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Transmission Codes - action to take?

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  #1  
Old 07-11-2011 | 10:39 AM
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Default Transmission Codes - action to take?

Forgive me if this information is elsewhere. I couldn't find it in the DIY section or here with "Search this Forum".

Symptoms:
My 500 dolla special 1990 Accord shifts as if it's in Sport mode but I don't think it is. It eventually goes into 4th. Plus it seems to not want to kick down a gear when I take my foot off the gas and coast. The previous owner mangled the Sport Mode button and wires so "S" light is not a good indicator.

Diagnostics:

No codes via CEL or S light on dash.

Removed and inspected the 2 sets of solenoids on the front of the transmission. Shift sensor and I forget the other ones name - lockdown maybe. What I can see looks fine.

Removed negative battery cable for a minute and removed 7.5a backup/radio fuse in under-hood fuse box.

The car wouldn't start after these 2 things. It eventually did but that may be a red herring and this is about the Transmission codes.

After a cruise around the block during which it seemed to shift a little better I jumpered the service port leads.

"S" light or LED on what must be the Transmission Control Unit on passenger foot area blinks codes 1, 2, 7, 8. These codes directly correlate to the 2 solenoid valve sensor things I had removed and inspected.

My questions are:
Does the fact that the codes are coming up mean that the solenoids need to be replaced?
Do I need to do some voltmeter testing on the plugs that the solenoids plug into?
Or should I pull the TCU to inspect for damaged components?

Thanks guys,
Rob
 
  #2  
Old 07-11-2011 | 11:13 AM
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the solenoids are most likely the prob. they tend to go bad on our gen accords.
Test them and if they are bad I have working set I can sell you from my old trans be4 I did my 5 speed swap. I will let them go fairly cheap....just let me know if your intrested. Send me a PM if you are
 
  #3  
Old 07-11-2011 | 11:20 AM
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Thanks, I just might be. How do I test the ones I've got first?

Well I know what step zero is, which is "go buy a multimeter", but unsure how to test them other than reading the blink codes.
 
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Old 07-11-2011 | 11:33 AM
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The way I have always tested them is by hooking them up to my bat. and if they click if they do they should be good. But I don't remember the volts they are suposta push out when testing them with the meter....
 
  #5  
Old 07-11-2011 | 11:35 AM
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That's even easier. Just run a wire from one lead in the solenoid plug to the pos and one to the neg, or ground to the block? I can do that.
 
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Old 07-11-2011 | 11:40 AM
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yeah the pos and neg. on the BAT. NOT THE CAR.
 
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Old 07-11-2011 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by g22cd5
The way I have always tested them is by hooking them up to my bat. and if they click if they do they should be good. But I don't remember the volts they are suposta push out when testing them with the meter....
This is the best answer for this problem..and if some one out there knows the volts...please put it in soon as you see it..

WheelBrokerAng
 
  #8  
Old 07-11-2011 | 12:43 PM
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The solenoids use 12V. There may be a screen on the solenoid to clean.

good luck
 
  #9  
Old 07-11-2011 | 09:32 PM
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TX, yes there is. Along with the screen, check/clean the solenoids themselves....The below might help as well.

Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.

Then, when was the fluid last changed and what type (Honda DW1 or Z1, I hope) was used.

Then these also can/will build up corrosion at the connectors, so while testing them be sure both sides of the connector(s) are clean.
 
  #10  
Old 07-12-2011 | 06:31 PM
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Thanks for the help. That link is why I took the solenoids off to inspect them when I wasn't getting any error codes, but I guess I mentioned that in a different thread. One thing he doesn't tell you is how to take them apart to inspect the solenoids themselves. He just shows a pic of them in pieces.


Anyway I tested them by attaching power from the battery as suggested and the clicked. The lower ones didn't click as loud but they still clicked. Those are the shift solenoids, correct? Should they act identically to the upper ones?

Thanks Guys
 



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