I am redoing the head gasket on my accord and I'm wondering how the timing belt tensioner nut that sticks out of the lower cover works. I was able to slide the belt off the cam gear without to much effort so I think it may be to loose. I don't want to have to take off the lower cover if I don't have to. I tried to turn the tensioner and it was extremely tight. I was scared to force it. How hard is it usually torqued.

 

Tensioner lock nut can be difficult to loosen due to it's position. I've found that using a 14mm closed end installed from wheel well and rapping firmly w/ a 3-lb hammer from wheel well does the job to loosen. It's a normal CCW to loose nut. Nut only needs to be firmly tight (perhaps 20 ft-lbs?). There is a torque spec, but I don't have it w/ me. No room for a torque wrench in any case.

During re-installation, you may need to tension the timing belt by hand to force the tensioner to the loose position and then lock the tensioner lock nut to create/hold enough slack to re-engage timing belt on the camshaft.

I hope you have camshaft and crankshaft precisely at TDC#1, which you must exactly rematch on installation. You must also be careful not to turn crankshaft at any point before reinstallation of timing belt. Most remove timing belt completely during head gasket project, and do a re-alignment of crankshaft and camshaft.

good luck

 

I'm guessing you are actually replacing the Valve cover gasket;
To re-tension the T-belt; loosen off the tensioner nut, turn the crank 1/4 turn Counter Clockwise, retighten the tensioner nut.
Then turn the crank around again to bring every thing back to TDC and make sure all the timing marks all line up.

 

Unfortunately it is the head gasket. I did it 3 weeks ago without having it checked for warpage and it failed after a week.It looked good with my carpenters square the first time. Not exactly the right tool to use for something so delicate. The machine shop took off 13 thousands and pressure tested it this time. From what I read under 5 thousands is the limit for warpage. I'm slapping it together next week after the parts come in. Wish me luck. I may be back with more questions. Thanks for all the help. This is the best forum Iv'e been on so far when it comes to tech questions.

 

The first head gasket I ever replaced was on a Mitsubishi in-line 6-cylinder in a late 80's Plymouth Voyager. It hadn't overheated, so I thought I could get away w/o shaving the head. I also got to do the job a 2nd time. Thereafter, I've always had the head shaved, and so far no further repeat jobs.

If you pull the timing belt, read the warning about tensioner mounting and be sure to enage the tensioner on the pivot stud.

good luck