its teeth, isn't supposed to be TIGHT like an alternator belt. It doesn't rely on friction to drive the camshaft. But if it's too loose (twists more than 90-degrees) then it risks skipping teeth. This is just a little trick to judge whether the springs & your technique have been OK.
I don't know about the balance-shaft belt. I suppose if you can reach down to that belt, you could press on it to judge whether it's about the same tension??
#39
One way to judge, and this probably applies after a new belt has had a hundred miles to stretch:
The long span of the belt is the one closest to the radiator. You only have to remove the upper timing cover. Take that part of the belt & twist it with your fingers (no tools or superhuman strength). It should twist 90-degrees or a little less.
The timing belt with its teeth, isn't supposed to be TIGHT like an alternator belt. It doesn't rely on friction to drive the camshaft. But if it's too loose (twists more than 90-degrees) then it risks skipping teeth. This is just a little trick to judge whether the springs & your technique have been OK.
I don't know about the balance-shaft belt. I suppose if you can reach down to that belt, you could press on it to judge whether it's about the same tension??
The long span of the belt is the one closest to the radiator. You only have to remove the upper timing cover. Take that part of the belt & twist it with your fingers (no tools or superhuman strength). It should twist 90-degrees or a little less.
The timing belt with its teeth, isn't supposed to be TIGHT like an alternator belt. It doesn't rely on friction to drive the camshaft. But if it's too loose (twists more than 90-degrees) then it risks skipping teeth. This is just a little trick to judge whether the springs & your technique have been OK.
I don't know about the balance-shaft belt. I suppose if you can reach down to that belt, you could press on it to judge whether it's about the same tension??
#40
Yup, the first time I did a Honda timing belt job, I must have rolled the engine over 6 different times just trying to make sure I did it right. And when I did my 2nd one, it was an F22B without VTEC. So I literally did the same thing, spinning the engine over multiple times. The 3rd belt change was different, as I first had to reset everything (the crank bolt came out and wore the key groove out, and needed a new harmonic balancer/lower pulley). I went thru the trouble, because I wanted to make sure the engine was OK. It did have shoe polish on the windshield stating "Needs motor". It really needed the timing reset and a lower pulley. After I was sure the engine was OK, I put an Aisin timing belt kit in it, along with a retainer clip for the balance shaft seal. The 4th Honda belt I did, was for a Civic, which was the easiest of them all...just 1 belt. I still spun them all multiple times just to make sure everything was kosher.