Red arrow is 500. Green arrow is the peg where the gauge rests. Kinda like that's where the tach needle stays until you get to about 400.

Should be OK to adjust spark timing while the IACV is unplugged. In fact, that might help you get the base idle more easily when you can adjust both.

 

alright gentlemen, that is assuming, names sound like guys

i think i have a serious timing issue
when i can get the idle to 750-800 with iacv unplugged, i go for timing light, rotated dizzy all the way to on side, (toward the cab) only getting half way between white mark and red mark. actually, i cant even see the red mark yet.

how would one go about fixing this situation?

this pic is very elemntary, but the red circle is all i get out of the window with dizzy all the way one direction.

 

safe to move timing belt a tooth either direction?

 

Are you checking the timing with the "service connector" jumped? If not the ecu is adjusting the timing as you are checking/adjusting....so you will be fighting each other.

Also, if the car is to op temp and you cover the lower port and the idle went down...just me but I'm thinking the FITV needs to be cleaned and adjusted....sounds like it is not closing off.

 

okay, i will clean the fitv in a couple of days when i can get gaskets. i will adjust now.
so what is supposed to happen when i cover the hole?

and yes i am using the jumper while doing timing, was wondering why your supposed to, thanks.

 

When the engine is warmed up, you should have no air going through the lower port that is controlled by the FITV. If air is leaking and you plug that leak, the idle should stabilize. It will probably be lower too.

Checking timing with that service connector jumped stops the engine computer from either advancing/retarding the timing while you try to adjust it.

 

oh wow, so ive got some major vacuum leak then, through the fitv. would it be broken if its just letting air through? i dont know exactly how they work, but if its not closing that sound broken, like if it was just needing cleaning wouldn't it not let any air through? im still gonna clean it, just wondering.


and not sure if i need to start a new thread for this, different questions

my timing belt is wobbly, would that cause rough idle?

also, im wondering if theres a way to check my tach to make sure its measuring correctly, i meet some cool dude when i was working in my car, (parked in the streets of seattle) he was saying it looked like it was idling super low like a few hundred when tach said 8. not sure if he knew what he was talkin about, but its does seem low to me, i can actually count how many times the tach spins around.

could u guys tell over a vid?

oh yeah, and thanks again, input is really helping. ive delt with the car running like this for a couple years now, time to fix

 

You mention timing belt... Don't just move it a tooth... Check the cam timing marks to be sure where you are. You'll have to remove the upper timing cover. Look for the 2 dimples out at the camshaft sprocket teeth. They line up with the top surface of the head. The "UP" arrow never seems to be perfectly straight up.

 

well i cleaned the fitv, was not that dirty. also was already snug down.

bottom hole still got a ton of air goin through, plugged and engine dies way down.

any other suggestions? ive got no clue what to do next

 

ill have to wait a day or two to be able to adjust my cam and all that, cant really jack the car up and take that stuff on when its parked on the street down here.

but i did do all that last year, replaced water pump and timing belt, double checked all of the marks, even had a honda buddy triple check it for me. just wondering if it could be off, like a tooth. or what do i have to do to get those ignition timing marks back on track?